Red Clay, Green Clay, Bentonite Clay and Kaolin Clay??

[DeeAnna]

I've noticed there's French green clay and there's French green clay. The stuff I got from a B&B supplier (think it was Nature's Garden) is pale green-y gray. Not very excitingly green. The clay I bought at my local food co-op is a definite gray green -- definitely more green than the other, although still a soft shade. It was Frontier brand, for what's worth. I'd buy it in preference to the other for color alone.

 

[Seawolfe]

Not Obsidian - but Bentonite is VERY thirsty - it takes more water than you think it should to make a slurry.

Yes you can pull your water to hydrate your clay as long as you aren't doing a big water discount. I would start with the default water and go from there.

I have seen where people actually strain the clay particles out using a coffee filter so they just get the color, but I never saw the point of it. Like I said, I've never noticed grittiness in my soap.

And yes, I would cut down on the coconut oil a bit if using clay. I would do that before increasing superfat.

FWIW I got my clays at Soap Making Resource.

Thank you so much for the info! My soap now tends to be just a hair on the drying side so i may want to adjust my coconut oil down i'm thinking when i use the clay. What are your thoughts?

I love the pictures! I like softer more natural looking colors, I'm not a fan of the bright neon synthetic looks.



What is different with the Bentonite? What makes it a pain?

 

[kchaystack]

Yeah I think alot of it depends on the actual batch of clay you get. Because this is a 'natural' product (how I hate that term), it is going to have variations in color and texture from batch to batch depending on where the clay came from. It is much harder to get a consistent product when you are not producing it in a lab where you can control all the variables.

 

[cmzaha]

I use clays in some of my soaps for coloring and just add them to my separated batter. I do not find them gritty and have no problem mixing them in batter that is at emulsification. Any thicker trace might be a problem. Be careful with red and rose clays, they only take a dab or you risk a soap that can even stain even old tile and porcelain. It takes very little to color.

 

[Obsidian]

Not Obsidian - but Bentonite is VERY thirsty - it takes more water than you think it should to make a slurry.

Yes, not only does it take a lot of water to make a slurry but it clumps up and takes a bit of work to get blended smooth.

 

[Seawolfe]

Badger Badger Badger

 

[RalphTheMastiff]

Badger Badger Badger

Very cool I'll have to order one!

 

[Steve85569]

Bentonite is used commercially to line well casings and also to seal them in. "Drillers mud" is bentonite clay. How thirsty each type of clay is has to do with the particle size and chemical make up of each clay. Bentonite is the MOST thirsty clay so it is the most difficult to work with. Kaolin is used as a cure for other things ( Kaopectate is mostly kaolin clay).

Most clays can be kept in a slurry of extended periods of time - once a stable slurry has been achieved. Make sure you don't walk away from a bentonite slurry too soon. The stuff can set up in a jar and be very difficult to get out. It really does have a drinking problem.

I knew all those years as a soil mechanic would come in handy somewhere...:twisted:

 

[smengot0]

I use clays (sometimes) in my soaps for the purported benefits. When using clay, I usually add some sort of milk to counter the drying effect.

 

[IrishLass]

I use rose clay, kaolin clay and French green clay in different soaps. I normally use 1 tsp. ppo and mix it directly with a little soap batter before adding to my main batter. I've never had a problem adding it this way and there's never been any grittiness in my soap to speak of. I find it adds a pleasant oomphy 'slip' or 'body' to the lather.


IrishLass