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That recipe is actually a variation on the classic "trinity of oils" recipe: 33.3% each of OO, PO, and CO. In this version, the shea replaces palm, and the CO is lowered so the soap isn't as drying to the skin. I like using a lower SF, usually 2-3%, which reduces soap scum, and helps the soap lather more easily. But it's really a personal preference. As a newer soapmaker, you may want to start with 5% to have a margin of error.You can use any lye concentration you'd like. More water will give you more time to reach trace, which is great for swirls. It will also be more likely to give you glycerin rivers and soda ash. Since OO is already notoriously slow to trace, and because I like to unmold sooner, I tend to use higher lye concentrations.Correct, if you use sodium citrate, you don't need any lye adjustment. Citric acid is the ingredient that reacts with lye to become sodium citrate, and thus requires additional lye.
That recipe is actually a variation on the classic "trinity of oils" recipe: 33.3% each of OO, PO, and CO. In this version, the shea replaces palm, and the CO is lowered so the soap isn't as drying to the skin. I like using a lower SF, usually 2-3%, which reduces soap scum, and helps the soap lather more easily. But it's really a personal preference. As a newer soapmaker, you may want to start with 5% to have a margin of error.
You can use any lye concentration you'd like. More water will give you more time to reach trace, which is great for swirls. It will also be more likely to give you glycerin rivers and soda ash. Since OO is already notoriously slow to trace, and because I like to unmold sooner, I tend to use higher lye concentrations.
Correct, if you use sodium citrate, you don't need any lye adjustment. Citric acid is the ingredient that reacts with lye to become sodium citrate, and thus requires additional lye.
