Formulating recipe-second set of eyes appreciated

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

qtkitty

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
16
Reaction score
10
Location
Maryland
So messing about in my head with a CP recipe for a friend who works in a high risk field. He wants a highly cleansing bar (Can tell he thinks more thick stable bubbles equals cleaning power), but not stripping to his ash prone black skin. On a regular basis he takes 2 showers a day on work days, because during regular times he says he wants to wash away the germs/dirt/residue from work. He loves coconut and dragon's blood (the classic renaissance festival incense one with heavy patchouli, which when I was getting FOs last time I picked up a dragon's blood and patchouli specifically with him in mind from Nature's Garden.) I fully understand that this will take awhile to cure and I am not against HP, but in my experience it takes a similar cure time. I have never messed with the technique of adding glycerin to be able to work with a water discount in HP so this isn't the time to contemplate that now lol.

I am thinking:
30% olive oil
30% Coconut oil
20% Palm oil
10% Caster oil
10% Shea oil
1100g oils

5% super fat

And add about 30g (aprox 2TBSP) of coconut cream, which would increase superfatting a tiny bit and introduce sugars which will increase bubbling. Or I could just add sugar to add to the bubble bump. Heck I may run 2 batches one plain and one scented, so he can have the plain to wash before work and/or his hands and second scented to relax after work.

Since it's a recipe I haven't used I am second guessing myself. Just incase something would be better I have olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, caster oil, sweet almond oil, canola oil, unrefined shea butter. I also have lard and unflavored crisco, which I don't use in my soap, but I have at my disposal. (Editing to add: I also have citric acid, glycerin, and slsa, since my kid is highly into making bathbombs, slime and things of that nature.) Any thoughts are welcome.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20200415-010138_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20200415-010138_Chrome.jpg
    261.5 KB
Last edited:
I would lower the coconut to 25 and the olive to 20, add that to the palm for a longer lasting, milder bar. Actually, I would use lard instead of palm, I find it makes a better soap but thats a personal choice.

Having a ton of bubbles and not be drying to sensitive skin is darn near impossible and 25% coconut might still be too much. I know I couldn't use it.
I use 15% coconut but its not real bubbly, still cleans just fine.

Not sure what glycerin has to do with HP and a water discount but you are right, it needs to cure just as long as CP.
 
I would also suggest cutting the coconut oil a bit. It’s up to you how much you wasn’t to cut it and where you want to place that excess. My personal # is 20% but that’s my skin in a dry winter climate. I don’t use palm but I have used (palm based) crisco, based on that experience your numbers seem good.

since you have Shea available maybe now would be a good time to experiment with a whipped Shea cream. It would help with the constant washing and keep the scent on your friend’s skin for that extra bit of relaxing after work.
 
since you have Shea available maybe now would be a good time to experiment with a whipped Shea cream. It would help with the constant washing and keep the scent on your friend’s skin for that extra bit of relaxing after work.
Great minds think alike. I am more of the mind set that soaps are wash off and just using oils to get the product you like then using more luxury oils/butters in leave on products. I haven't made any whips before. It would have to be 100% oil since I have no peservative. I have vitamin E oil, but it's not a preservative. I have unrefined shea butter which would work well with the dragon's blood smell. I personally like the unrefined shea smell and feel on the skin, but I know not everyone does.
 
As far as I remember (been a bit since I’ve looked into it) a whipped Shea is just Shea and a bit of a liquid oil to get it to whip up. You may be able to just use the Shea (melt then whip the beejeezus out of it whil it firms up) but don’t hold me to that.
 
This may sound odd but another combination I like is 39% Palm with 23% Lard, Coconut /Pko split or CO @ 17-18% in my men's fragranced soaps. I use this when I run out of Tallow. I am the odd one that has DOS issues with Lard so I do not use it in high percentages but love the feel of some lard and also love the work time Lard gives to the batter. I like Sorbitol much better than Sugar for adding to lather in soap at the rate of 1% total batch weight. Granted it adds to the expense of the soap but I find it worth the added expense.
 
My family doesn't seem to be bothered by a 30% use of coconut oil in soap. IMO, a lower amount of Castor oil (5-8%) and a higher percent of Shea Butter (15%) would be better.
 
I would use no more than 15% CO and 5% Castor Oil. I would add the remainder to the palm oil if you are completely opposed to using animal fats. If you are not opposed to animal fats, lard is your friend if you have dry ashy skin. I agree on the sugar. But I am a bubbleholic. Also, even if you have soft water, a little EDTA helps with lather.
 
Back
Top