Pink is not PINK

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starduster

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Joined
Aug 12, 2008
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Location
Bauple Mountain Qld Australia
I received my 2nd order from Esentials Of Australia.Good sevice of course and I just love the spellbound fragrance.
I had ordered 1 kg of super fine french clay- pink.
This isn't pink, it looks like a light soft brown with pink tinges.I messaged another forum member mentioning this and she said she found the same thing. All is not lost. I took about half a cup of that clay and mixed it with a cup of walkers hand building clay plus about a teaspoon of Esc. of Aus Ultramarine pink adding enuff water to mix with hand blender.Now that is what I would call a pretty pink.
Has anybody else had experience with this pink clay?
:?
 
Pink clay is a dusty shade of pale pink in my experience. Very subtle & muted.
 
Thinking pink

Thanks Tabitha. I have no doupt that some time I will use that clay just as it is. There will be a project pop up that screams for a subtle colour of muted pink.
I do love playing and changing the colours . Even now I can see little pillows of pink fluffy clouds with various pinks in them.
 
Hi Starduster

I too bought this same pink clay from Escentials just the other day and thought the same thing. I used it to colour some lip balm I made and it turned out quite nice. I quite like the dusty pink shade but i agree it wasn't quite what i was expecting.

Cheers Debbie
 
I bought pink kaolin clay from 2 different suppliers & got 2 different colors. One is actually orange :shock: while the other is dusty pink.
 
Is there a better way?

Hmmm it seems it is a lot of money we are spending collectively for something that isn't what it is advertised as.
When I place an order it is naturally not for just that one item because of postal cost etc.That means it is some time before I can budget to try and get a more appropriate colour.
I wonder if something could be done such as a colour register where we can place our results.
I am aware that colour is subjective but pink is pink, not brown ,not orrange.
hmmmm again :idea: :idea: :idea:
Ps: I am very fussy about colour,colour alters our lives
 
Thanks :D I actually made an order Thursday for gingerbread man mould and FO for the kids to have pressies for their kindy teachers from BigTreeSupplies. I really wanted to buy the HoneyIShrankTheKids Type FO but they were out of stock :(
 
I have Rose Clay from FNWL and it's a nice, dusty shade of pink. I like to mix it with titanium dioxide to get a really nice pastel shade of pink.


IrishLass
 
Re: soft and pink

starduster said:
Would you by anychance have a photo of your pink soap please?

Although the picture doesn't do it justice, if you click on the following link and scroll way own to my Peppermint Stick soap with the MP 'candy', you'll see my soap made with Rose Clay and TD.


http://members.cox.net/ssfkjfalf/AllMySoap/Start.htm

IrishLass :)
 
Pink and so pretty

IrishLass said:
I have Rose Clay from FNWL and it's a nice, dusty shade of pink. I like to mix it with titanium dioxide to get a really nice pastel shade of pink.


IrishLass
Thankyou for showing your photos .They are glorious and that pink is perfection.
What does FNWL standfor?
:lol:
 
Although the picture doesn't do it justice, if you click on the following link and scroll way own to my Peppermint Stick soap with the MP 'candy', you'll see my soap made with Rose Clay and TD.

Hey IrishLass - your soaps are divine! I can honestly almost smell them through my computer screen :lol: :lol:

I read that you have one there made from CO superfatted at 17%. May I ask is this really a one oil soap and how does it wash/feel/lather? I have been thinking hard about CO (which I love) and superfatting to help reduce its drying factor in CP so I really will appreciate feedback on your gorgeous soap especially which skin types you recommend use it.

Thanks! :wink:

Tanya
 
Clay is primarily used for it's properties. If it has a pleasant color that is a bonus. I am thking now (reading thi thread again) you purchased it to be used as a colorant and if that is the case you were sure to be disappointed.
 
Oh, Irish Lass...your soaps are an inspiration to us all. They are so beautiful. I love the stamping! I have alot of rubber stamps left over from a former hobby ( I am soap obsessed now and never make time for other hobbies!). Can I use those or should I only use stamps made especially for soap? Also, how do you know when to stamp...when you unmold or when the soaps have been on the cure rack for a few days? Does the mica on the stamped bits come off on the wrapping or on fingers? In other words, is it a bit messy? Well, those soaps are amazing....I need to go soap right now. :D
Rita
 
topcat said:
Hey IrishLass - your soaps are divine! I can honestly almost smell them through my computer screen :lol: :lol:

I read that you have one there made from CO superfatted at 17%. May I ask is this really a one oil soap and how does it wash/feel/lather? I have been thinking hard about CO (which I love) and superfatting to help reduce its drying factor in CP so I really will appreciate feedback on your gorgeous soap especially which skin types you recommend use it.

Thanks! :wink:

Tanya

Hi Tanya!

Yes, it's only made with Coconut Oil and it feels awesome. :)

C.O. can be quite drying to the skin because of it's enormous cleansing power when it has been saponified, but un-saponified C.O., on the other hand, is quite a lovely and moisturizing oil. Many soapers have found out that if you increase the superfat level of the C.O soap- say anywhere from 15% to 20%- the excess non-saponified C.O. in the soap counterbalances C.O.'s normal skin-stripping effect and leaves you with a quite bubbly and mild soap.

Some people have voiced their concern (and rightfully so) over whether or not this kind of soap will get DOS, but since C.O. is actually pretty shelf stable (I know of another soaper with 3 year old coconut oil on her shelf that has not turned rancid yet), they hold up wonderfully. The first C.O soap with a 20% superfat I ever made is now one and a half years old and has never come down with DOS. (I save one bar from of all of my batches to check on periodically.)

Besides using 100% C.O., I've also made variations of this highly superfatted-type of recipe with excellent results using 70% C.O. along with cocoa butter, and/or PKO, and/or mango butter, etc. making up the remaining 30% difference.

If you ever make this kind of variation, just make sure that the other oils/fats you use to make up the difference have a strong and stable shelf life with a low % of linoliec acid. For reference, the fat with the highest linoleic acid % that I've used in this type of soap so far has been mango butter. It has a linoleic % of 7, and my soap is still holding up great at 8 months old.

As far as skin-types go, I shy away from making recomendations due to individual skin sensitivities one might have, etc.. The most I can say is that so far, I've had no complaints from among my guinea pigs, er, I mean testers. :wink: Some of them have dry skin and some of them don't, but all of my feedback with this kind of soap to date has been positive.

HTH!
IrishLass :)
 
reallyrita said:
Oh, Irish Lass...your soaps are an inspiration to us all. They are so beautiful. I love the stamping! I have alot of rubber stamps left over from a former hobby ( I am soap obsessed now and never make time for other hobbies!). Can I use those or should I only use stamps made especially for soap? Also, how do you know when to stamp...when you unmold or when the soaps have been on the cure rack for a few days? Does the mica on the stamped bits come off on the wrapping or on fingers? In other words, is it a bit messy? Well, those soaps are amazing....I need to go soap right now. :D
Rita

Hi Rita!

Thank you. :)

Yes, you can definitely, with a doubt, use rubber stamps. :) With the exception of 3 of my stamps, all of the rest that I use are rubber stamps from the craft store, and they work great. You just need to make sure that the stamp you use is not too 'busy' and that it has well-defined lines. The simplest designs work best on soap, I've found.

I actually stamp my soap immediately right after I cut it. I usually use a 33% lye solution when I soap, so when I cut it, it's never too soft or too hard. It's always 'just right' for stamping.

What I do is sprinkle a light dusting of mica on a small plate with a clean basting brush, dip the stamp into the mica on the plate until all the raised parts of the design are covered with it, and then gently press the stamp onto the surface of the soap until the soap 'gives' a little under the pressure, but not too much.

Then I lightly spritz the soap with rubbing alcohol which I keep in a small spray bottle exclusively for this purpose. I've found that the alcohol helps to 'set' the mica in place so that it stays put much better. I think that the soap being fresh helps, too.

When I go to wrap my soap, a tiny bit of mica may come off if I accidentally rub my fingers directly on the design, but it's quite negligable and does not hopelessly ruin the design.

HTH!
IrishLass :)
 

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