Soap Router

[Mobjack Bay]

I’m happy, happy, happy with my new soap router from Wild Plantanica. I know it’s going to be some time before I get a chance to try all of the different key bits, so I organized them by types and traced them to create a Key to Key Bits, using what I hope is the same nomenclature used for router bits . I added photos of my drawings and the bits below along with photos of soaps beveled with the few I’ve tried. Feel free to add photos of your beveled edges and any tip & tricks you want to share.




The first edge was done with what I’m calling a classic chamfer bevel with fine bead detail (page 1, row 2) and the second one with the cove on the middle of page 2. Based on the website, I think there are two cove edges available, with this being the larger one. (ETA: I just found the smaller cove bit in another room ) This batch of soap was routed/beveled weeks after it was made. I used more than my usual amount of sugar and a lower lye concentration in this soap compared with my usual recipe. It hasn’t hardened all the way, but it still took several passes to get the edges cleanly cut. I learned that it’s possible to make several passes without over-beveling the edge.



These next edges are the beaded chamfer again and the stepped chamfer on the upper left soap, also from the second row of page 1. This batch had some issues at the edges due to a weakish emulsion and the router totally saved the day. I like this combo with the larger bevel on what I want to be the ”top” face of the bar and the smaller bevel on the “bottom” face. The batch was routed when it was still a little soft because I was worried that the crumbly edges would break off If I waited. Luckily that only happened on one bar from the worst corner.

 

[AliOop]

This is amazing info! I hereby nominate you as the official SMF Soapy Tool Tester.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

This is amazing info! I hereby nominate you as the official SMF Soapy Tool Tester.

Can you tell that I spent years identifying small invertebrates using taxonomic keys? I love this router so much that I forgot I wanted to make kaleidoscope soap today!

 

[AliOop]

... with your round pull-throughs, while you are waiting for your square ones to arrive. Right?

 

[Mobjack Bay]

I was able to put a nice edge on round soaps using the flatter of the two round over bits shown on the bottom of the first page. Following the directions included with the router, I aligned/centered the soap with the bit and turned it clockwise while holding the soap firmly against the bit. The hand movement is just like opening closing a jar, and the soap spins in a circle. The lighter pink soap is made with 3% salt which didn’t cause any issues.

 

[TheGecko]

I received one from another soap maker and I found that 1) it works best with soap that has been cured for several weeks. I tried fresh soap and it just tore up the sides. 2) Put paper under the soap because even well cured soap will leave drag marks. I just use strips of baking paper from the local Dollar store.

 

[Sandiebrown65]

So I just checked out the router on Wild Plantanica's web site. They don't deliver to Australia

 

[Mobjack Bay]

I received one from another soap maker and I found that 1) it works best with soap that has been cured for several weeks. I tried fresh soap and it just tore up the sides. 2) Put paper under the soap because even well cured soap will leave drag marks. I just use strips of baking paper from the local Dollar store.

Are you laying the paper down just off to the side of the key bit? It sounds like a good idea. My soaps have been pretty firm because I use 40% lye concentration, but the softest batch did end up with some faint marks on the faces.

 

[Sandiebrown65]

So I just checked out the router on Wild Plantanica's web site. They don't deliver to Australia

Ok, just found her on Etsy. She delivers to Aust through etsy but postage is almost $50 which makes it totally unaffordable :-(

 

[TheGecko]

Are you laying the paper down just off to the side of the key bit? It sounds like a good idea. My soaps have been pretty firm because I use 40% lye concentration, but the softest batch did end up with some faint marks on the faces.

Yes...I leave just enough room for the beveling. I was leaving drag marks even with well cured soap...I'm talking soap I make last Fall. Not only does the paper eliminate the makes, it makes pushing the soap easier and quicker.

Ok, just found her on Etsy. She delivers to Aust through etsy but postage is almost $50 which makes it totally unaffordable :-(

You need to look at the overall value of the equipment. If it just did a single straight cut across the corner of the bar, I would say that it wasn't worth it. Heck, I could probably get my husband to make me something. But there are multiple options available, it is a well-made piece of equipment and can add value to your soaps.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

I discovered today that it’s easier to cut a deep complex bevel if I do a shallow one first because there’s less soap to remove on the second pass and less resistance. I lined the two key bits up to make sure that the first bit would not cut into the body of soap needed for the second cut.

I’m curious about the optimal time for beveling with the router. I’m sure it’s recipe dependent. My soaps are fairly firm when they come out of the mold, in part because I’m using 40% lye concentration. I don’t want them to get too hard to make the deeper cuts, but I think they are going to need more than a week especially now that it’s summer and a bit humid even with the AC and a dehumidifier running.

 

[dibbles]

I discovered today that it’s easier to cut a deep complex bevel if I do a shallow one first because there’s less soap to remove on the second pass and less resistance. I lined the two key bits up to make sure that the first bit would not cut into the body of soap needed for the second cut.

I’m curious about the optimal time for beveling with the router. I’m sure it’s recipe dependent. My soaps are fairly firm when they come out of the mold, in part because I’m using 40% lye concentration. I don’t want them to get too hard to make the deeper cuts, but I think they are going to need more than a week especially now that it’s summer and a bit humid even with the AC and a dehumidifier running.

Have you tried beveling an older bar? I can bevel at 4 weeks without issue, but my lye concentration isn't normally that steep.
ETA: good tip to make two passes - thanks!

 

[Relle]

Ok, just found her on Etsy. She delivers to Aust through etsy but postage is almost $50 which makes it totally unaffordable :-(

I agree, just worked it out it will be $170 AUD, way too expensive, when you can get a cheaper planer.
Also the flower discs are $15.34 AUD and it costs $29.45 postage (nearly double to post for a disc that could be put in an envelope.

 

[Sandiebrown65]

I agree, just worked it out it will be $170 AUD, way too expensive, when you can you a cheaper planer.
Also the flower discs are $15.34 AUD and it costs $29.45 postage (nearly double to post for a disc that could be put in an envelope.

Yes, I find the postage on Etsy to be crazy sometimes. I have decided to print my own little beveller and there are also some pull through designs I found that I can print as well. Will see how this one works

 

[Relle]

A lot of places O/S would have more sales if they didn't price gouge the postage. Let me know how you go with the printing.

Yes, I find the postage on Etsy to be crazy sometimes. I have decided to print my own little beveller and there are also some pull through designs I found that I can print as well. Will see how this one works

 

[not_ally]

I’m happy, happy, happy with my new soap router from Wild Plantanica. I know it’s going to be some time before I get a chance to try all of the different key bits, so I organized them by types and traced them to create a Key to Key Bits, using what I hope is the same nomenclature used for router bits . I added photos of my drawings and the bits below along with photos of soaps beveled with the few I’ve tried. Feel free to add photos of your beveled edges and any tip & tricks you want to share.


The first edge was done with what I’m calling a classic chamfer bevel with fine bead detail (page 1, row 2) and the second one with the cove on the middle of page 2. Based on the website, I think there are two cove edges available, with this being the larger one. (ETA: I just found the smaller cove bit in another room ) This batch of soap was routed/beveled weeks after it was made. I used more than my usual amount of sugar and a lower lye concentration in this soap compared with my usual recipe. It hasn’t hardened all the way, but it still took several passes to get the edges cleanly cut. I learned that it’s possible to make several passes without over-beveling the edge.

View attachment 67469View attachment 67470

These next edges are the beaded chamfer again and the stepped chamfer on the upper left soap, also from the second row of page 1. This batch had some issues at the edges due to a weakish emulsion and the router totally saved the day. I like this combo with the larger bevel on what I want to be the ”top” face of the bar and the smaller bevel on the “bottom” face. The batch was routed when it was still a little soft because I was worried that the crumbly edges would break off If I waited. Luckily that only happened on one bar from the worst corner.

View attachment 67471View attachment 67472

I know this is an old post, but I just made a serious attempt to use the Wild Plantanica router I received about a month ago (I've been a little intimidated by all the bits) and remembered that you'd posted on it, @Mobjack Bay. I am really so grateful to have this post as a resource. It is going to take me a while to get the hang of this router, but having your drawings to make sense of the shapes (rather than turning them round and round and scratching my head like a monkey trying to type Hamlet) is incredibly helpful. I'll post soaps routered with keys once I've mastered it enough - I still need to determine the right soap texture/hardness, etc - not to make the router look bad.

ETA: Do you have any tips on beveling round soap? That seems a little tricky. @dibbles, @AliOop, @TheGecko (thanks for the baking paper tip!), I have read posts indicating that you use this router, have you guys done round soaps and have any guidance on them?

 

[Mobjack Bay]

My best advice for routing round soaps is in post #5. You need to turn the soap as if you are screwing a lid on a jar. Imagine the soap spinning around an imaginary center rather than moving in the direction of the arrow.

 

[dibbles]

^^^ What she said

 

[Tammyfarms]

So happy this post has been revived. I may have seen it but I often forget about posts. Seems my brain is full and retaining information is harder than it used to be.
When I first tried my WP beveler I really thought I made a mistake when I purchased it. I was beveling right after unmolding. Now I let my soap cure a little longer and I am happier with it. I think the suggestions in this post are going to make me love it. Thank you all!

 

[not_ally]

Seems my brain is full and retaining information is harder than it used to be.

OMG, it is awful. Constant state of brain fog over here. Getting older is kind of a crazy process, even if you're expecting the changes.

I am going to do a batch just to use with the router keys, numbering each key so that I know which shapes go with which keys. I'll probably have to throw the soap out after I've photographed each key/bars set together because I am figuring that deep black will work the best to show the cuts (I am not a good photographer like @Mobjack Bay, so I think I will have to go to further lengths to get definition in the pictures). I'm assuming that even my bunch of cheerful giftees will draw the line at heavily black-streaked towels.

ETA: just looked at @Mobjack Bay's pics again, the crispness of the cut and the clarity of the pictures, especially the brown marble-ish ones on the bottom, are incredible. I'm sure mine are not going to look like that.