So is your position that plastic is natural and not synthetic? Just trying to understand your stance since you seem to be using some of these words quite differently from how they're generally used here.
Help with DIY Daily Shower Spray
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And your point is….?
Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
The mix I made is 2C distilled water, 1C each alcohol and peroxide, 1 good shot cascade rinse aid, 1/2 tsp Dawn and 2 tsp citric acid. This mix kills germs and prevents mold, doesn’t ruin metal, prevents soap scum and eats hard water deposits. So the solution mixed with acid until dissolved, poured into an opaque bottle to not kill off the peroxide, rinse aid and Dawn last.
Bubble Agent
Well-Known Member
For those of you who continue to talk about unrelated topics of plastic, syntethic ingredients, syndets or other topics NOT pertaining to @TennisGirl questions, could you please move this discussion into a new thread instead, and continue your conversation there? That would be helpful. Understandably she is frustrated about this hijack, and have communicated this very clearly.
Yes I have. I love essential oils in my cleaning products, and add them to everything I make (in safe usage rates). Poly80 is very usefull when I have to get them dispersed in a spray without alcohol, or if the alcohol content is not high enough to help disperse the oils.
Depending on the cleaning product I make (I make powders, scrubs, liquids and dishsoaps) my dosage is different for the poly.
But in the sprays I use on glass or mirrors I make sure to not use to much as it will make streaks. BUT since you are making a rinse off shower spray to prevent build-up you don`t have to worry about streaks. So you can use between a half a treaspoon to a full teaspoon of poly80 per. litre of water/liquids (that will be 33oz of liquid per google).
But I say that with a caveat, because I don`t know how hard water you have, or other things in your recipe that can skew the results. So the best is to start low, and go from there.
Since essential oils are so concentrated by nature I don`t need much poly80 to help with the emulsification, and use a half a teaspoon in my general blend. But it also depend on the essential oils I use. Citrus oils takes a bit more poly80 than pine or eucalyptus etc, at least in my experience.
If I have been unclear on something please let me know, English is not my original language so I apologize if there is something I have missed
Yes I have. I love essential oils in my cleaning products, and add them to everything I make (in safe usage rates). Poly80 is very usefull when I have to get them dispersed in a spray without alcohol, or if the alcohol content is not high enough to help disperse the oils.
Depending on the cleaning product I make (I make powders, scrubs, liquids and dishsoaps) my dosage is different for the poly.
But in the sprays I use on glass or mirrors I make sure to not use to much as it will make streaks. BUT since you are making a rinse off shower spray to prevent build-up you don`t have to worry about streaks. So you can use between a half a treaspoon to a full teaspoon of poly80 per. litre of water/liquids (that will be 33oz of liquid per google).
But I say that with a caveat, because I don`t know how hard water you have, or other things in your recipe that can skew the results. So the best is to start low, and go from there.
Since essential oils are so concentrated by nature I don`t need much poly80 to help with the emulsification, and use a half a teaspoon in my general blend. But it also depend on the essential oils I use. Citrus oils takes a bit more poly80 than pine or eucalyptus etc, at least in my experience.
If I have been unclear on something please let me know, English is not my original language so I apologize if there is something I have missed
There is no argument that SCI isn’t natural, the point is, of the purely synthetic ingredients, how much is there and has it been deemed harmful or beneficial in those amounts. This started off about PS80 (I believe) for a person with known severe skin reactions. PS80 has a well known history of skin reactions. I was simply offering a more natural alternative with a history of being gentle on the skin. I think this has been discussed ad nauseum and everyone’s positions have been well established. There is no need for further discussion on the matter.
Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
Curious…I just now saw the thread cause I’m new here…but, why add an emulsifier to daily shower spray? EO aren’t supposed to be used heavily anyway snd what little is used should blend in with alcohol without using an emulsifier.
If I remember the original post correctly, there was no ETOH in the formula and although just shaking it would be fine, she was concerned about high concentrations of EOs on her skin during spraying.
Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
In a shower spray using EO, let’s say patchouli, i would only use maybe 3 drops per quart. These materials are extremely concentrated and once the carrier evaporates, the EO is left. If she was really concerned with high concentrations of EO, she should use less or use a fragrance oil instead or use nothing in the spray then make up for fragrance in a room spray. Then again, it’s up to her.
Hence the beginning of this debate, my position being, if you're concerned about skin reactions from EO's, PS80 is an odd choice as it has a history of skin reactions...there are gentler options.
Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
I agree. Plus it makes the entire mix more complicated. I think with this, I’d use the old acronym KISS. Keep it as simple as possible yet effective in what it was designed for. An emulsifier shouldn’t be needed
The latest posts are bordering on impolite, which is probably why the OP hasn't returned. She sounds like she's pretty aware of what her skin can handle, and what it can't. Since she listed PS80 as an option, then I don't see where we have to question that. I have a lot of sensitivities but can use PS80 with no problem. Some of my friends have almost no sensitivities, but can't use CapB, whereas I have no problem with it. Everyone is different, and since she's explained herself very well, I think people should just answer the question.
EDITED: she also said she's highly sensitive to ANY undiluted EO on her skin, so she isn't talking about "high concentrations of EOs" at all. I am the same way, so I can understand the desire to be extra careful. And I have to agree that I like my EOs evenly dispersed. Shaking and spraying leaves oil spots for me.
EDITED: she also said she's highly sensitive to ANY undiluted EO on her skin, so she isn't talking about "high concentrations of EOs" at all. I am the same way, so I can understand the desire to be extra careful. And I have to agree that I like my EOs evenly dispersed. Shaking and spraying leaves oil spots for me.
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Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
I guess I’m lost. I thought this was about shower cleaner or after shower cleaner like “clean shower” so spraying this all over the skin makes no sense to me. Or is this to be used instead of bathing
No, the OP is making a daily shower treatment to spray down the shower walls and doors (or curtain) after each shower. The purpose is to fight/prevent soap scum buildup. These products are usually sprayed right after the shower is turned off, while one is still inside the shower stall with no PPE (i.e., naked). Thus, there is a strong potential for getting some of the product on the skin due to the misting from the spray bottle.
As I understood what she wrote, she simply wants to add a touch of EO to make it smell nice. However, she absolutely cannot get undiluted EOs on her skin, so she has to solubize them somehow to ensure that any part of the spray that may touch her skin does not include any amount of undiluted EO.
Yes, she could omit the EOs. Yes, she can perhaps use alcohol or syndet dish soap instead of PS80. But her questions were: how much PS80 or possibly RA should she use to solubize the EOs, and would the RA interact with the CA if she used it in that formula.
Somehow the entire thread morphed into an argument about "what is a syndet," and a lecture about the "issues" with PS80, and an admonishment how she should just "shake and spray" (which she already said is not an option for her). I'm sure all that off-topic advice was offered with good intent, but the tone was... off. I'll leave it at that.
As I understood what she wrote, she simply wants to add a touch of EO to make it smell nice. However, she absolutely cannot get undiluted EOs on her skin, so she has to solubize them somehow to ensure that any part of the spray that may touch her skin does not include any amount of undiluted EO.
Yes, she could omit the EOs. Yes, she can perhaps use alcohol or syndet dish soap instead of PS80. But her questions were: how much PS80 or possibly RA should she use to solubize the EOs, and would the RA interact with the CA if she used it in that formula.
Somehow the entire thread morphed into an argument about "what is a syndet," and a lecture about the "issues" with PS80, and an admonishment how she should just "shake and spray" (which she already said is not an option for her). I'm sure all that off-topic advice was offered with good intent, but the tone was... off. I'll leave it at that.
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Justcallmewillie
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. I read parts of her post. Peroxide does degrade in heat and light but not in an opaque sprayer. I gave her a recipe I use here snd it works great but I don’t add fragrance cause if the alcohol. She’s probably not even reading any of this so it’s wasted effort. If she can’t get EO on her skin then she shouldn’t use it or spray the shower down when she’s out of it. For shower spray I’d use FO. Since the fair trade act, EO have skyrocketed in price. Why spray that down the drain? Or maybe she enjoys spraying gold down the drain…
She said she can't get undiluted EO on her skin. Big difference.
She has a recipe she likes; she spelled it out in the very first post. While it was kind to offer yours, she wasn't asking for a recipe -- just advice on the amount of PS80 or something else to solubize the EOs that she wants to use.
That may not be what you'd choose to do, but this is her post, and those were her questions. It's bad form to insist that her objectives are dumb and that she should do things your way. This forum is one of the friendliest I've ever been on, and I'd like to keep it that way.
She has a recipe she likes; she spelled it out in the very first post. While it was kind to offer yours, she wasn't asking for a recipe -- just advice on the amount of PS80 or something else to solubize the EOs that she wants to use.
That may not be what you'd choose to do, but this is her post, and those were her questions. It's bad form to insist that her objectives are dumb and that she should do things your way. This forum is one of the friendliest I've ever been on, and I'd like to keep it that way.
Okay folks, in respect to the OP, it's time to return to the original topic of this thread. Please take any further discussion in regard to what is considered a synthetic or not, to a new thread.
Thank you.
To TennisGirl- whenever I am working with PS80, I find that each EO or FO is different in terms of how much PS80 is needed to get it to fully emulsify. What I do is just add it drop by drop into my otherwise completed spray in a clear beaker or glass on a tared-out scale (stirring in between drops) until I can no longer see a separation. Then I write down in my notes how may grams (and drops) of PS80 it took so that I can duplicate it for the next time.
IrishLass
Thank you.
To TennisGirl- whenever I am working with PS80, I find that each EO or FO is different in terms of how much PS80 is needed to get it to fully emulsify. What I do is just add it drop by drop into my otherwise completed spray in a clear beaker or glass on a tared-out scale (stirring in between drops) until I can no longer see a separation. Then I write down in my notes how may grams (and drops) of PS80 it took so that I can duplicate it for the next time.
IrishLass
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