Hard and Conditioning

[perfectsoap]

I am trying to figure out a recipe that makes a hard bar that is very conditioning. With the soap calculator if I go conditioning it goes soft and if I go hard it become less conditioning. If anyone know something that would make both high in a bar of soap, I'd love to know. Oh I don't want to use Stearic Acid or such
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[MikeInPdx]

Well....soapcalc says it's a soft bar, but it lies in this case.....try a castile or a bastile soap. Either 100% olive oil or maybe 80% olive oil with 20% coconut. Both of these, aged properly, will give you weapon-like soap! You may prefer adding the coconut because it helps counteract the slimy feel of olive oil, and makes it trace faster.

If you specify 40% lye solution in soapcalc, you will get a batch that traces faster and takes less time to get hard.

 

[Lindy]

Try 75% Olive Oil & 25% Coconut Oil - this is called a Bastille and it makes a nice bar of soap that is moisturizing. You can add things to this like Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Vitamin E Oil, Castor Oil, etc.... You can also use Aloe Vera Extract or Gel, Honey, Goat`s Milk - the list is endless....

 

[perfectsoap]

Thank you!
I'll give it a try!
Are these good to re-batch or hand-mill? That way I can add some goodies then
Jeff

 

[perfectsoap]

weapon-like soap! What a great description!

 

[Lindy]

Absolutely!! If you leave it unscented then you have all this soap to play with in re-batching / Hand Milling (same thing).

 

[perfectsoap]

Do you think when re-batching it is better to do it sooner or wait for full cure?

 

[kellistarr]

Do you think when re-batching it is better to do it sooner or wait for full cure?

IMHO, I would not wait for a full cure because soap will be much harder.
I find that it takes longer to grate, also. Most importantly, I find that it takes much longer to melt and more liquid is required if you are meaning for it to become a smoother consistency. Besides, you don't really need it to be a full cure, when you're cooking it by melting it anyway. I find that the best method is to make the soap, let it sit for a few days, even a week or two, then grate it up and then it's ready whenever you decide to make soap.

 

[perfectsoap]

Thanks!!!

 

[perfectsoap]

Ok folks I have made this:
75% OO
20% CO
05% Castor
Goats milk for the water
35% lye solution in soap calc.
It turned out great! I m very happy with it!
I just shredded all of it into bags and...
I don't know if I should leave the bags open, close them and or refrigerate them? Any thoughts?
Thanks for all the help so far!
Jeff

 

[MikeInPdx]

If you're not going to handmill right away, I'd leave the bags open for a few weeks to let the shreds cure, and then store them in a cool dry place.

 

[carebear]

If you're not going to handmill right away, I'd leave the bags open for a few weeks to let the shreds cure, and then store them in a cool dry place.

I'd say do not leave them open - the exposure to air is to help dry out the soap, but if you plan to rebatch it then keep it moist - close the bag.

 

[Guest]

Oh I don't want to use Stearic Acid or such
Thanks,
Jeff

Is stearic acid bad???

 

[MikeInPdx]

Is stearic acid bad???

Not at all....it just hardens up the bars, makes for a stable lather and a fast trace.

OTOH.....it is one more thing to store, and the trace can be nightmarish with the wrong fragrance oil.

 

[perfectsoap]

Well the recipe I followed said to melt the soap to liquid. I could not get it to liquid, so I ended up whipping it into floating soap.
Now looking back, when the recipe said heat to liquid, does that mean like taffy or caramel? That is what I had, or does it need to be like syrup?
Any opinions here?
The recipe I had said 12oz soap and 9 oz water, it that correct? I have since seen just enough water to moisten.
Thanks for everyones input.
Jeff

 

[carebear]

liquid rebatch? in my dreams. I get slop or glop.

And 9 oz of water for 12 oz of soap is WAY too much. I use no more than 2 tsp for a pound of fresh soap - often none, a bit more if it's dry. And I prefer milk over water.

Then again, my rebatches suck - but I'm correct about not adding that much water - just a touch.

 

[perfectsoap]

I tried again with less water (thanks carebear, I believe your right :wink: ).
I did it different though. I put my soap in a zip lock bag added 2-3 ounces of water and sealed it, them that bag into another and then a third. I put it in a stock pot of hot water (medium heat) and left it uncovered for about 15-20 min. I then went in with my heavy lye gloves and turned the bag over. I did this about four times and 1 to 1 1/2 hours, I watched tv while waiting . The reason I chose to leave the the lid off was I when I tried it with the lid on it got too hot and the zip lock bag turned into a ballon and I thought it might explode. I then mixed in some vid E, silk, shea and EO, mixed by mushing it in the bag over and over, cut the corner of the bag and pushed it out like icing into my mold. It looks wonderful, I'll report on how it turns out!
Thanks for everyones input!!!
There are video tutorials on how I did this, but I might make one myself if it all works out! Very little mess this way and it didn't take watching the whole time.
Jeff

 

[beachgurl]

Yes, like Mike said, SA is great, but it will trace and trace quickly .. that was my first soap on a stick If you're going to use SA, you have to work quickly (well that's been my experience anyway)

 

[MikeInPdx]

liquid rebatch? in my dreams. I get slop or glop.

And 9 oz of water for 12 oz of soap is WAY too much. I use no more than 2 tsp for a pound of fresh soap - often none, a bit more if it's dry. And I prefer milk over water.

Then again, my rebatches suck - but I'm correct about not adding that much water - just a touch.

That proportion of water sounds familiar.....one of my (discarded) soaping books suggested that.....I ended up with shrunken, warped little things instead of recognizable soap.