Also remember @Dean uses a high amount of soy wax, which would make a difference.
I agree with the others that gelling your soaps will help them firm up faster. I use a heating pad and wrap the mold on the pad in a thick blanket rather than use the oven.
I will agree with you then. I’ve not used almond oil in that high of an amount.I've always used AO w/o softening issues, even with low to no soy wax in the recipe. The exception is if I gel or HP. AO may preform differently with heat. I did a 80% AO, no SW, CP recently that was rock hard the next day. I really think its too much water that is causing the softening, which AMD's solution should remedy.
Amd that's a great idea, thank you, I'll do so! And by the way, me as well, just like you do, usually I use around that content of water but with differebnt oils. I've checked a soap recepie that I did last week and I find out that the water content was 38 %, Lye was 27.7 with SF of 10 % and the soap was hard enough for cutting after around 20 hours ( I've attached a foto of that recepie ).I soap with a higher water content (such as used in OP's post) and I can usually cut within 18 hours, however whenever I have used Sweet Almond Oil or Sunflower oil in recipes they take longer to setup, I haven't used a combination of the two in a soap (shocking...) so I would guess it's probably a combination of the oils and the water content. You can preheat your oven to the lowest temp it goes to (For me this is 170°F), turn off your oven, and put your soap in there overnight. This is called CPOP. I do it quite often with a soap that is setting up too slowly for my patience. ... DON'T forget to put a sticky over the controls on the oven so that everyone in the house knows there is soap in the oven.
Dean dear, you use these abbreviations I can hardly understand what you mean... Please explain to meGood tip on CPOP.
I use AO in much higher amts w0 any softness.
I wonder if his water measuring was off.
Dean, what was the amount of water you used for that 80% AO? or, what makes it to be rock hard the day after? I generally want to learn how to harden the soap so it could be of use for long time.I've always used AO w/o softening issues, even with low to no soy wax in the recipe. The exception is if I gel or HP. AO may preform differently with heat. I did a 80% AO, no SW, CP recently that was rock hard the next day. I really think its too much water that is causing the softening, which AMD's solution should remedy.
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Amd that's a great idea, thank you, I'll do so! And by the way, me as well, just like you do, usually I use around that content of water but with differebnt oils. I've checked a soap recepie that I did last week and I find out that the water content was 38 %, Lye was 27.7 with SF of 10 % and the soap was hard enough for cutting after around 20 hours ( I've attached a foto of that recepie ).
Dean dear, you use these abbreviations I can hardly understand what you mean... Please explain to me
Dean, what was the amount of water you used for that 80% AO? or, what makes it to be rock hard the day after? I generally want to learn how to harden the soap so it could be of use for long time.
Dean, as allways, your tips are a gold mine for me! Thank you! By the way, is there a recommended amount of palm oil to use in CP soaping?The rock hard bar used @Zany_in_CO' a faux sea water at 1.7:1.
Don't confuse hardness with longevity. Coconut oil (lauric and myristric acids) makes a hard bar but is soluble. For longevity (insolubility) you need palmitic and/or stearic acids. They also make a bar hard. You are getting those acids from palm.
Thanks dibblesHere you go Menny - this might help with the abbreviations
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/the-acronym-and-abbreviation-definition-thread.51841/
Dean, as allways, your tips are a gold mine for me! Thank you! By the way, is there a recommended amount of palm oil to use in CP soaping?
And I thought the opposite lol.I thought sugars slow down the Lye's sopanification, I wonder if thats the issues here.
Great! My common sense and logic must be in top shape tonight lol@Dawni I think you're right! Sugar makes heat which speeds up saponification. The sugars in honey soaps or milk soaps get hot, which is why some soapers will put those types of soaps in the fridge or freezer. There's a way better explanation than I gave here, but I'm crunched for time so can't go into it. A search on the forum will yield the full answer.
Start out with a soldering iron - its like a pen but just hotI have one more question on another issue so I'll take advantage on this thread and ask you here:
If you want to write the name of your lover for example on the soap, how do you do it?
I've attached a foto of soap that I made and try to write on it. I wrote wite a match and it doesn't look as accurate as I expected...
And I thought the opposite lol.
I thought that since sugars create heat, they'd sort of help gel along in some way and therefore, would harden faster... Not sure how I arrived at that thought though lol
@Dawni I think you're right! Sugar makes heat which speeds up saponification. The sugars in honey soaps or milk soaps get hot, which is why some soapers will put those types of soaps in the fridge or freezer. There's a way better explanation than I gave here, but I'm crunched for time so can't go into it. A search on the forum will yield the full answer.
No, salt will actually make your soap easier to unmold.Dawni and amd, I used 1 tsp of salt as well, is that tsp of salt in addition to the soft oils and the big quantity of water might be one of the reasons to this delay?
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