Help with recipe numbers...darn high cleansing and low INS..

[Lane]

It's one o'clock in the morning and I am driving myself crazy!!!!

I am adjusting my soap recipe because I need to bring my cleansing number down, it's a 23. I think my recipe may be too drying/stripping even though my conditioning number is a 50 and my lather numbers are great, 31/30.

So here's the problem, my INS is generally at a constant 145. The range needs to be in 145-160. Yes, it's in range...but it's pretty darn close...and my cleansing is a 23 and the range is 14-22.

Bah! I will not sleep until my cleansing is down to atleast 20 and my ISN is near 150...

The oils I am using that are giving me these numbers......
PKO 4oz
CO 5oz
Palm oil 5oz
Soybean oil 4oz
Shea Butter 2.5oz
Avocado Oil 2oz
Sweet Almond oil 2oz
Castor Oil 5oz

 

[Zenobiah]

Let me take a look. BRB

 

[Zenobiah]

Reduce the Soybean oil and/or increase the palm and coconut.

 

[Lane]

Thanks! I'm working right now with reducing the soy and increasing the shea to take down the cleansing number...

sleeeeeeeeeep....

 

[CPSoaper]

Re: Help with recipe numbers...darn high cleansing and low I

It's one o'clock in the morning and I am driving myself crazy!!!!

I am adjusting my soap recipe because I need to bring my cleansing number down, it's a 23. I think my recipe may be too drying/stripping even though my conditioning number is a 50 and my lather numbers are great, 31/30.

So here's the problem, my INS is generally at a constant 145. The range needs to be in 145-160. Yes, it's in range...but it's pretty darn close...and my cleansing is a 23 and the range is 14-22.

Bah! I will not sleep until my cleansing is down to atleast 20 and my ISN is near 150...

The oils I am using that are giving me these numbers......
PKO 4oz
CO 5oz
Palm oil 5oz
Soybean oil 4oz
Shea Butter 2.5oz
Avocado Oil 2oz
Sweet Almond oil 2oz
Castor Oil 5oz

Remember that those numbers are just guidelines. Yuu might find that you actually prefer a cleansing value of 23. I would suggest not using the SOA or avacodo oil and saving them for something other than soap. You can buy canola, sunflower or safflower oils in your grocery store. Your recipe as is and percentages end up being

PKO 4oz 13.56%
CO 5oz 16.95%
Palm oil 5oz 16.95%
Soybean oil 4oz 13.56%
Shea Butter 2.5oz 8.47%
Avocado Oil 2oz 6.78%
Sweet Almond oil 2oz 6.78%
Castor Oil 5oz 16.95%


I would make these changes to your recipe:

PKO 15%
CO 15%
Palm oil 15%
Soybean oil 30%
Shea Butter 5%
Avocado Oil 5%
Sweet Almond oil 5%
Castor Oil 5%

Which gives you these numbers:

Hardness 43
Cleansing 19
Condition 44
Bubbly lath. 24
Creamy lath. 28
Iodine 55
INS 148
INS

When trying to get a bar that is hard with great lather and conditioning properties, try to keep your ratio of hard/soft butters to either 50/50 or a 60/40 split.

 

[Lane]

CPSoaper. Thanks for the number advice! I was up until about 3.30am trying to work my numbers! Your recipe looks great but I have to have higher bubbly/creamy numbers. Main customer base is in Iowa (very hard water...) and a lot of my product goes to tattoo shops so I HAVE to have nutrient oils, avocado has a high percentage of unsaponifiables so I always feel safe using it, knowing it pads my superfat % nicely... Almond oil is so cheap!!! Out here (Vegas) there seems to be alot of soapers because you can NEVER find oils here...ever... it's a pain, so I just bulk order my oils all at once... I do however switch up a few oils with canola, but it seems to drop my INS quite a bit...

I finally got my numbers to this:
Hardness 44
Cleansing 20
Condition 51
Bubbly 30
Creamy 33
Iodine 58
INS 148

Thanks again for you number advice! I LOVE hearing what everyone has to say on recipe developments!