Soap
Marr said:
I keep my cleansing below 17 and have a minimum conditioning of 59. Most of my bars have a conditioning # of 60-61. Any changes to that and it's drying to my skin and to my testers skin. Once I have the cleansing and conditioning factors - I make a test batch and tweak the hardness if necessary.
I sound like I am dissing soapcalc and I am not. It's my favorite. I find these things to be true with all of the calculators that I have used so far. Soapcalc has other numbers that I pay close attention to as well. Such as the palmitic and oleic numbers. Many find high palmitic numbers to be drying. I make soaps with low palmitic and high oleic because they are more conditioning.
Marr
I don't think you sound like you're dissing soapcalc at all. But I will add this — WARNING: I'm a newbie, so I'm not trying to be an expert. I'm still learning, and may change my position later down the road.
Paul "Soapmakerman" taught me something very valuable and interesting about soapmaking. He said, "It's all about oil SYNERGY". That stuck with me, and I'm finding that to be very true. Meaning, that the "numbers" are guides. But just because a soap shows "60" as the conditioning # doesn't necessarily mean that it will prove to be more conditioning, than a soap with "56". It could depend on the the oils used — the "synergy" of those oils and how they work together, to make a bar of soap.
The soapmaker who inspired me most to start making my own soap, shared that she keeps her cleansing number @ 21 or below. So, I started with the goal of having a cleansing number no higher, and not too much lower than 20.
I personally prefer the highest cleansing — 19 or 20, and a good conditioning number. I want soap to
clean primarily. It's "soap", first and foremost.
Obviously, I don't want it to strip my skin and make it dry and itchy, but if the soap does all the cleaning AND conditioning, then what would I need all those wonderful butters, lotions and skin "smoothies" for? The soap preps the skin for the "conditioning" products that will
remain on the skin — lotions, creams and butters. It's like the soap cleans without stripping, and the lotion takes it over the edge — I don't sell soap yet, but I'm a "salesperson" at heart. So, if I'm trying to sell a bar of soap, and a tub of butter, I have to create the "need" for BOTH.
For hardness, I try to get to between 40 and 42. I'm cool, at that point.
Now, this is MY preference — and I'm probably one of the rare folks who look at it this way. When I begin selling soap, I will probably have to adjust my recipes, for the masses.
I typed a "novella". Sorry also!