Orange oil

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Zalia

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Nov 2, 2023
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Location
California
Hello guys! This is my first post. I made my 6th batch using a couple of new ingredients. I used Goat milk and babassu oil on Monday 10/30 and today I was cutting the loaf. The soap was leaking orange oil. I only cut two bars and put the rest back in the mold. I know the goat milk increase heat when pour into oil. It was about 96 degree when stir it up. Want to know if I did something wrong in the process?
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That oil came from the soap.
 

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Hi @Zalia and welcome. 🌸
I am confused by your milk fat listed. Was that really what you used, or was that to account for the goat milk? If it was for the goat milk, that could be an issue. I count my goat milk as my liquid/water, not as a fat.
I’d also drop your castor oil to 5%, and recommend starting with smaller batches as you learn - less heartache when something don’t come out as planned.
I’m sure others will chime in with help and thoughts 😊
 
Hi @Zalia and welcome. 🌸
I am confused by your milk fat listed. Was that really what you used, or was that to account for the goat milk? If it was for the goat milk, that could be an issue. I count my goat milk as my liquid/water, not as a fat.
I’d also drop your castor oil to 5%, and recommend starting with smaller batches as you learn - less heartache when something don’t come out as planned.
I’m sure others will chime in with help and thoughts 😊
Ahhh. I used as account for the goat milk. That’s what I said I’ll do because the heartache is too. lol Thank you.
 
That one crack inside the soap looks like a heat tunnel to me. That orange oil that leaked out could be pretty caustic, for the following reason:

Since you put in "milk fat" as one of the oils, when you were actually using milk (which is mostly water, with only a little fat), this soap is going to be quite lye-heavy.

When I ran your oils through the soap calculator, you only needed 4.35oz of lye for a 0% SF soap (not taking into account the small amount of milk fat or the lye purity). However, you used 5.3oz of lye - more than 20% excess.

You either need to toss this soap, or you need to rebatch it with the missing 7.61oz of oils. To avoid a bunch of math calculations, it's best to choose oils that have a similar SAP value to (or higher than) milk fat. That pretty much narrows your choices to babassu oil, coconut oil, or palm kernel oil (NOT palm oil). The resulting soap will have a pretty high cleansing value, but at least it will be usable.

To summarize, please don't use this soap as-is. If you want to save it, please grate it up (wearing gloves!), and rebatch it with least 7.61oz of babassu oil, coconut oil, or palm kernel oil.
 
Hi Ali,

I've been reading some responses to others posted. Thank you for being so helpful.
I have a question: instead of adding the GM to the batch should I freeze the GM into cubes (Since it's a liquid.) and mix it with the lye?

Hi, you might try lowering your "water:lye ratio" to 2.0:1 also. My test batches are 500 grams. Alot less materials, when something goes south. Welcome!
Thank you so much for the suggestion! :)
That one crack inside the soap looks like a heat tunnel to me. That orange oil that leaked out could be pretty caustic, for the following reason:

Since you put in "milk fat" as one of the oils, when you were actually using milk (which is mostly water, with only a little fat), this soap is going to be quite lye-heavy.

When I ran your oils through the soap calculator, you only needed 4.35oz of lye for a 0% SF soap (not taking into account the small amount of milk fat or the lye purity). However, you used 5.3oz of lye - more than 20% excess.

You either need to toss this soap, or you need to rebatch it with the missing 7.61oz of oils. To avoid a bunch of math calculations, it's best to choose oils that have a similar SAP value to (or higher than) milk fat. That pretty much narrows your choices to babassu oil, coconut oil, or palm kernel oil (NOT palm oil). The resulting soap will have a pretty high cleansing value, but at least it will be usable.

To summarize, please don't use this soap as-is. If you want to save it, please grate it up (wearing gloves!), and rebatch it with least 7.61oz of babassu oil, coconut oil, or palm kernel oil.
Hi Ali,

I've been reading some responses to others posted. Thank you for being so helpful.
I have a question: instead of adding the GM to the batches, should I freeze the GM into cubes (Since it's a liquid.) and mix it with the lye?
 
Thank you so much for the suggestion! :)

Hi Ali,

I've been reading some responses to others posted. Thank you for being so helpful.
I have a question: instead of adding the GM to the batches, should I freeze the GM into cubes (Since it's a liquid.) and mix it with the lye?
Yes, that is a good way to do it for future.

However, for this batch, you must follow the steps I recommended above to correct your lye excess. Otherwise, your soap will not be safe to use.
 
Thank you so much for the suggestion! :)

Hi Ali,

I've been reading some responses to others posted. Thank you for being so helpful.
I have a question: instead of adding the GM to the batch should I freeze the GM into cubes (Since it's a liquid.) and mix it with the lye?

Yes, that is a good way to do it for future.

However, for this batch, you must follow the steps I recommended above to correct your lye excess. Otherwise, your soap will not be safe to use.
I will! I’ll rebatch it with coconut oil. Thank so much!
 
You are so welcome! Let us know how it turns out. The color is pretty so hopefully that carries through to the new batch. :)
Hey! It didn't end up working out!

I was able to make two batches of soap with Goat milk! Thank you so much with your help!
 

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