First Ever Cold Process Soap

[dixiedragon]

If it is intended for soap at Hobby Lobby I assume it's skin safe. However, it's made for MP (melt and pour) and not CP, so you may find the fragrance morphs or vanishes. When you are beginning, it's best to buy fragrances and colors from reputable companies that specialize in soap. I like Brambleberry and Nurture Soap in particular, because they post pictures of the fragrance's performance in CP.

 

[SockPoppet]

If it is intended for soap at Hobby Lobby I assume it's skin safe. However, it's made for MP (melt and pour) and not CP, so you may find the fragrance morphs or vanishes. When you are beginning, it's best to buy fragrances and colors from reputable companies that specialize in soap. I like Brambleberry and Nurture Soap in particular, because they post pictures of the fragrance's performance in CP.

It is a really mild smell and I was disappointed that it didn't stay. Especially since I did read that fragrance tends to get softer the more the soap cures. I've heard good things about Brambleberry, so I'll check them out for the next batch!

 

[Alfa_Lazcares]

It is a really mild smell and I was disappointed that it didn't stay. Especially since I did read that fragrance tends to get softer the more the soap cures. I've heard good things about Brambleberry, so I'll check them out for the next batch!

It probably stays just fine for a melt and pour soap, but it doesnt have to go through a harsh chemical reaction that a co soap goes through. Thats why it is important you check the FO is suitable for CP, because in addtion to not sticking or morphing it can accelerate things quite a bit. Read the reviews and pick one that doesnt accelerate! At least while you are still a beginner, no need go make things harder haha.

 

[SockPoppet]

It probably stays just fine for a melt and pour soap, but it doesnt have to go through a harsh chemical reaction that a co soap goes through. Thats why it is important you check the FO is suitable for CP, because in addtion to not sticking or morphing it can accelerate things quite a bit. Read the reviews and pick one that doesnt accelerate! At least while you are still a beginner, no need go make things harder haha.

Yeah, there weren't too many reviews on the website except that it smelled good. Will keep my eye out for better ones next time!

 

[SaltedFig]

Congratulations on your first soap!

Soaps made with cold pressed olive oil (or any naturally extracted olive oil, rather than chemically extracted "pomace") take a long time to saponify, and this is especially true if they are ungelled. Anything up to 3 days can be considered quite normal for an ungelled olive soap.

A good rule of thumb is (for an otherwise well made soap):
If you poke the soap and your finger easily leaves an imprint, it's still saponifying.

Soaps high in olive can also start out with a very strong yellow colour if your oil is cold pressed. This does fade off to a soft creamy white colour (plus whatever colour your additives add - coffee will add colour of course ). It takes a long time for this fading to occur (anything up to a year later), and at first there might be just little patches of cream - this is quite normal and eventually the whole soap will turn the same colour.

And, the last thing, soaps high in olive oil need a long cure ... months rather than weeks, to see their quality. So, as pretty as your soap is going to end up being, it won't be at it's best until about this time next year (although you will get an idea of how it will end up by about Christmas). It will be just ok to use in about 8 weeks. The soap will be safe a long time before its good (poke test before tongue test )

Something fun - because this soap takes so long to saponify, you can put on some light gloves and hand-form it into soapy creations about right now! They will set up into solid soap, just the same as your molded soaps. Keep a few of your original soaps if you do - this is your first batch and it's always nice to be able see how they end up, try one out at it's best and to keep one to remember your first soap!

Can't wait to see what you make next

 

[cmzaha]

Congratulations on your first soap!

Soaps made with cold pressed olive oil (or any naturally extracted olive oil, rather than chemically extracted "pomace") take a long time to saponify, and this is especially true if they are ungelled. Anything up to 3 days can be considered quite normal for an ungelled olive soap.

A good rule of thumb is (for an otherwise well made soap):
If you poke the soap and your finger easily leaves an imprint, it's still saponifying.

It will be just ok to use in about 8 weeks. The soap will be safe a long time before its good (poke test before tongue test )

I would certainly not depend on a soap not being zappy just because you cannot poke it. I have had many a hard un-gelled soap, since my recipes make hard bars, that were still zappy until the 72 hr mark. As I mentioned before I would not zap test before 72 hrs if I know the soap did not gel. Although high Olive Soap is always better the longer it cures it is certainly acceptable to use after a 6-8 week cure time.

When you zap test do not touch your tongue to the soap. Wet a finger, swipe across the soap and lightly touch the tip of your tongue.

 

[SaltedFig]

I would certainly not depend on a soap not being zappy just because you cannot poke it. I have had many a hard un-gelled soap, since my recipes make hard bars, that were still zappy until the 72 hr mark. As I mentioned before I would not zap test before 72 hrs if I know the soap did not gel. Although high Olive Soap is always better the longer it cures it is certainly acceptable to use after a 6-8 week cure time.

When you zap test do not touch your tongue to the soap. Wet a finger, swipe across the soap and lightly touch the tip of your tongue.

Not sure why you quoted me?

cmzaha, if your soap recipe is hard when you unmold, then the poke test would be of absolutely no value to you.

It will be of use to SockPoppet, for whom I wrote it (saves zap testing too early - anything to avoid that is a good thing!).

SockPoppet, At that percentage you used, I age my olive soaps for about 18 months, but they can be quite nice at 12 months (olive oil soaps are a lot like red wine - they get better with age ).

Being your first soap, I'm sure you'll try it as soon as it's saponified - make notes on how it feels on your skin (hands only if you are trying it early - it WILL be drying!) - you'll be surprised at the differences each week (and eventually month).

Good luck with your next batch

 

[OldHippie]

I'll be honest that I can't get down to the decimals at this moment, just have a non-digital kitchen scale to weigh everything out on. I still tried to get it as close as I could.

RED FLAG! Analog scales are notoriously inaccurate, especially for small amounts (e.g. 5 oz. sodium hydroxide). You could easily have free lye left when saponification is completed. You need to use a Digital Scale to be safe. They can be had for $15-20. Get a Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer With Laser Targeting for $15 while you're at it.

 

[cmzaha]

@SaltedFig, I did not go back and reread my post, but the point was I have had quite hard soap that still zaps. You mention if it is hard it is no longer zappy. Unless I mis-read what you wrote. Not feeling spiffy tonight so maybe I did not understand what you said. I have had soft soap that does not zap and hard soap that does, so I do not know how it helps to poke in order to determine if a soap is zap free

 

[SaltedFig]

@SaltedFig, I did not go back and reread my post, but the point was I have had quite hard soap that still zaps. You mention if it is hard it is no longer zappy. Unless I mis-read what you wrote. Not feeling spiffy tonight so maybe I did not understand what you said. I have had soft soap that does not zap and hard soap that does, so I do not know how it helps to poke in order to determine if a soap is zap free

Nope. I did NOT mention that if it is hard it is no longer zappy.
It is slightly frustrating that you keep repeating I have said this. I have not.

What I said was if you poke the soap and it's soft, it's still saponifying.

For the OP, whom I wrote this, their soap is a soft, high olive soap and it works in a predictable way.

Testing the firmness of the soap is a useful pre-check, takes a moment, and is helpful for a beginner to do, to get a feel for how their soap progresses.

There's no harm in it. It's a beginner's technique. The suggestion was not written for you. (sorry you are not feeling spiffy btw ... )

 

[dixiedragon]

I agree with OldHippie you do need a digital food scale (not a postal scale). I often see them at Bargain Hunt for cheap.

 

[LiLiSoapz]

I don't know if this is relevant or not due to the recipe, analog scale, and newness of the soap, but I've found (in the three batches I've made thus far that is), that the splatterings found on the edge of my molds were not the same as the main soap.

I zap tested those areas of my soap and got zapped, yet the main soap would be zap free. I don't know if perhaps I was mistaken. I assumed it had something to do with the smaller splattering not having the benefit of bulk in order to saponify at the same rate as the rest of the soap that resided in the mold.

If my theory is correct, the small piece that you tested may not have been a great indicator as to the readiness of the rest of the batch. That being said, I wouldn't try it on my face and waiting a few days wouldn't hurt before trying a zap test.

Again, I'm new too, so I could be way off.