Lard Soap

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SPowers

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 1, 2020
Messages
1,169
Reaction score
1,654
Location
Windsor
I made my first lard soap yesterday.... trying to recreate a drop swirl I saw on Youtube. It didn't turn out too badly but the 3rd colour which was basically a blend of the 2 main colours (orange and pink) didn't really do anything. My wishful thinking that a medium toned pink mica would magically turn bold and vibrant was just that - wishful thinking! I know where I can improve so that's the point of it all I think.

I cut the loaf on its side, but still got some drag marks... would leaving it in the mold longer help with that? I released from the mold nicely - no forcing at all so thought it was ready.

As a side note, I made 200 gr extra batter so I could try some very colourful & edible powders for colour morphing. One was a strawberry powder and this morning it smelled amazing which was surprising. I couldn't smell the other at all which was dragon fruit. Both morphed and turned tanish but more surprisingly they both were soft and still are for that matter. The only difference from the drop swirl was the powder vs mica so there must be something in it that affects the hardening of the bars - and they were in very small individual molds. On the bright side, I put some of the powder inn my yogurt and it was very tasty! :p Here is a pic of the cut.
 

Attachments

  • Pink Orange Drop Swirl.jpg
    Pink Orange Drop Swirl.jpg
    129 KB
I cut the loaf on its side, but still got some drag marks..
Time in the mold is depending on how it feels. If it feels to soft, sometimes I'll put it in the fridge for a while, then cut. If I have a soap that I worry about drag marks on I will use a cutting block with a sharp knife. But some loafs I will cut on there side or upside down depending on what I put on or in the soap. If I don't like how its cutting on trimming the end, then I will switch it up and think of one of the other ways to cut it.

One was a strawberry powder and this morning it smelled amazing which was surprising. I couldn't smell the other at all which was dragon fruit.
If they are fruit based powders, they won't get along with lye and will turn usually brown.

As far as the your photo.. They look beautiful.. Keep it up :) I love making Lard soap!!
 
Thanks for the tips... I have a cutter coming so hopefully that will help. I love the lard too.
 
Today I made the original 75% lard recipe... I did a rainbow soap - what a project that was with 6 different colours. I'm not sure it will turn out - I put too much lye/water in my first layer so that in itself may make the batch unworthy. Then I poured one layer just a bit too early so there will be some blurring. Overall I think it will look ok - hopefully it will be usable. I think these lard soaps should sit in the mold an extra day. Will post a pic when I cut.
 
I do use SL in all my soaps... I think it was hard enough b/c it came out of the mold with no issues at all. And I cut it on it's side so not sure why I got the dragging.
 
I do use SL in all my soaps... I think it was hard enough b/c it came out of the mold with no issues at all. And I cut it on it's side so not sure why I got the dragging.
I get drag marks occasionally with my lard soaps if I don't get the gelling temperature above 125°F
 
I cpop'd this at 170 f for 2 hrs so that shouldn't be the cause.
Yes it could be that. I invested some money into 2 heating pads and I am glad I did. I tried the CPOP method and I didn't like the results at all.

However I love the results from the heating pads. I don't get the crazy look on top of my soaps and after 2 or 3 hours, I just remove the heating pads and let it cool down and harden. I could probably cut my soap around 12 hours later but I usually wait until 18-24 hours before cutting.
 
Same here!! so glad I did..
I gel 99% of my soap recipes and with the heating pads I don't have to worry about soap getting hot enough to gel. Since my recipes don't generate enough heat on their own, I can now gel them and control the heat.

I think the reason why the heating pad works better for me, is because the heating pads are in closer contact with the molds and allows for a more even and direct distribution of the heat.
 
I gel all my soaps and 170 for two hours would cook it and could cause a volcano. I use towels. Never need to use anything else even in winter. I keep my heat a 67-68 pretty much year round.
 
I gel 99% of my soap recipes and with the heating pads I don't have to worry about soap getting hot enough to gel. Since my recipes don't generate enough heat on their own, I can now gel them and control the heat.

I think the reason why the heating pad works better for me, is because the heating pads are in closer contact with the molds and allows for a more even and direct distribution of the heat.
how long do you keep your heating pads on and at what temp?

So far I haven't had a problem with the cpop method.
 
how long do you keep your heating pads on and at what temp?

So far I haven't had a problem with the cpop method.
It takes about an hour for my soaps to reach 125°F. Once it reaches 125°F I leave it there for 2 hours.
I gel all my soaps and 170 for two hours would cook it and could cause a volcano. I use towels. Never need to use anything else even in winter. I keep my heat a 67-68 pretty much year round.
I just can't get my recipes to gel on there own. So I started using heating pads. It works well for me but many people don't need to use them. Wish I was one of them.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top