Homemade cold process soap and plumbing

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I started making soap on Mother’s Day this year. It was a Mother’s Day gift for myself. It had been my dream to make soap for almost 20 years but just couldn’t take the first step for a lot of different reasons. Now, I am so hooked on soaping that I can’t stop thinking about it!

But here is my question. After I make soap, I wipe every soap-making tool, pot and bowl with paper towel to limit the amount of oil that I pour down the kitchen drain as much as possible because I am afraid that it might end up clogging the plumbing in the future.

However, what about using the homemade soap to wash hands in bathroom sinks or to shower? Will that cause the plumbing to get clogged because homemade soap is superfatted? I make coconut oil soap that is superfatted at 20%. Is that a lot of oil going down the drain if we keep using it, enough to clog the plumbing? I don’t know if soap bars you can buy at drugstores are made differently but is homemade soap better or worse for plumbing than mass-produced soap like Ivory, Dove, Irish Spring and so on?

Many thanks in advance for any advice!
 
...I make coconut oil soap that is superfatted at 20%. Is that a lot of oil going down the drain if we keep using it, enough to clog the plumbing...

It can be too much oil if you have older plumbing and hard water. Apparently the superfat and the hard water scum stick to the pipes and build up over time. Carolyn (cmzaha) has had that problem. She uses a lower superfat (about 2% if I remember right) and also uses a chelator to reduce soap scum formation.

You couldn't use 2% superfat with your 100% CO recipe -- it would be far too harsh. If the high % of superfat is a concern for you, maybe it's time to try other recipes that are mild with less superfat?

Most brands of commercial cleansing bars and soap sold in the US have under 1% superfat. They also use chelators to reduce soap scum and increase shelf life.

Check the labels of the "soap" you are familiar with -- if the packaging says the product is a "cleansing bar" or some other term that does not include the actual word "soap," then the product is most likely not true lye-based soap. Dove is an example. Many "soap" bars nowadasys are mostly or all made of synthetic detergents, so they don't make soap scum.
 
I use homemade soap exclusively and also have never had a problem. If you are concerned, once a month or so, run hot water and washing soda down your drains. It's a mildly caustic (milder than lye, but more caustic than baking soda.) I get mine from WalMart. Yellow box, Arm & Hammer brand, with the clothes detergents. You can also run lye and water down the drains, but I don't like to mix lye and hot water.

If you have a septic tank, pour your sour dairy products - milk, sour cream, etc - down the drain. It's basically yogurt for your septic tank. Helps to replenish the good bacteria in there.
 
It can be too much oil if you have older plumbing and hard water. Apparently the superfat and the hard water scum stick to the pipes and build up over time. Carolyn (cmzaha) has had that problem. She uses a lower superfat (about 2% if I remember right) and also uses a chelator to reduce soap scum formation.

You couldn't use 2% superfat with your 100% CO recipe -- it would be far too harsh. If the high % of superfat is a concern for you, maybe it's time to try other recipes that are mild with less superfat?

Most brands of commercial cleansing bars and soap sold in the US have under 1% superfat. They also use chelators to reduce soap scum and increase shelf life.

Check the labels of the "soap" you are familiar with -- if the packaging says the product is a "cleansing bar" or some other term that does not include the actual word "soap," then the product is most likely not true lye-based soap. Dove is an example. Many "soap" bars nowadasys are mostly or all made of synthetic detergents, so they don't make soap scum.
DeeAnna is very correct, I cannot use a high superfat exclusively because of my plumbing issues. I live on a hillside below street level without proper fall to my lines so nothing flushes through my drains well. My one exception is my salt bars which I superfat salt bars for myself at 15% and only use them when showering and my shower is next to my main line. My plumbing bills show that it helps. I also do not clean my soaping utensils and throw it down the drain. I clean in a 5 gallon bucket and dump the soapy water over the bank. Plus side of this is white flies are not under control in the bushes below me and the bamboo gets watered :D
 
Well this is something I never thought of..........I toss it all down the drain:eek:
I even put it in the dishwasher...
 
DeeAnna, I have had soap suds from a dishwasher all over the kitchen and it's a real mess to clean up. It wasn't from soap I made, though. If I remember correctly it was liquid dish soap. Dumb move! I have made some dumb moves in my time, but won't tell all as some are too totally embarrassing!

Well this is something I never thought of..........I toss it all down the drain:eek:
I even put it in the dishwasher...

You even put what in the dishwasher? When I first read this I thought you meant you put lye in the dishwasher. That can't be what you meant, right? It would eventually cause deterioration of the gaskets inside the dishwasher.

I see your response to DeeAnna and think it indicates you're talking about your soapmaking utensils? Personally I don't see a problem with that, since they are pre-washed anyway. That is if I understand your most recent post correctly.
 
Okay, I thought Holly was saying she puts soap in the dishwasher. Am I'm wrong about that? The sentence wasn't too clear, and I'm confused about what "it" is. The topic is soap and plumbing, but maybe the discussion has evolved away from that and I missed the shift?
 
I have been making cold process soap for years, and we use my hand soap exclusively. We have not yet had a problem with our plumbing or septic tank.

That's great to hear! Thank you for letting me know about your experience!

It can be too much oil if you have older plumbing and hard water. Apparently the superfat and the hard water scum stick to the pipes and build up over time. Carolyn (cmzaha) has had that problem. She uses a lower superfat (about 2% if I remember right) and also uses a chelator to reduce soap scum formation.

You couldn't use 2% superfat with your 100% CO recipe -- it would be far too harsh. If the high % of superfat is a concern for you, maybe it's time to try other recipes that are mild with less superfat?

Most brands of commercial cleansing bars and soap sold in the US have under 1% superfat. They also use chelators to reduce soap scum and increase shelf life.

Check the labels of the "soap" you are familiar with -- if the packaging says the product is a "cleansing bar" or some other term that does not include the actual word "soap," then the product is most likely not true lye-based soap. Dove is an example. Many "soap" bars nowadasys are mostly or all made of synthetic detergents, so they don't make soap scum.

Thank you so much for the very detailed advice, DeeAnna! I had never heard of chelators. I will be checking into that. I make other types of soap beside 100% coconut oil soap and their superfat rate ranges from 3% to 10%. I think I will try to stick to lower superfat rates in the future. Many thanks again!

I use homemade soap exclusively and also have never had a problem. If you are concerned, once a month or so, run hot water and washing soda down your drains. It's a mildly caustic (milder than lye, but more caustic than baking soda.) I get mine from WalMart. Yellow box, Arm & Hammer brand, with the clothes detergents. You can also run lye and water down the drains, but I don't like to mix lye and hot water.

If you have a septic tank, pour your sour dairy products - milk, sour cream, etc - down the drain. It's basically yogurt for your septic tank. Helps to replenish the good bacteria in there.

Thank you very much for sharing your experience and giving me the specific and concrete advice! I will definitely try your method!
 
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I rinse 1st in sink then just chunk it in. Never had a problem.

It's great to hear that you have never had a problem even if you rinse your tools in the sink and put them in the dishwasher! My house is more than 80 years old with old concrete plumbing under the ground so I would hesitate to do the same but maybe all that oil from soapmaking clean-up doesn't cause as much clogging as I imagine it does :)
 
I lightly wipe out my buckets and spatuals and put in dishwasher.
ONLY issue I had with over flow bubbles was putting a full dishwashing soap tab in the soap dispenser. Now I put just a pinch of powdered dishwashing soap in and no more issue.

If I had a septic tank I would wash in a big bucket and dump outside, not in sink
 
When I do CP , I do the wipe it all out method then wash with lots of dawn. For HP, I just add water and viola soap! LOL

FYI, for your septic tank, don't put any of the stuff you buy on the shelves in it-my septic inspector said that only builds up sludge. Instead, once a month, put one packet of yeast in each toilet over night then flush. Just the regular bread yeast, so like a tablespoon each toilet if you don't have packets....it feeds the "good" stuff in the septic tank and no sludge! And def. dump the sour milks down, same idea. Do it in the toilet furthest from the septic tank so it gets in the pipes too. I had asked about soap etc, he told me not a huge deal and you can use lye (hahah) to clear it if needed -the amount of lye wouldn't hurt the septic tank.

Ahhhhh the fun stuff!
 
I am certain putting yeast and spoiled dairy into your septic system won't hurt it, but it's not likely to do a lot to improve the function of your septic system either. The micro-organisms that digest fecal matter and urine aren't necessarily the same as those that we use to make bread, beer, and fermented dairy. I agree it's 100% a myth about the commercial additives -- it's a waste of money to use 'em.

The normal digestive microbes you supply every time you use the toilet are all that are needed to maintain a healthy septic tank. Avoid putting things down the drain such as paint, solvents, pesticides, fat/oil, and other liquids that are flammable, toxic, or don't mix with water, as well as non-digestible or slowly digestible solids such as tampons, baby wipes, condoms, etc.

A septic system can tolerate a little bit of NaOH or KOH from time to time, but be sure to dilute, dilute, dilute with lots of water as you do it. Don't discard large amounts of alkali down the drain, whether you have a septic system or city plumbing. Dispose of that at your local hazardous waste facility if available or give it to another soaper to use or use it up yourself by making soap.

Also, schedule regular pumping to remove the inevitable buildup of solids.

Here's a sensible guide to taking good care of a septic system: http://www.nesc.wvu.edu/pdf/ww/septic/septic_tank2.pdf

"...commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and may be harmful to the absorption field.... Be sure when the septic tank is pumped that it is completely emptied. It is not necessary to retain any of the solids to restart the digestive process. You do not need biological or chemical additives for successful restart or continuous operation of your septic system..."
 
Before Chris and I lived together, we didn't have problems with homemade soap and plumbing - my house was 70-ish years old but the plumbing was completely redone in the 90's. Chris had his (house!) plumbing redone in the early 2000's. We moved into a 100 year old house last summer, much of the plumbing is still old cast iron. The basement bathroom was added about 5 years ago, so we've had no problems with that. Chris redid the main floor bathroom this spring - it was always clogging up. The upstairs bathroom still needs to be done, we have to clean it out about every 3 weeks. I superfat at 3%, with the exception of Chris' salt bars at 15%. My soap is used at all the sinks and in both showers, although the basement shower probably sees less usage because only one of the two kids uses it. Upstairs, three of us use handmade soap. I don't always use my soap, I keep 3-4 bars in rotation. Right now I'm using one of mine, two from the Home Sweet Home swap, and one from my friend at Brazos Valley Soaps... so I can't really say that I still have problems with a low SF because I'm not sure what other soapers use! I will say... if you have old plumbing, be prepared for maintenance! My husband and I love using handmade soap and agreed the maintenance is worth it.
 
I stopped wiping off my soaping pots, utensils etc with paper towels. As I was going through so many rolls as I make a lot of soap. So I purchased at Costco a pack of hand towels, I think its 25 towels and I wipe off everything including the stick blender with one towel per batch sometimes 2. I throw them into a bag in the laundry room and when I have a lot of them I throw them in the washer. At this point they are no longer oils they are soap as it takes a while before I wash them. They come out great to use again and again. I do throw a cup of washing soda in with them as I was worried about the plumbing and my mom had told me that this works to reduce scum. After the utensils and pots are wiped out with the towels there really is not any oil on them anymore so I just wash them with dawn in the regular sink. After almost 11 years I have had zero plumbing issues and my house is 25 years old so the plumbing isnt really new. Who knows, Ill deal with it if it happens.
 
@[SIZE=4][URL='https://www.soapmakingforum.com/members/holly8991.26837/'][COLOR=#000000]Holly8991[/COLOR][/URL][/SIZE] -- Ah, thanks for setting me straight!

@redhead1226 -- Your mom is a smart cookie. :) A cup of washing soda definitely helps to get those soaping towels cleaner and reduce soap scum. I also use cheap terry cloth squares (aka "dairy towels" if you live in dairy country) to clean my soaping equipment. I've noticed sometimes the residues on the towels doesn't always fully turn into soap -- some of the fats stay as fats. The washing soda helps get rid of the oily residues.
 
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