EO in Hot Process vs Cold Process

[Redglade]

I've read in a few places that EO's last longer in hot process soap because they don't come in contact with any lye that can break them down, leaving only the scent and none of the benefits. Is there any truth to this? Is this something that could actually be tested (or has been) or is it personal observation?

 

[Peachy Clean Soap]

I think it depends on the EO & FO' I've soaped HP & CP & it depends on amount of scent used' What scent it is & the flash point of the EO. HP is very hot even after jell stage when you would add your EO. So try choosing an EO W/ a higher flash point & a stronger scent Would help.

 

[Redglade]

I think it depends on the EO & FO' I've soaped HP & CP & it depends on amount of scent used' What scent it is & the flash point of the EO. HP is very hot even after jell stage when you would add your EO. So try choosing an EO W/ a higher flash point & a stronger scent Would help.

Thanks for the response! I've been trying to decide which process I might prefer, but there doesn't seem to be one that is hugely preferable over the other, except that CP does have crisper colors most of the time. Guess I'll just have to experiment and find out what I like the best.

 

[Peachy Clean Soap]

Thanks for the response! I've been trying to decide which process I might prefer, but there doesn't seem to be one that is hugely preferable over the other, except that CP does have crisper colors most of the time. Guess I'll just have to experiment and find out what I like the best.

Yes' the more we experiment the more we learn' sometimes in our biggest mishaps turns out to be a fantastic Win' in discovering something fantastic' despite what the standard norm is. Happy Soaping

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Whether CP or HP, EOs are notrious for fading in about 6 months after making the soap. I don't mean to discourage you from using EOs but you do need to do a bit of research to help "fix" the scent. There are so many variables come into play:
The nature of the EO itself: Top notes tend to fade faster than bottom notes. Blends that include an "anchor" like Oakmoss Absolute (10%) will last longest.
The Oils/Fats/Butters used: From my experience, high % of lard and shea butter retain scent longer.
The addition of 1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon PPO of dry materials like activated charcoal, clay, powder, flour, starch, etc. help to "stick" scent.
The jury isn't in yet, but as little as 10% soy wax may help.

 

[Redglade]

Whether CP or HP, EOs are notrious for fading in about 6 months after making the soap. I don't mean to discourage you from using EOs but you do need to do a bit of research to help "fix" the scent. There are so many variables come into play:
The nature of the EO itself: Top notes tend to fade faster than bottom notes. Blends that include an "anchor" like Oakmoss Absolute (10%) will last longest.
The Oils/Fats/Butters used: From my experience, high % of lard and shea butter retain scent longer.
The addition of 1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon PPO of dry materials like activated charcoal, clay, powder, flour, starch, etc. help to "stick" scent.
The jury isn't in yet, but as little as 10% soy wax may help.

Thanks for the info! I've got a local rancher that is opening his own market, so that would be a really good source of lard, cows are all grass-fed.
Anything with EO's I'll probably just make small batches of that, so that it doesn't sit and lose anything.

 

[AliOop]

Hi @Redglade. - how cool to have a local source of high quality fat! One clarification: the fat from cows is tallow. Lard is rendered pig fat. I wouldn't mention that except the two different fats bring some very different qualities to your soap batter and your cured soap. And when people on this forum rave about lard, they are definitely referring to pig fat, not cow fat.

My experience has been that the same amount of EO seems stronger in HP than in CP. Whether that is due to the active lye in CP destroying some of the EO scent, I can't say. But more important than whether you do CP or HP is to take extra steps, such as Zany suggested above, to maximize your scent retention. Making smaller batches is one way to do that, since you will use up each batch faster, with less time for the EO to fade.

Have some fun making soap, and be sure to share with us how it turns out.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Hi @Redglade.My experience has been that the same amount of EO seems stronger in HP than in CP.

I was researching some info at the EO Calc site yesterday and found this bit in the FAQs:

Cold Process Soap (Category 9) Usage Rates: 1% to 5%
Hot Process Soap (Category 9) Usage Rates: 1% to 3%

And, while we're on the subject, when writing the ingredients for your lard soap, SoapCalc provides the INCI for lard ("Adeps Suillus"):

Kinda fancy nomenclature for pig fat, isn't it?

 

[Redglade]

Hi @Redglade. - how cool to have a local source of high quality fat! One clarification: the fat from cows is tallow. Lard is rendered pig fat. I wouldn't mention that except the two different fats bring some very different qualities to your soap batter and your cured soap. And when people on this forum rave about lard, they are definitely referring to pig fat, not cow fat.

Ooooh... you know what, I knew that. It was one of those little factoids that rattle around in the back of your head and never pop up until someone else says it. Thanks for reminding me, I would have been a little embarrassed in the end if I asked the cow rancher for his lard.

 

[Redglade]

Kinda fancy nomenclature for pig fat, isn't it?

Very fancy! Thanks for the info, definitely checking that out.