Soap Recipe and Solidifying essences

[Doutor]

Hello guys,

A month ago I've started making soap with a new recipe, which is:
200g Palm Kernel Oil
175g Sunflower oil
150g Castor oil
125g Coconut oil

First, I would like to know what you think about this recipe. What would you change and why.

Secondly, I've had a strange problem. I've tried to make a soap with this recipe and, I've used Eletric Blue pigment and Marine Essence. I solidified so quickly that I didn't had the time to transfer the solution to the mould (it solidified in the mix container). Is it normal? For the essences I've used, Eucalyptus is the better one (doesn't solidify so quickly). What shall I do?

Thanks babe :think:

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I don't know what 'marine essence' is, so I'll leave that part.

Your recipe itself is not balanced- it is 50% cleansing oils and far too much castor. What was the basis for this recipe? What sort of lye discount are you using and how do you find it?

 

[lenarenee]

That recipe is a fast moving recipe - it will solidify quickly.

Palm kernel, coconut and babassu oil are very similar to each other and can be used interchangeably. However most soapers don't use more than 30% of those oils total in their recipe. They strip the skin of it's natural oils. In fact, many soapers here use 15 to 20%.

The amount of castor oil is too high. Castor can speed up trace, and make a sticky soap if used at more than 10%. Most people here recommend castor at 5%.

Here's an example of a tried and true classic soap recipe that would be a better place for you to start:

40% palm oil (not palm kernel) or lard or tallow
35% olive oil
20% coconut oil
5% castor

The temperature of your lye solution and your oils can also speed up the batter if it's too warm. I soap really cool, and I'm not sure what others prefer, but 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) is a good start.

Are essences the same as essential oils?

 

[Doutor]

I don't know what 'marine essence' is, so I'll leave that part.

Your recipe itself is not balanced- it is 50% cleansing oils and far too much castor. What was the basis for this recipe? What sort of lye discount are you using and how do you find it?

About the essence it says "marine breeze"

About the recipe. I used the soap calculator site, and tried to make a recipe good in all characteristics.

Lye discount is superfat? Im using 3% superfat.

 

[Doutor]

That recipe is a fast moving recipe - it will solidify quickly.

Palm kernel, coconut and babassu oil are very similar to each other and can be used interchangeably. However most soapers don't use more than 30% of those oils total in their recipe. They strip the skin of it's natural oils. In fact, many soapers here use 15 to 20%.

The amount of castor oil is too high. Castor can speed up trace, and make a sticky soap if used at more than 10%. Most people here recommend castor at 5%.

Here's an example of a tried and true classic soap recipe that would be a better place for you to start:

40% palm oil (not palm kernel) or lard or tallow
35% olive oil
20% coconut oil
5% castor

The temperature of your lye solution and your oils can also speed up the batter if it's too warm. I soap really cool, and I'm not sure what others prefer, but 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) is a good start.

Are essences the same as essential oils?

Ok thanks, I'll take your advices.
Essences are fragrances, like lavender.

 

[shunt2011]

Your fragrance is likely a fragrance oil and not an essential oil. That's likely part of the issue. Also your recipe at 3% SF is likely to be really drying to your skin and others. I'm one that doesn't mi
D a higher co content but I SF at 8%. And, as others stated too much castor can make a stickier soap though I have gone 10% with no issues. However, I pretty much use only 5%.

 

[snappyllama]

Ditto to everyone's comments.

Some FOs accelerate a lot. Any FO can misbehave, so it's important to read reviews by folks using it in CP. I'm especially cautious with anything "Marine/Sea/Ocean", spicy, and floral scents. To help combat acceleration: use a slow moving recipe, soap cool, do not use big water discounts, put your FO into your oils before adding your lye, mix in your lye just to emulsification, and be ready to get it into your mold ASAP.

 

[Soapmaker145]

You also need to test the pigments/micas you use in your recipe in combination with the FO/EO. Now that I'm using more micas, I find that they accelerate more often than FOs. There is no such thing as an essence. It's an FO, EO or various forms of extracts.

I wouldn't go by the soapcalc numbers when putting a soap recipe together. They are just guidelines. You need to learn about the strength and limitations of various oils and most importantly test how your own skin likes them. There is no universal formula.

 

[Susie]

Also, please go check with the supplier of that "essence" to be sure it is intended for use in CP soap. Some are only intended for other uses, and can give you "soap on a stick".