Fragrance caused CP to seize, what can I do?

[math ace]

Last night I decided to test my recent order of Fragrances. One of the fragrances was extremely naughty and made my CP batter seize.

I was soaping at 90 degrees with full water. I mixed my Mica in the batter before adding the fragrance. All the rest of my samples acted fine.

I really like the naughty fragrance. Do you have any suggestions for working with a fragrance that produces soap on a stick? Are there any tricks that I could try next time around?

 

[dixiedragon]

What's the fragrance?

Hot process is a good choice. Some people don't like the bumpy/rustic top, but if you shake a bit of mica over the top it looks pretty and covers up the bumps/cracks.

 

[math ace]

What's the fragrance?

Hot process is a good choice.

The fragrance is "orange" fragrance, not EO.

I haven't mastered the HP technique yet. I've tried a couple of HP variations for reprocessing some CP failures. The "rustic" texture didn't put me in a happy place if you know what I'm saying.

 

[DeeAnna]

Another thing is to maybe wait before you make a commitment to this particular scent. I think it's pretty well known that citrux EOs fade, but people in another recent thread were talking about citrus FOs fading over time too.

That said, it's always good to have a backup plan for dealing with difficult scents. When CP soap batter seizes, you can sometimes stop for a short bit to let the batter heat up to its gel temperature, and then you can switch over to an impromptu hot process method.

 

[KiwiMoose]

Another thought - try mixing your orange FO half and half with orange EO. Citrus Eos are known for slowing trace, so this might counteract your fast acting FO. But as DeeAnna says - be prepared for some fragrance fading.

 

[dibbles]

Or mix with a well behaved FO. Lavenders, patchouli, sandalwood and champagne are a few that I like with orange. Otherwise, I'd just look for a different orange FO. I don't think I've ever had one seize.

 

[math ace]

Another thing is to maybe wait before you make a commitment to this particular scent. I think it's pretty well known that citrux EOs fade, but people in another recent thread were talking about citrus FOs fading over time too.

I think you might of called this. I unmolded my soap samples this evening and the orange FO does not smell as rich as oob. This does not bode well for a long lasting scent.

When CP soap batter seizes, you can sometimes stop for a short bit to let the batter heat up to its gel temperature, and then you can switch over to an impromptu hot process method.

I was hoping this would happen. I made 12 sample bars last night. The one that seized was bar #2. By the time I got to the last bar, the seized bar didn't look any different!

I thought I had watched a video where they recommended putting your troublesome fragrance oil in the oils before adding the lye water.

 

[KiwiMoose]

I'd just look for a different orange FO. I don't think I've ever had one seize.

True that - seems odd that an orange would seize.
Also - I have added the FO to the warmed oils at times like you have stated @math ace. I don't whether it's just me, but sometimes I get the feeling that a cold FO added to warm batter can cause issues.

 

[cerelife]

I always add my fragrance to my oils before adding the lye, but honestly it's just habit to make sure that I don't forget them!
I have a special recipe with a high lard content for my problematic fragrances since lard tends to slow things down a good bit.

 

[dixiedragon]

I thought I had watched a video where they recommended putting your troublesome fragrance oil in the oils before adding the lye water.

I do that for FOs that are a bit troublesome, not my soap-on-a-stick FOs.

You can use sodium lactate which creates a smoother pour when doing HP. I also like to use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Kitchens-Parchment-SmartGrid-Non-Stick/dp/B00K282KY4

I put the sheet on top of the hot soap and gently smooth, squish and pat with my gloved hands to get the soap as smooth and even as possible. Then leave the sheet on top of the soap until it cools. One of the difficulties with getting a smooth top on the HP is that it is sticky so you end up with waves, peaks, whatever when you pull your spreading tool away. This avoids that.

also, you can just make the soap a bit taller and then slice or plane away the bumpy top.

 

[DeeAnna]

It depends on how the fragrance behaves and what your goals are for your soap.

If the fragrance behaves nicely or only accelerates a little bit, I usually add it to the oils before I add the lye solution.

If the fragrance is a really troublesome one and quickly seizes or rices, I'll most likely not use it or I'll use it with a hot process method.

If the fragrance is a medium fast accelerator, I'll typically stir it into the batter right before I put the soap in the mold, so I get the most time to get the batter emulsified and ready to pour. And plan a very simple design.

Sometimes you can use a fragrance like this to your advantage. For example, I sometimes do a multiple layer pour where I want each layer to remain separate with a pencil line between each layer. I add the fragrance to one portion of batter, pour it in the mold, wait a little bit for the soap to firm slightly, add the fragrance to the next portion, pour, wait, and so on.

 

[dixiedragon]

Are you sure this is a safe for CP fragrance? Can you post a link? I'm concerned you may be using a craft store candle FO that is not soap soap. One person even tried soaping with Dollar Tree room fragrance oils - which are absolutely not skin safe!

 

[math ace]

Are you sure this is a safe for CP fragrance? Can you post a link? I'm concerned you may be using a craft store candle FO that is not soap soap. One person even tried soaping with Dollar Tree room fragrance oils - which are absolutely not skin safe!

No worries there. I'm very careful about purchasing only skin safe fragrances.

IFRA statement for this fragrance says up to 20% safe usage for cat 9 - soap.

 

[math ace]

I also like to use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Kitchens-Parchment-SmartGrid-Non-Stick/dp/B00K282KY4

FYI:. I've used these before for another project. Keep an eye out at Dollar tree for these. I found them there several times this year! I love the pre-cut size and can't complain when they are $1 a box.

 

[Alfa_Lazcares]

I basically do what DeeAnna says. i mix the lye and color and hand mix the FO, have the mold ready and pour the moment its starts to thicken. If I want to texture the top I just reserve a bit of batter and pour it on top of the fragranced portion. Most of my FO accelerate so I just learned to live with that.

 

[SoapySuds]

If you don’t mind shrinkage, add some more water. Like double the water and hand stir, no stick blender.

Expect a really long cure time. Individual molds are better than loaves or slabs when upping the water. Flip and rotate daily for the first two weeks.

 

[math ace]

If you don’t mind shrinkage, add some more water. Like double the water and hand stir, no stick blender.

Expect a really long cure time. Individual molds are better than loaves or slabs when upping the water. Flip and rotate daily for the first two weeks.

Thank you SoapySuds. I will give this a try.
Just to confirm - If I increase the water, I don't need to increase the lye... just increase my cure time.... CORRECT?

 

[SoapySuds]

Yes, correct.

Also, it will fill more space because of the additional water, be sure to have extra molds ready for pouring.

It will also take much longer before you can unmold them due to the amount of extra water.


Also DO NOT CPOP your soap, major separation will occur.

CP is fine, the OP will cause leakage, separation, and some of the ugliest soap you will never want to salvage with an excessive amount of water.