Mechanic's/Gardener's Soap

[shunt2011]

Sorry didn't see this till now. No clay or charcoal needed.

 

[KristaY]

First, I just have to say EIGHT HUNDRED AND FIFTY PLANTS????? Holy cow, Morpheus! I thought my task was daunting as I was looking at about 25 that I needed to get in plus all the winter cleanup. I feel like such a slacker....

Hi Kathie! Yes, I made the soap. I decided to make a 2 lb batch and split in half. One half I added the pumice with activated charcoal and the other half I added pumice plus bentonite clay. None of those additives are necessary but I wanted to add them to see what the difference feels like. I poured into individual cavity silicone molds & was able to unmold the AC batch within about 10 hours, no problem. They're a beautiful black. But the bentonite half is still in the molds. For some reason I always forget how much water it takes to hydrate bentonite clay! Because of all the extra water, it's going to be a while before I can get them out.

Recipe wise, I decided on 40% CO, 25% PO, 25% OO, 5% castor and 5% shea with 3% SF. I added 1/4 cup pumice to each lb plus 2 tsp of the AC & BC. I hydrated the pumice, AC & BC in water and mixed with my mini mixer to a smooth consistency.

If you decide to give it a try, let us know how it works out!

 

[Jstar]

I need to make some gardener soap too I suppose..we've got 450 'tomato' plants in the ground right now with another 300 or so to go in at a later date..doesn't count all the other veggies n fruits {peas, corn, cucumber, squash, mustard greens, turnips, radishes,watermelon}

I also dont do gloves..what are those?

 

[kmarvel]

Technically, you don't need any of the above for a mechanic's/gardener's soap. The goal is to remove the grease, dirt, filth, or other bits and pieces.

Pumice helps by abrasion, but can be a little too good at that. I prefer soaps without abrasives as my gardening involves plenty of abrasions to my hands already. I find I don't have much of my top skin layer left if the soap is too scrubby.

To make a "mechanic or garden soap" don't you want a little abrasion in there?? And what exactly makes it a mechanic soap?? Also, do you also cure these for a min of 30 days??

 

[dixiedragon]

For my gardener's soap, I make a coffee soap. I use my regular recipe, throw a few tablespoons of coffee grounds in the lye water, and add tea tree and lavender EOs. I made that on a whim one day, and my aunt loves it for after she gardens - she says it really helps because she would get small cuts that would become infected and if she washes her hands with this she doesn't. So it's become my gardener's soap.

IMO, gardener's soap and mechanic's soap would be two different things.

 

[shunt2011]

For my gardener's soap, I make a coffee soap. I use my regular recipe, throw a few tablespoons of coffee grounds in the lye water, and add tea tree and lavender EOs. I made that on a whim one day, and my aunt loves it for after she gardens - she says it really helps because she would get small cuts that would become infected and if she washes her hands with this she doesn't. So it's become my gardener's soap.

IMO, gardener's soap and mechanic's soap would be two different things.

I make a kitchen soap with coffee and grounds. I have a couple customers that use that for gardening as well. I suppose it's just what works/appeals to each person. My husband and co-workers prefer the pumice for greasy hands.

 

[lizard1232]

I see you've already made your soap, but I have a suggestion for next time or for anyone else that may want to try. I feel that gardener's soap and mechanics soap have two different goals and therefore are going to be two different soaps (just my opinion, not judging anyone else's). I see a mechanics soap more as a grease cutter and a gardener's soap more as a power scrubber. I just recently made what I would consider more of a mechanic's soap using a technique I modified from Soaping 101. Ms. Cathy made scrubs using both liquid and cream soaps. I switched out the sugar for both fine pumice and ground walnut shells and added in a little Orange EO for the "authentic" smell and for the grease cutting. Since then, I've been researching a better grease cutter and came across d'Limonene. It's not too expensive and is all natural if you're into that kind of thing. You can even get it on Amazon.

ETA link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAu7sUjUoB4 and correct spelling.

 

[MorpheusPA]

To make a "mechanic or garden soap" don't you want a little abrasion in there?? And what exactly makes it a mechanic soap?? Also, do you also cure these for a min of 30 days??

Some say yes, some say no. Even now, after finishing the entire front garden (about 250 plants in without gloves), my hands are clean even without abrasives. Although there's a touch of impacted dirt stuck under my nails, but nothing would get that out.

I certainly wouldn't object to a very gentle abrasive in my soap, it's just that I use it for other things were bits and pieces left behind would be bad. Plus I don't want to roughen and wear away at my skin any more than the soil already does.

I still have 600 plants to go, after all.

 

[KristaY]

I see you've already made your soap, but I have a suggestion for next time or for anyone else that may want to try. I feel that gardener's soap and mechanics soap have two different goals and therefore are going to be two different soaps (just my opinion, not judging anyone else's). I see a mechanics soap more as a grease cutter and a gardener's soap more as a power scrubber. I just recently made what I would consider more of a mechanic's soap using a technique I modified from Soaping 101. Ms. Cathy made scrubs using both liquid and cream soaps. I switched out the sugar for both fine pumice and ground walnut shells and added in a little Orange EO for the "authentic" smell and for the grease cutting. Since then, I've been researching a better grease cutter and came across d'Limonene. It's not too expensive and is all natural if you're into that kind of thing. You can even get it on Amazon.

ETA link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAu7sUjUoB4 and correct spelling.

Hi lizard! I see your point in grease cutting and power scrubbing. I just decided to combine the 2. I increased the coconut oil way above what I normally use in bath soap for the cleansing power and added pumice for the scrubbiness. Since mechanics usually need to remove grease and gardeners usually need to remove dirt, I wanted the high CO and abrasiveness for both. This is going to be my test batch and I'll probably end up tweaking the recipe a bit but this is my baseline.

ETA: Morpheus and Jstar, I'm exhausted just thinking about putting in that many plants. Between the 2 of you, you've got almost 2000 plants! Yep, it's official, I'm a total slacker.....

 

[Jstar]

LOL, it gets worse Krista..I have to weed too..and the grass is REALLY healthy this year :evil:{grumble}

I'll be taking pics when everything is all nice, tall and full of yummies {and weed free}

And you're not a slacker...Im just insane.

ETA: Let us know how your experiment comes out..I'll most likely make some coffee soap like Dixie that I had forgotten to make...lubs my coffee soap and Im completely out

 

[JayBird]

For my gardener's soap, I use 1 TB charcoal PPO in a 100% CO mix at 20% SF. Yes, very simple recipe. I use this because I have allergic skin reactions to the leaves of some of my garden plants (especially tomato plants). The CO will lather up in whatever water is available to me (my garden is not where I live), and the charcoal halts the rashing process I get on my arms if I rinse off whenever I start to feel the rash starting to break out, which is about every 30-60 minutes of gardening.

For one of my mechanic's soap, I soak 1 TB of cornmeal in orange EO and add it at trace. The cornmeal seems to anchor the scent, and acts as a replacer for pumace. I used to use a higher CO in it, but have started incorporating more lard, and it's aawwweeesssoommmee.

 

[RDak]

FWIW.....I make batches that are always 3 pounds of oils.

When making soap for gardening/mechanic work I add 4 ounces of kerosene to my HP double boiler soap after it is done and before adding FO.

Dissolves dirt and oil a bit better than the regular soap.

 

[kmarvel]

I make a kitchen soap with coffee and grounds. I have a couple customers that use that for gardening as well. I suppose it's just what works/appeals to each person. My husband and co-workers prefer the pumice for greasy hands.

Sorry for the questions. I think I will make both....mechanic's soap and the gardener's soap with coffee grinds.

I usually make a 3lb mold of soap. How much coffee grinds would I put in the lye water??

Also, for a 1/2 cup of pumice, how much water would I use to dissolve it??

And these soaps also cure for 30 days??

 

[Obsidian]

I wouldn't put coffee grinds in the lye, it will make them smell. It will fade with a cure but there is no reason for them to go into the water. I mix dry grinds into the soap as soon as it hits emulsion.

For the pumice, add just enough water to smooth out the lumps. I generally make it like a thick pudding.

 

[shunt2011]

I use already brewed coffee grounds from the triple strength coffee I make for the liquid and just add it to my traced batter. I use about 1T ppo.

 

[KristaY]

....
For the pumice, add just enough water to smooth out the lumps. I generally make it like a thick pudding.

I did exactly this ^^^^. I didn't measure the water though, just kept adding bit by bit until I got it to a point I could smooth it out. I also ended up using my mini frother just to make sure I had no more lumps.

I was FINALLY able to unmold the bentonite clay batch (round). It took 4 days due to the high amount of water I had to add to hydrate the clay. They're still really spongy feeling. I also added sodium lactate to the lye water. I can only image how much longer it would have taken to unmold those without it. :crazy: The activated charcoal batch feels nice and firm so I'll probably start testing those next week just for fun.

 

[kchaystack]

I was FINALLY able to unmold the bentonite clay batch (round). It took 4 days due to the high amount of water I had to add to hydrate the clay. They're still really spongy feeling. I also added sodium lactate to the lye water. I can only image how much longer it would have taken to unmold those without it. :crazy: The activated charcoal batch feels nice and firm so I'll probably start testing those next week just for fun.

I never worry about re-hydrating clay in my soap. I add it to the oils, blitz it with a sb, and then add my lye water. I have not had a problem with clumps or anything.

 

[KristaY]

No problem with cracking either, haystack? That's my biggest concern especially with bentonite. I had a batch crack and warp when I didn't hydrate it first.

 

[kchaystack]

No problem with cracking either, haystack? That's my biggest concern especially with bentonite. I had a batch crack and warp when I didn't hydrate it first.

Not at all. I guess if I added ALOT it might matter but at 1 tablespoon PPO it is noticeable in the finished soap. It has a slight grit for lack of a better word but it is not at all harsh or sandpaper like.

 

[Jstar]

I use already brewed coffee grounds from the triple strength coffee I make for the liquid and just add it to my traced batter. I use about 1T ppo.

This is what I do as well..makes wonderful scrubbies