Corrine12
Active Member
Last edited:
Unless you have good reasons to use stearic acid, I'd rather reserve this for specialty soaps like cream or shave soap, or advanced HP recipes, and increase shea butter instead (to 20%, steal 5% from olive or avocado).
LOL That is, if you don't mind waiting 3 months to cure! Not me! No thank you!There is nothing inherently wrong with the oil blend
No, I haven’t.Have you worked with stearic before?
I paid for it. I want to use it because my hardness was low.May I ask why you chose to go for free stearic acid?
Yikes! That, nor the clay are part of my recipe, not sure what happened.Are you neutralising the citric acid (adding 13.7 g extra NaOH)?
SoapMakingFriend, only calculator I useBy the way, which soap calculator is this?
My levels are all in the green.
LOL That is, if you don't mind waiting 3 months to cure! Not me! No thank you!
Look at the "Recipe Properties". Compare the values of your formula with the recommended range. An INS of 132 falls waaay short of the ideal INS 160, so-called "perfect soap".
I don't want to rain on your parade, but if it was me, I'd nix the stearic acid and reformulate the oils to bring that INS up to a reasonable number.
A small amount will accomplish this. I typically use stearic in my honey soaps, as those tend to be softer soaps, and I experimented with different percentages. See notation here I think using it in the 1-2% range will work best for that purpose. You do want to melt it separately from your oils, as it does need a bit more heat, and you'll want to soap a bit warmer than usual - for me my normal soaping range is 80F, but with stearic I bump up to 95-100F. Add the stearic right after you add the lye before stickblending.I paid for it. I want to use it because my hardness was low.
I think @ResolvableOwl meant free in the sense of isolated from the oil, rather than unpaid for...I paid for it.
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