LS Not Turning Clear

[KatieV]

Hi all!

Recipe:
16.5 oz Olive Oil
7 oz Coconut Oil
16.5 oz Water
5.5 oz KOH

40 oz water to dilute
(2oz borax/water solution to neutralize when finished)

I've been cooking the LS for about 5 hours now, but it's not at the translucent stage! It still looks like mashed potatoes (and there is some white dried soap on the sides of the crockpot).

Should I go ahead and dilute or not? I've testing the paste in water and it is in between cloudy and clear.

This is my first LS batch, so I'm not quite sure what to do! Here's a picture of the paste now.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[KatieShephard]

That's what mine looked like too. I was instructed to test for zap and when I didn't have any I scooped it all out of the crock...then measured out a small amount and started my dilution. I ended up needing a 3:1 dilution. I have pics in another thread that you can check out....here... http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49263

 

[KatieV]

Thanks so much Katie! Did you need to use borax to neutralize?

Your thread gives me hope!!

 

[KatieShephard]

Thanks so much Katie! Did you need to use borax to neutralize?

Your thread gives me hope!!

No. The only thing I added was a little grapefruit EO. Your recipe looks very similar to mine Just so you know, I left my crock on warm over night with the water in it. Next morning it still wasn't all diluted...so I turned it back up to low and stickblended it. Then let it cook a little longer. It was a LONG process!

 

[KatieV]

Thanks again Katie!

I put the paste and the 40 oz. of water on the stove and combined about 45 minutes ago. The mixture is like molasses!! Super thick, but becoming more clear.

I just tested the PH and it still is high, so I'll probably have to neutralize with borax.

 

[Susie]

Liquid soap will not remain soap if you get the pH too low. It is why we use the zap test. If no zap, no need to neutralize. If you get below(I think) 8.5 pH, you run the risk of "breaking" the soap and causing it to separate.

 

[shunt2011]

Thanks again Katie!

I put the paste and the 40 oz. of water on the stove and combined about 45 minutes ago. The mixture is like molasses!! Super thick, but becoming more clear.

I just tested the PH and it still is high, so I'll probably have to neutralize with borax.

Did you use a superfat at all? You shouldn't have to neutralize it if you did. I use a 3% superfat in my recipe and have never had to use borax. I'm by no means a pro at it as I've only got a handful of batches under my belt. But from what I've read it's not necessary if superfatted. Mine also never hits a gel looking phase. I just let it sit till no zap and then dilute. Good Luck to you!

 

[KatieV]

Thanks all!

I did get a zap before I diluted (it really was like a 9 volt battery!!!) So I guess I'll (slowly) neutralize.

However, after I diluted with 40 oz I let it sit overnight... It was jello this morning!!! (and a white jello to boot!)

I added another 10 oz, hoping that gets it to a more soap like consistency

 

[Susie]

What was your superfat? You should not have white soap if the superfat is 3% or below.

 

[KatieV]

I actually don't know if it was superfatted at all, Susie... The recipe doesn't indicate a superfat and I just followed it. (probably the last time I'm using that recipe!!)

Here is a picture of the soap this morning, with the added 10 oz of water.

 

[shunt2011]

I actually don't know if it was superfatted at all, Susie... The recipe doesn't indicate a superfat and I just followed it. (probably the last time I'm using that recipe!!)

Going forward you really need to run all recipes through a soap calculator. Errors can be made in print and you really need to know that you are working with an accurate recipe. Hope you get it to work out. It's such a hassle when you put so much time into something and it fails.

 

[KatieV]

Shunt2011 - I saw that you were also a member of the HCSG. Do you know if their soap calculator works for liquid soaps? I've always used it with great results in my CP bar soaps, but I haven't tried it for liquid soaps yet.

Thanks!!

 

[FGOriold]

I know this might come off as a stupid question, but looking at your formula (it has a lye excess) and your pics, are you sure you used potassium hydroxide and not sodium hydroxide? Your formula and cook time (depending on the temperature you used for the cook) should have created a very clear soap? It is a mistake often made.

 

[KatieV]

FGOriold - I did use Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) for this soap (although I do use Sodium Hydroxide for my CP soaps). I'm just wondering if I cooked it too much?

 

[KatieShephard]

questions

questions for the experienced peeps:

If she diluted before zap was gone, would it neutralize after having been cooked overnight--even with the extra water? (assuming no lye excess in the recipe)

And if it's lye excessive...could she just add-say 1tbsp- at a time until no zap? Or is she better off trying to neutralize with the borax?

 

[Susie]

Always, always, always run every recipe through a reputable lye calculator for yourself. Typos happen, editors miss stuff. You get bad recipes.

Did you use a digital scale?

I use this calculator for liquid soaps. It just has better outcomes for me.

http://summerbeemeadow.com/content/advanced-calculator-solid-cream-or-liquid-soaps

 

[KatieV]

Thanks again Susie! I did use a digital scale, but I'm wondering if I might have done some mis-measuring.

I'll definitely try the calculator you mentioned. I am a member of the HSCG and they have a lye calculator there, but I'm not sure if it works for liquid soaps too.

 

[Susie]

I'm not a member(this is my hobby, not my living), so I can't help you. But I have used other calculators with not as good results. If I recall correctly, it uses more water/liquid to KOH is why it is better.