AAShillito
Well-Known Member
I wanted to add that the "Holy Trinity" recipe posted above is a great base recipe for trying out designs, swirls, fragrance oils. Its my building block for almost all my recipes. Hope it helps!
Same here! No discernible difference from fresh, per my testers.I also use powdered goat milk added to my oils - works terrifically Well!
Your recipe looks strikingly close to a recipe that took me months of research and trial and error to come up with and love. Now, you're making me want to try gm powder and koalin clay in it! Also, a big thankyou to the modern soapmaking website for that lovely article on making the perfect soap recipe because it was what sent me on such a hard earned and rewarding journey.21% Palm Oil
21% Coconut Oil
12% Shea Butter
41% Olive Oil
5% Castor Oil
1 tea PPO Sodium Lactate
1 tea PPO Kaolin Clay
1 oz PPO FO (follow safe usage rates)
35% Lye Concentration
5% Super Fat
I use a 100% Goat Milk full water replacement. I freeze my GM into cubes. I make up an ice batch with water, ice and salt (keeps the water colder). After weighing out the GM, I let it sit in the ice bath to lower the temp of the bowl. I then add small amounts of Sodium Hydroxide at a time and make sure the temp doesn't get above 70F and will let it rest until it drops back down and add more. I then let it sit in the ice bath while I weigh/melt my oils***.
Oils are generally around 100F and GM Lye Solution is around 65F. GM Lye Solution is also a bit on the thick side...like a slurry. I give it a good stir and then add to my Oils and give it a good whiz, stir, whiz. Since I don't add any colorants, I generally mix to a medium trace and then I pour. During the Spring/Summer (70F+), the mold goes in the frig, during the Fall/Winter(70F-) it goes into the garage. 24-48 hours later, I bring the soap out and let it sit to room temp and then unmold. I then cover and let sit for another 24 hours and then cut and cure for 8 weeks (my preference).
*** - I melt my PO and CO to a max of 120F and then cut the Shea Butter into small bits and let it melt in the residual heat. I then add in my Oils, Sodium Lactate and FO/Kaolin Clay.
You're welcome.Your recipe looks strikingly close to a recipe that took me months of research and trial and error to come up with and love. Now, you're making me want to try gm powder and koalin clay in it! Also, a big thankyou to the modern soapmaking website for that lovely article on making the perfect soap recipe because it was what sent me on such a hard earned and rewarding journey.
I used powdered goats milk and never have a discoloration problem. I mix my oils (melting my cocoa butter), add my powdered goat milk and then mix and add my lye water (heat transfer method).I bring to emulsion and add fragrance. I pour at light to medium trace. Cover and let sit overnight. Next day, unmold and cure. This works nicely for me. I also make goat milk oatmeal soap and add my “dusty oatmeal” (oatmeal I have run through a food processor till almost powder) to my oils and then proceed as above.Hey all I recently tried out some goats milk soap that a friend bought for me and I thought to myself, wow this is better than the soap I make. With that being said I decided that I should try my hand at making some. So I did some light research on the subject and there appears to be several techniques and various milks used in soap and was curious what method you all use.
I know that you can freeze the milk and slowly add the lye to prevent scorching. I also know that you can use half the water in your lye solution and add the other half as milk to your oils. I was curious if you can make your lye solution with full water, let it cool, and add powdered milk to the solution without it scorching?
Finally, are there any other methods that you use or are aware of that are simple and easy, preferably use all milk and no water, and don't require freezing the milk? Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance for any advice!
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