Oil/lye mixture temperature

[MatthewDM]

Why is it important that before you mix the lye/liquid mixture with the oils that they be within 10 degrees of each other?

 

[houseofwool]

Honestly? I don't know that it is.

I use a thermal transfer method. That is, I measure out my solid oils and set aside. I mix my water and lye and once it is completely dissolved, I add it to my solid oils. I let the heat of the lye water melt my solid oils. Once they are dissolved, I add the rest of my oils and additives.

Now, if I need to prevent gelling, I might use a different method, but for 95% of my soaps, this is what I do.

I'd guess that the temperature difference between the hard oils and the lye water is close to 140° when I start.

 

[pamielynn]

I don't think it matters, either. Maybe back in the old days of soaping, it did - I don't know. Since my good thermometer broke, I don't measure any temps anymore.

 

[shunt2011]

I agree that it's not all that important. I room temperature soap and prefer it so much more. When I first started of course I tried to get the lye and oils at 90-110 and it hardly ever worked that way. Once I got more practice and more confident in my procedure I started trying out new things until I found what works best for me.

 

[Susie]

I use the heat transfer method also. I never saw much benefit to all that fiddling with temperatures, but once I read on here about the heat transfer method, that was the end of using a thermometer.

 

[Meganmischke]

I don't fiddle with temps either. I have used the heat transfer method on occasion too. Temps need to be ranged for the ht method to work. I will say that if you combine oil and lye too hot you will have sos. I am sure this is not news to most but just reading through this it sounds like it could be misleading.

 

[new12soap]

It matters.

Using the heat transfer method with hot lye water and room temperature oils works out fine.

If your oils are significantly hotter than your lye, or if both are still too hot, you get a volcano. A very caustic volcano.

 

[DeeAnna]

I've never paid one minute of attention to this "rule". Despite my neglect of this apparently vital detail, my kitchen hasn't blown up (yet!) and I can make pretty decent soap. Maybe it was someone's attempt to keep new soapers out of too much trouble by getting them to cool the lye down to slow the time to trace. But that's just a guess.

"...If your oils are significantly hotter than your lye, or if both are still too hot, you get a volcano...."

That may well be true, but the "10 degree" rule doesn't address this concern. To prevent a volcano, the rule should be more like "your lye and fats should be below X degrees" not "your lye and fats should be within 10 degrees of each other". Fat at 170 and lye at 180 meet the 10 degree rule.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I remember heating my oils back up to get them to within 5°C of the lye solution (I learnt a stricter rule, it seems!) because I thought it was so important. Now, as I mostly HP, I really don't pay too much attention to the temperature at all.

 

[Susie]

I remember heating my oils back up to get them to within 5°C of the lye solution (I learnt a stricter rule, it seems!) because I thought it was so important. Now, as I mostly HP, I really don't pay too much attention to the temperature at all.

But we are being taught 10 degrees Farenheit. So, actually only a 0.56C degree difference.(don't know how to make the little degree symbol yet)

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

That is a very good point

 

[sethkaylyn]

So glad I saw this! I've only made 5 batches of CP so far and I'm considering trying this heat transfer method. Sounds so much easier. My recipe is simple so hopefully I won't have any problems.

 

[IrishLass]

The heat transfer method is out of the realm of possibility for me seeing as how I work from a cool/room temperature master-batch lye solution, so I'm the odd (wo)man out in that I still take temps, but only when working with my formulas with lots of high-stearic fats such as hydrogenated PKO and/or butters. If I don't get the temp balance right in those, I end up with stearic spots in my soap.

Basically, I warm up my master-batch lye solution in a hot water bath as my fats are melting, and although I don't take the temp of the solution (I just go by feel- just warm to the touch), I do take the temp of my melted oils/fats, and I commence soaping when they (the fats) have reached anywhere between 112F and 120F. If I soap much cooler than that with those particular formulas, I get pseudo-trace and end up with stearic spots in my soap.


IrishLass

 

[Jstar]

I still use temps..out here in hot Texas it would be easy for me to get one too hot..but I go between touch and thermometer...I soap right at 100..so if it 'feels' too hot on my hands, then I'll do a quick temp check.

 

[froggybean37]

For the heat transfer method do you add the lye water to all of your oils and wait until everything is the same temp? Or just to the solid oils and add your liquid oils after? Also, can you stir it while doing this? Or does that start the whole process moving too quickly?

I've never actually heard of this method so I appreciate your answers

 

[CiCi]

I prebatch my lye, so it is always cool. When I heat my oils, I let it cool down only enough to add my fragrance and any other additives that I want to put in. Then I pour in the lye water. I've never had a problem.

 

[grumpy_owl]

I've been mulling the heat-transfer method for some time now. I don't hate lining soap molds, I don't even get frustrated waiting for cure. But waiting for the lye mixture and oils to come to the same temp is nerve-wracking. I would really like to pour warm lye water into my oils and then stick-blend but I'm new at CP and fear 1) a caustic disaster and 2) frugal me losing a batch of oils due to ignorance/negligence. So for now, I measure measure measure the temps.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I tried hear transfer once but it didn't quite work for me. Admittedly it was with cocoa butter which needs some melting, but I don't try it any more