Help improve my lotion recipe

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IanT

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I am a Licensed Massage Therapist as some of you may already be aware of, and I make all of my own lotions that I use on my clients...I think its an excellent selling point for customers....


Ok here is what I am working with:

This Recipe is a newer version of my last recipe which needed a bit more heat before the oils and water were combined, as well as a little bit more oil.

The Previous Recipe Was:

75% H20
14% Oil { 8% Almond, 2% Avocado, 3% Jojoba, 1% Aloe Butter}
6% Ewax
3% Stearic Acid
.1 % Potassium Sorbate ( I dont think I measured this correctly the first time due to scale malfunction ...)

This Recipe Was nice once I added more oil to it... I want some more glide out of the lotion so I added more oil in this next version and less water.

The New Recipe is:

73.9% Water
17% Oil {10% Almond, 4% Avocado, 3% Jojoba}
6% E wax
3% Stearic
.1% Potassium Sorbate



RESULT: I think I might want to try using less stearic acid in the next batch and more oil, this seemed very nice, but was quite a thick recipe... I would like it to be more liquid and not absorb into the skin as fast...In addition, I think that it "balled up" on the skin a little bit as I was using it, though Im not sure if the balling was attributed to the clients' dead skin being rubbed off or the lotion...

My question is how do you think this recipe looks and what can I do to improve it? How much stearic should i use if I want it to be just a bit less thick? 2%? or should I drop it to 1%?

I LOVE this lotion, but once it is cooled and such it seems just a TAD too thick, and I end up using about 1.5oz per client... which is alot I think...


I do not add fragrance to my lotions due to different needs of my clients and allergy concerns, as well as cost... I think its more cost effective for me (and better smelling=fresher smelling) when I dont put any EO's in the lotion, instead i take a bottle of EO (or a few EO's) to the clients home and dop a few drops (1-5 drops) onto a cotton ball/paper towel or the face-rest cover...this way its right in the clients nose and they can smell it... I have had people literally fall asleep (complete with drool and all...) because theyre so relaxed, and I find that my lotions bring me a lot of referral business because it sets me aside from other therapists in the area... I know of none who make their lotions, or even know what go into the lotions that they use.... most just know there is sweet almond or jojoba or sesame oil in some of the lotions and past that theyve got no idea....

this way i use 1-2 drops per client instead of a few ounces of EO per batch... I think itll save me money over time...


wow that was a lil long-winded...but thanks for any and all help!!

I love telling my clients that you could literally eat this lotion out of the container with a spoon should feel inclined to do so...

:)
 
Ian, I admit, I haven't read your whole post, only the recipe.

My advice - BTMS. It gives the most loverly feel to lotions. I've tried tweaking without, but I'm never happy.

PM me if you want me to mail you a few ounces to play with before you buy.
 
Oh and ditch the potassium sorbate unless you're challenge testing your recipe and doing a APC on every batch. I've never found it reliable.
 
Deda said:
Ian, I admit, I haven't read your whole post, only the recipe.

My advice - BTMS. It gives the most loverly feel to lotions. I've tried tweaking without, but I'm never happy.

PM me if you want me to mail you a few ounces to play with before you buy.

lol I will forgive you for not reading the whole thing.... what is BTMS?

Im wondering whether I should even use a preservative at all , i store all my lotion in the fridge, and I ususally use it within 1-3 weeks of being made as I only make 24-28 oz batches...

lol and run that by me one more time about the Potassium Sorbate?

that kinda confused me lol challenge test? APC?

:oops:

The thing that attracted me about Potassium Sorbate is that its food grade... so if im going to sub it out I want to fill it with a like alternative...
 
now Im really trying to stay away from synthetics as preservatives but it seems like I have no choice?

i might make a batch with no stearic and see what happens... hmmmmmmm now ya got me thinking :)
 
I am making lotion without stearic acid. It isn't too thin and not too thick. It looks as a cream, but when you apply it to the skin it behaves as a lotion, if you know what I mean. I use e-wax at 6-7%.
 
IanT said:
now Im really trying to stay away from synthetics as preservatives but it seems like I have no choice?

i might make a batch with no stearic and see what happens... hmmmmmmm now ya got me thinking :)

Yanno the way I look at it is that a leetle bit of synthetic preservative is a whole lot better than an invasion of stormtroopin' all-natural greeblies :wink:
There are some kindlier preservatives out there.Optiphen Plus is paraben free.Suttocide is one I don't know much about but have noticed it used in some 'natural' marketed products. There's a lot of really really good info at southern soapers
http://southernsoapers.com/news/classes/
 
alright ...next batch im going to try without the stearic... now the percent that I take out for the stearic should I add that to the oils?... and would that effect how much ewax i needed to emulsify it all?

Im going to look into the preservative suggestions everyone mentioned and research what I feel the best option would be for me...

Thanks so much for the help!!!
 
hmmmm... their ingredient list looks a bit dodgy - it lists the essential oils quite high up which suggests their list isn't in order from largest to smallest quantity. Also there doesn't seem to be emulsifier or preservative listed, but they're probably in there... I wonder what else is omitted! :?
 
I have had very good results by subbing aloe juice for water and including glycerin in my lotion recipes. Maybe you could do 6% of one of the oils and use 2% glycerin. :)
 
carolynp said:
I have had very good results by subbing aloe juice for water and including glycerin in my lotion recipes. Maybe you could do 6% of one of the oils and use 2% glycerin. :)

And I use aloe vera gel,and I don't like glycerine & opt for sodium lactate instead.....aaahhh Ian,I foresee much lotiony experimentation in your future!! :lol:
 
Manda said:
hmmmm... their ingredient list looks a bit dodgy - it lists the essential oils quite high up which suggests their list isn't in order from largest to smallest quantity. Also there doesn't seem to be emulsifier or preservative listed, but they're probably in there... I wonder what else is omitted! :?

sclerotium rolfsii gum - is listed on that page. I didn't know what it was so looked it up. Apparently it acts as an emulsifier. Could be of interest.

Here is where I read it:
http://www.auroma.com/Everyday-Aromathe ... ing-agent/
 
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