Recipe Help

[gildedgoose]

I am trying to formulate a simple recipe using OO, CO, castor, and Shea but I’m having conflicting research with percentages and then I’m also seeing issues with the recipe I am putting into soapcalc and the longevity (also worried about DOS)… I’m wondering if anyone could give me some input!

Recipe:
OO: 60%
CO: 20%
Castor: 5%
Shea:15%

TIA

 

[AliOop]

Do you have access to cocoa butter, palm, lard, or tallow? Any of those will increase your palmitic and stearic numbers, which will increase the longevity.

My personal favorite out of those would be lard, or a lard/tallow blend, at 30%. Palm would also be ok at 30%. If you are adding cocoa butter, I'd use that to 10-15%. Whatever you choose to sub in, subtract that amount from the OO.

If you are new to soapmaking, try setting the lye concentration at 33% (2:1) and the superfat at 3-4%. That's more than enough to give you a safe margin of error without leaving so much unsaponified oil that it creates a lot of soap scrum, or interferes with lathering.

You could also dissolve some plain table sugar in some of your batch water, before adding the lye. That won't show up in the soap calculator numbers, but it will increase the bubbly lather of your soap. Typical usage rate is 1-2 T per pound of oils.

Good luck, and please show us your creation when it is done!

 

[gildedgoose]

Do you have access to cocoa butter, palm, lard, or tallow? Any of those will increase your palmitic and stearic numbers, which will increase the longevity.

My personal favorite out of those would be lard, or a lard/tallow blend, at 30%. Palm would also be ok at 30%. If you are adding cocoa butter, I'd use that to 10-15%. Whatever you choose to sub in, subtract that amount from the OO.

If you are new to soapmaking, try setting the lye concentration at 33% (2:1) and the superfat at 3-4%. That's more than enough to give you a safe margin of error without leaving so much unsaponified oil that it creates a lot of soap scrum, or interferes with lathering.

You could also dissolve 1-2 T plain table sugar in some of your batch water, before adding the lye. That won't show up in the soap calculator numbers, but it will increase the bubbly lather of your soap. Good luck!

I usually use Tallow in my recipes but I was trying to do a palm-free, tallow/lard-free type of recipe… I’ve been sifting through threads and having issues finding similar problems. I’ve seen people use high OO in their recipes but haven’t addressed the longevity concerns of it.

Editing to add, I am also trying to figure out the right ratios between these. I would prefer to keep CO 20% for sensitive/dry skin… also trying to use what resources I currently have on hand which is why I am using the Shea butter to it’s suggested max %. I don’t have any other butters on hand

 

[AliOop]

I usually use Tallow in my recipes but I was trying to do a palm-free, tallow/lard-free type of recipe… I’ve been sifting through threads and having issues finding similar problems. I’ve seen people use high OO in their recipes but haven’t addressed the longevity concerns of it.

Cocoa butter and soy wax will probably be the best palm-free, vegan options for you then. Cocoa butter at 10-15% will add significant hardness and longevity. I've never used soy wax, but there are some great threads here about using that.

I would also say that the soap calculator doesn't always give the full picture. The people using my handcrafted soap (including me, hahah) care the most about the scent, whether it agrees with their skin, and if it bubbles the way they like. How long it lasts is usually quite far down the list after those top three concerns.

I make exactly one high-OO soap, and cure it about three months. While the bars don't last quite as long as my more balanced blends, no one complains that it melts away fast. The soap agrees with their skin, bubbles really well, and smells great - so they are happy.

All that to say, I'd encourage you to make a small batch of your recipe, as-is or with some cocoa butter and soy wax added. Give it a nice cure, and see what you and your testers think.

 

[gildedgoose]

Cocoa butter and soy wax will probably be the best palm-free, vegan options for you then. Cocoa butter at 10-15% will add significant hardness and longevity. I've never used soy wax, but there are some great threads here about using that.

I would also say that the soap calculator doesn't always give the full picture. The people using my handcrafted soap (including me, hahah) care the most about the scent, whether it agrees with their skin, and if it bubbles the way they like. How long it lasts is usually quite far down the list after those top three concerns.

I make exactly one high-OO soap, and cure it about three months. While the bars don't last quite as long as my more balanced blends, no one complains that it melts away fast. The soap agrees with their skin, bubbles really well, and smells great - so they are happy.

All that to say, I'd encourage you to make a small batch of your recipe, as-is or with some cocoa butter and soy wax added. Give it a nice cure, and see what you and your testers think.

Thank you i appreciate your feedback! I’m going to give it a shot and I will report back!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Recipe:
OO: 60%
CO: 20%
Castor: 5%
Shea:15%

Try the Basic Trinity of Oils recipe with those oils. With an INS Value around 157, it's almost "perfect". Once you master it you can sub one oil for another and tweak it to your preferences. This is one recipe you will want to keep on hand for all types of skin. It is the formula used in popular handcrafted soaps, like Dr. Squatch, that you can buy online.

OO 35% + 5% Castor
CO 25%
SHEA 35%

Recipe Printout of a batch I made for my DIL's father when he could no longer buy it on line because they stopped making it.

 

[gildedgoose]

Thank you!
How is the lather with 35% Shea butter? I was nervous about going higher than 15% just based on what I’ve read

 

[gildedgoose]

Try the Basic Trinity of Oils recipe with those oils. With an INS Value around 157, it's almost "perfect". Once you master it you can sub one oil for another and tweak it to your preferences. This is one recipe you will want to keep on hand for all types of skin. It is the formula used in popular handcrafted soaps, like Dr. Squatch, that you can buy online.

OO 35% + 5% Castor
CO 25%
SHEA 35%

Recipe Printout of a batch I made for my DIL's father when he could no longer buy it on line because they stopped making it.

Thank you!
How is the lather with 35% Shea butter? I was nervous about going higher than 15% just based on what I’ve read

 

[Zany_in_CO]

How is the lather with 35% Shea butter? I was nervous about going higher than 15% just based on what I’ve read

I expect tha lather would be dense and creamy. That leg of the trinity is made with palm, lard, tallow, solid shortening, etc. Shea butter is a good sub for lard, They have almost identical FAs/bar qualities.

I used 67% raw shea butter once to use up some I needed to soap. it was wonderful.

67% SHEA BUTTER CP - INS 155

 

[gildedgoose]

I expect tha lather would be dense and creamy. That leg of the trinity is made with palm, lard, tallow, solid shortening, etc. Shea butter is a good sub for lard, They have almost identical FAs/bar qualities.

I used 67% raw shea butter once to use up some I needed to soap. it was wonderful.

67% SHEA BUTTER CP - INS 155

That’s is what I was hoping you would say! I’m going to try this!

 

[KiwiMoose]

Or you can try @Zany_in_CO 's no-slime castile. I found that to be incredibly long-lasting after it had cured for a year (if you can wait that long?)

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I found that to be incredibly long-lasting after it had cured for a year (if you can wait that long?)

I agree. Thanks for mentioning that. However, I don't think you have to wait that long. I make the 85% OO, 10% CO, 5% Castor variation. I find that I can start using a bar at 2 weeks and it lasts -- while the rest of the batch sits and waits for their turn.

I'm using a 1-year+ bar now. Talk about lasting, I can easily smoosh the last bit of the previous bar onto the new bar with a bit of water -- no waste, no scraps to deal with. It holds its shape to the very end.

The lather seems denser and creamier at this late stage but it's hard for me to say when it "peaks". I'm guessing about 3 months in? Not sure.

 

[gildedgoose]

I made a small batch of that exact recipe of
OO 35%
Castor 5%
CO 25%
Shea 35%
with lye concentrate 35, 5% superfat.
So far very happy with the how it turned out. Will report back after I unmold

 

[KiwiMoose]

Looks lovely!

 

[KiwiMoose]

I agree. Thanks for mentioning that. However, I don't think you have to wait that long. I make the 85% OO, 10% CO, 5% Castor variation. I find that I can start using a bar at 2 weeks and it lasts -- while the rest of the batch sits and waits for their turn.

I'm using a 1-year+ bar now. Talk about lasting, I can easily smoosh the last bit of the previous bar onto the new bar with a bit of water -- no waste, no scraps to deal with. It holds its shape to the very end.

The lather seems denser and creamier at this late stage but it's hard for me to say when it "peaks". I'm guessing about 3 months in? Not sure.

Yes - I use that variation and I'm sure it was harder and long lasting before then too, but it's just that I remember one bar I gave to my sister during the lockdowns for covid. Her husband had trouble with very dry hands from using commercial soap all the time (remember all the hand washing we did after touching anything?) and so she wanted a gentle soap. I had a bar of ZNSC which was a year old and I gave it to her - and they still had it at their handbasin ONE YEAR after that, going strong! Mind you, It was a very big bar I gave them - about 160g. The lahter was very good too.

 

[janesathome]

I agree. Thanks for mentioning that. However, I don't think you have to wait that long. I make the 85% OO, 10% CO, 5% Castor variation. I find that I can start using a bar at 2 weeks and it lasts -- while the rest of the batch sits and waits for their turn.

I'm using a 1-year+ bar now. Talk about lasting, I can easily smoosh the last bit of the previous bar onto the new bar with a bit of water -- no waste, no scraps to deal with. It holds its shape to the very end.

The lather seems denser and creamier at this late stage but it's hard for me to say when it "peaks". I'm guessing about 3 months in? Not sure.

@Zany_in_CO I LOVE your no slime Castile. Have made 3 batches and there will be more. I wait 8 weeks to start using them. My 95 yo mom loves how mild they are On her skin, too!
i send happy thoughts your way every time I use your soap

 

[Zany_in_CO]

@Zany_in_CO I LOVE your no slime Castile. Have made 3 batches and there will be more. I wait 8 weeks to start using them. My 95 yo mom loves how mild they are On her skin, too!
i send happy thoughts your way every time I use your soap

@janesathome You just made my day!

 

[nframe]

I expect tha lather would be dense and creamy. That leg of the trinity is made with palm, lard, tallow, solid shortening, etc. Shea butter is a good sub for lard, They have almost identical FAs/bar qualities.

I used 67% raw shea butter once to use up some I needed to soap. it was wonderful.

67% SHEA BUTTER CP - INS 155

I made a soap with 70% shea butter and it is wonderful. Expensive to make though...

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I made a soap with 70% shea butter and it is wonderful. Expensive to make though...

All soap is getting more expensive to make. I about had a heart attack the other day when I found 2 lb. Red Crown NaOH online for $20!!!

 

[janesathome]

@janesathome You just made my day! View attachment 71249