Help with goat milk, honey, oat recipe

[Curtis]

using power you can add it directly to your oils

I did this the first time I made a soap using powdered goats milk. The resulting soap had some white dots/blobs in it. I stick blended the powder really well into the oils (maybe not enough, idk). I figured the white dots in the soap were from the lye water reacting with the oil from the powdered goats milk. I've since been premixing the powder in water and I've had better results. I did read on this forum that many people add the powder to the oils before the lye water is added with perfect results. That didn't work as well for me.

I actually see people not premixing all kinds of things like TiO2, micas, etc and their soap looks great. I tried not premixing that stuff and I got worse results, so for me everything is premixed.

 

[cmzaha]

You definitely have to be more careful when premixing gm powder into your oils. I always mix my gm powder, which I use exclusively, since I soap with masterbatch and vinegar, directly into my oils and SB in but it does take some time. Before that, I would premix my powder with some oil taken from the batch and found it mixed easier than with water to make a slurry. When mixing in the batch I would mix then wait for the floaties and catch them under my SB push them to the bottom and mix. There is no question that it always works to mix your gm powder into a slurry before mixing in. I am just lazy. I also mix my micas directly into my soap batter with no speckling issues but the batter has to be at emulsion for this method to work well. That little tidbit of info may not have been mentioned.

 

[Carly B]

I put the goatsmilk powder in my measured melted oils and stick blend it, then add my lye water. I haven't had any issues with white spots in the soap or undissolved powder. I works great for me, although I have heard one or two others on the forum don't like the results in their soap when it's done that way.

 

[TheGecko]

I actually see people not premixing all kinds of things like TiO2, micas, etc and their soap looks great. I tried not premixing that stuff and I got worse results, so for me everything is premixed.

I pre-mix my TD with water. Micas go straight into oils or batter. Powders go into batter. Oxides and clays, I generally mix with water unless I want speckles.

 

[CatahoulaBubble]

I just freeze my goat milk or cows milk in ice cube trays then once frozen I pop out the cubes in the correct amount and then pour in the lye and then I stir stir stir stir stir until all of the ice milk is melted and the temp is around 75*F. Once it's melted the ice and the temp has lowered it can sit til I have my oils all ready to go if needed. It will thicken up if it sits but just stir it to loosen then add it to the oils. I've only burned milk once when I had something come up and I couldn't stir it as much as I wanted to and some of the sugars burned and I had large orange rocks in the bottom of my pitcher. The stirring is what really keeps it from burning. The same thing applies for any liquid that has a high sugar content. you risk burning it if you don't stir constantly.

 

[tammy sue starks]

if you make a goat milk soap exclusively with hard oils and you need to keep it cool, how do you know you aren't in a false trace?

 

[CatahoulaBubble]

if you make a goat milk soap exclusively with hard oils and you need to keep it cool, how do you know you aren't in a false trace?

You want your oils to be at least 86*F once you add the lye it will heat up again anyway.