Soaprecipe free from palmoil, soywax & animalfats

[phstandard]

Hydrogenated soy wax cannot be eco-labeled, I don't want to use palm oil, nor animal fat.

Do you have any suggestions for an oil composition free from these that still lasts for many showers? Shea butter is a given, but that will only do so much.
Have you ever tried a recipe like this that worked well?

 

[Ephemerella]

Why not look into a long-cured Olive Oil soap, like castile?

 

[justsomeguy]

ZNSC

Enjoy

 

[AliOop]

I make a lot of ZNSB that is very popular with a couple of friends: 75% OO, 20% CO, and 5% castor oil.

Another very nice soap is 45% OO, 30% shea butter, 20% CO, and 5% castor.

 

[phstandard]

I make a lot of ZNSB that is very popular with a couple of friends: 75% OO, 20% CO, and 5% castor oil.

Another very nice soap is 45% OO, 30% shea butter, 20% CO, and 5% castor.

Ah, the ZNSB version of ZNSC, but with 20 % coconut and 5 % castor. Do you still use faux water and 0 % superfat for that one?

ZNSC

Enjoy

Thank you! I will definately give this one a try!!

 

[AliOop]

Ah, the ZNSB version of ZNSC, but with 20 % coconut and 5 % castor. Do you still use faux water and 0 % superfat for that one?

Yes, I sure do, except that I don't make the faux seawater separately. I use the calculations in this thread to dissolve the correct percentages of salt and bicarb in the additional batch water.

I also add goat milk powder at 1-2% of oils. It makes a very nice soap. My skin doesn't get itchy or tight with this recipe, like it usually does with high-OO soaps.

EDIT: I also tend to stick with a 40% lye solution, which I believe is a little higher than the original recipe. That's my normal lye concentration, so I'm used to the math (which helps me not make silly math errors).

 

[phstandard]

I make a lot of ZNSB that is very popular with a couple of friends: 75% OO, 20% CO, and 5% castor oil.

Another very nice soap is 45% OO, 30% shea butter, 20% CO, and 5% castor.

And for the 45 % OO, 30 % shea butter 20 % CO and 5 % castor version ...

What do I put for liquid to lye ratio? And if I use 1,5 % sodium citrate, do I need to add lye for that? It's already a sodium, so that won't be needed, right?
And superfat?

 

[AliOop]

And for the 45 % OO, 30 % shea butter 20 % CO and 5 % castor version ...

And superfat?

That recipe is actually a variation on the classic "trinity of oils" recipe: 33.3% each of OO, PO, and CO. In this version, the shea replaces palm, and the CO is lowered so the soap isn't as drying to the skin. I like using a lower SF, usually 2-3%, which reduces soap scum, and helps the soap lather more easily. But it's really a personal preference. As a newer soapmaker, you may want to start with 5% to have a margin of error.

What do I put for liquid to lye ratio?

You can use any lye concentration you'd like. More water will give you more time to reach trace, which is great for swirls. It will also be more likely to give you glycerin rivers and soda ash. Since OO is already notoriously slow to trace, and because I like to unmold sooner, I tend to use higher lye concentrations.

And if I use 1,5 % sodium citrate, do I need to add lye for that? It's already a sodium, so that won't be needed, right?

Correct, if you use sodium citrate, you don't need any lye adjustment. Citric acid is the ingredient that reacts with lye to become sodium citrate, and thus requires additional lye.

 

[phstandard]

That recipe is actually a variation on the classic "trinity of oils" recipe: 33.3% each of OO, PO, and CO. In this version, the shea replaces palm, and the CO is lowered so the soap isn't as drying to the skin. I like using a lower SF, usually 2-3%, which reduces soap scum, and helps the soap lather more easily. But it's really a personal preference. As a newer soapmaker, you may want to start with 5% to have a margin of error.


You can use any lye concentration you'd like. More water will give you more time to reach trace, which is great for swirls. It will also be more likely to give you glycerin rivers and soda ash. Since OO is already notoriously slow to trace, and because I like to unmold sooner, I tend to use higher lye concentrations.


Correct, if you use sodium citrate, you don't need any lye adjustment. Citric acid is the ingredient that reacts with lye to become sodium citrate, and thus requires additional lye.

Awesome! I'll try this with 40 % lye concentration, when my son decides to fall asleep.

Thank you very much. And I guess it should be fine to use:
1,5 % sodium citrate
1,5 % sugar dissolved in liq
1,5 % sea salt dissoved in liq
3 % kaolin clay
2 % rice bran flour

Anything you'd remove? Perhaps the salt?

Up until now I've made very hard soaps. I tried some SW soaps and they are definately long lasting, rock hard and smooth in surface! But its a PAIN to workup a lather. So I have come to understand that hardness is not necessarily

 

[AliOop]

Awesome! I'll try this with 40 % lye concentration, when my son decides to fall asleep.

Thank you very much. And I guess it should be fine to use:
1,5 % sodium citrate
1,5 % sugar dissolved in liq
1,5 % sea salt dissoved in liq
3 % kaolin clay
2 % rice bran flour

Anything you'd remove? Perhaps the salt?

Up until now I've made very hard soaps. I tried some SW soaps and they are definately long lasting, rock hard and smooth in surface! But its a PAIN to workup a lather. So I have come to understand that hardness is not necessarily

The ingredients look fine to me. You do want to dissolve the sodium citrate in the liquid, along with the sugar and sea salt.

Also, with that much clay and flour, you may want to use a bit more water after all, as they will both absorb a good bit of it.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

May I also suggest that you read this post that I just wrote today? It’s a slightly different way to think about formulating soap recipes.