Gel Spots

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ravenscents

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I've been trying my hand at river rock soap with 100% CO, pumice powder and AC. The first photo is my three try so far. The second photo is my first try and looks great.

I've been keeping decent notes (to myself) as to temp and SF. My attempts (L-R)

1. First try was a success in color and swirl 25% SF, AC and TD
2. Second try I upped the SF to 30%
3. Third SF is still 30%, and I dropped the TD, now with a very pronounced Gel spot.

I'm insulating a box with a towel to force gel. I'm soaping at 80-85 degrees.

Would upping the SF force gel spots? I don't know how to prevent them.
 

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By gel spots, do you mean the dark circle in the center of the far right soap in the first picture that could be partial gel? I really don't know if the 30% SF is the factor or not, but I can suggest ways to avoid it.

Personally I have not experienced partial gel with a 100% CO soap before, even in an individual mold, so I hope what I have to suggest might be useful.

I looked back at my notes on the 100% salt bars with a 20% SF that I made 2 years ago in individual molds and it appears I did not add any heat to those soaps, although I can't say that I remember for sure, it's just that my notes do not indicate I CPOP'd, so I really doubt that I did. I haven't made any since, so that's my only reference for individual 100% CO soap bars. My notes show that the batter was at 90° F when poured into the molds and 109° F 2 hours later, so that tells me I left them out on the counter without adding more heat. I know I did not get partial gel, and the size of the cured soaps were about 3.4 to 4 ounces, so I suspect they are similar in size to your river stone soaps. I still have several of those bars and just checked them. Of course, our recipes are different in that I used an equal amount of salt to oil in my formula and your soap is without salt and uses pumice and AC, although you don't say how much pumice. And we used different colorants, but I doubt the colorants are factors to consider in this case. I am not sure if pumice is a factor to consider or not. I've used it several times, but have never noticed it mattering in relation to gel.

Because they are in individual molds and you have obviously had partial gel with the method you are using, I would provide more consistent heat than wrapping in a box in a towel.

One method would be to put down a heating pad and place the molds close together on a tray on the heating pad, then cover with an inverted box and heavy towel to help hold in the heat.

Another method some use is to use an insulated box, much like a cooler, either styrofoam or the type that Igloo makes.

Another method is to CPOP (cold-process-oven-process). I would hesitate to use CPOP with 100% CO soap, though. But if you want to give it a try here is what I do.

When I want to force gel in individual molds I CPOP, setting my oven to it's lowest setting then when it reaches 150° F on the oven thermometer, I turn off the oven. I place the individual molds on a tray inside the oven, cover them with an inverted cardboard box and place a towel on top of that. Then leave them alone for some time (depends on the recipe.) To check them, when I think they might be close to ready, I use my InfraRed thermometer to check surface, sides and around parts of the soaps inside the oven. If they are too cold, I turn the heat back on to re-heat and repeat.

But with 100% CO soap without a lot of additive (such as in a salt bar) I'm not sure I'd even consider putting in the oven. High CO soap has always heated up really fast for me. It's what I use to make laundry soap and it gets really hot really fast and becomes super hard really fast, too.
 
My experience is my salt soap in individual molds never gel unless I put them in a box and cover with towels or place covered in a warm oven. I make a couple large batches of salt soap a year. However, if I do them in a loaf I just put a light cover on it and it gels on it's own.
 
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