Expediting the curing process?

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BlissMadeSoap

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern Arizona
Hello all, I'm new to soap making and have many questions. I'll start with this one.

I've read that the saponification portion of the curing process only takes a few days, after saponification is complete the remaining time is simply waiting for excess water to evaporate from the bars.

My question is, why am I sitting around waiting 2-6 weeks for a full cure? Why can't I just put the soap outside in warm weather or even put the soap in a food dehydrator to speed up the process?

Thanks
 
Okay, I did search before posting but didn't find an answer. After I posted my question related posts showed up and I found the answer to the dehydrator question. As I understand it, it destroys the soap by warping it and making it ugly.

What about setting it outside in warm weather but sheltered from direct sunlight?
 
Okay, I did search before posting but didn't find an answer. After I posted my question related posts showed up and I found the answer to the dehydrator question. As I understand it, it destroys the soap by warping it and making it ugly.

What about setting it outside in warm weather but sheltered from direct sunlight?

It would have to be a dry area since humidity during curing can lead to dos.
 
Someone asked a similar question today so I will add the link to that thread. Their question was more along the lines of what is the curing process. http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f11/curing-process-32821/

I cannot speak for letting soap cure outside but the curing process is more than just getting moisture out. After a few days most soap is still not ready to be used even if it has officially become soap. Often lye is still breaking down, oils are still being reabsorbed or released. I'm new to this too but I've been testing things on me so I can start to learn differences between certain stages of the soap process. After I made my first soap I let it sit for a few days and washed my hands with it. Although it did not burn my skin felt a little tingle and dry. At a week I washed my hands again. This time the feel of the soap was completely different on my hands but still made my hand feel dry. At 2 weeks less dry but not great.
I made an olive oil soap which takes the longest time to cure. Letting the soap cure with time gives it properties you do not achieve with forcing the process.
Someone in the other post said it great. "Think of it like a fine wine or cheese."

Peek at that one. I'm curious to see if others cure outside too.
 
The soap becomes milder over time, not just evaporating the water in it for a longer lasting bar. Try your soap at 1 week, 2 weeks and 4-6 weeks and see if you can tell the difference. Even my HP gets a 3-4 week cure because it just feels better after having a cure. Even liquid soap benefits from a week or two's wait before using.
 
I don't know remotely all of the chemistry and physics of soap, but what I have learned is that a bar of soap is not a big solid piece of ... well ... soap. Soap is made of sheets of big, long soap molecules separated by layers of tiny water molecules and water-soluble salts. It is not really a solid -- it's a complex mixture of solid and liquid phase components.

The soap structure, as I understand it, reminds me of the clay found in soil. Clay has a similar layered structure and chemically active properties. These qualities give clay the unique ability to adsorb then slowly release water and nutrients. Plants thrive much better in soil with some clay in it for this reason. But I digress...

As clay dries out, the water gradually migrates from between the sheets of clay molecules. What is left between the clay sheets is an increasingly concentrated soup of water-soluble molecules and ions dissolved in the water that remains. As the clay gets drier and drier, the clay layers compress tightly, trapping the water solution in its structure. Very dry clay is difficult to rehydrate. The sheets have to open up again to allow water into the structure so re-hydration can occur. That can take a LOT of soaking.

If soap behaves even a little bit like clay, it will release water fairly slowly during its cure due to its layered structure. Low humidity and moderate warmth will certainly be helpful and necessary, but the curing process is not remotely the same as just evaporating the water off a wet sidewalk. It can be helped along a little bit, but can't be hurried a lot.

When the soap cures long enough, excess water will have migrated out of the soap structure and the sheets of soap molecules will be tightly packed against each other. This will make the soap physically harder, and the tightly packed layers will also reduce the water solubility of the soap.

I suspect there are other more subtle chemical changes in the soap molecules during this curing process that contribute to the change in feel and lather, but that's a topic I don't have much of a clue about.

--DeeAnna

PS: A very rough analogy -- take a half dozen sheets of plastic food wrap. Lay one sheet flat on the counter and spray the top surface with water. Lay a second sheet smoothly on top. Spray it with water. Lay a third sheet on top ... and so on. Now try to evaporate the water from between the layers of plastic. A fan will help ... a little. Low humidity will help ... slowly. Too much heat will just cause the plastic to melt or distort. That's not going to be a fast process no matter what you do. The best solution -- low humidity, moderate warmth, and patience.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top