Deep Cleansing Oil

[amd]

Just wondering what the advantage of using a polysorbate when you can buy water soluble olive oil, which would serve the same purpose for rinsability? (I know that's not a word, but you know what I mean!)

You could use Olivem300 ala this recipe http://www.humblebeeandme.com/gentle-calendula-cleansing-oil/
This is the recipe that I follow, subbing in PS80 for the olivem300. Most of us easily have PS80 from liquid soap making, bubble bars, bath bombs, and the like, and possibly more easily found from suppliers. <-- that last part I'm really not to sure of, I've never gone looking for Olivem300 because I have PS80.

 

[amd]

Just wanted to report that I made a batch for my daughter, this time with her request to use the Jelly Donut FO from WSP. There was a bit leftover so I put it into a .5 ounce bottle that I had and gave it to a work colleague last week. She took it with her this week while work traveling, and took the time to message me that 'Dude! This stuff is amazeballs! I want more when I get home. The doughnut smell was awesome too. Would it be weird to ask for Doritos scented cleanser?' bahaha, my colleague is a weird soul, but I love her.

 

[IrishLass]

Just wondering what the advantage of using a polysorbate when you can buy water soluble olive oil, which would serve the same purpose for rinsability? (I know that's not a word, but you know what I mean!)

For me, the advantage is that PS80 is one of those staple ingredients that I always have on hand in my cupboard for use in my soap and perfumery creations.

Having said that, though, I will be doing some experiments with some water-soluble oils tomorrow if my LotionCrafter order gets here on time. I decided to order some Olivem-300 and some Cromollient SCE from them after running into several discussions and recipes online as I was doing some further reading/research about emulsified oil cleansers, including a thread from last summer here on SMF (which immediately prompted me to also add some olive squalane to my LotionCrafter cart).

I really need to cut down on all the binge reading/researching about this cleanser. It's getting rather expensive. lol


IrishLass

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Just wondering what the advantage of using a polysorbate when you can buy water soluble olive oil, which would serve the same purpose for rinsability? (I know that's not a word, but you know what I mean!)

I really don't know because I've never used "water soluble olive oil"... where do you get it? Is it expensive?

I will be doing some experiments with some water-soluble oils tomorrow if my LotionCrafter order gets here on time. I decided to order some Olivem-300 and some Cromollient SCE from them after running into several discussions and recipes online as I was doing some further reading/research about emulsified oil cleansers, including a thread from last summer here on SMF (which immediately prompted me to also add some olive squalane to my LotionCrafter cart).

Thanks for that SMF link, Irish! If I only I had the ability to Edit my first post, it would be good to add it there!

FYI: Jen's formula (Lotion Crafter) appeared on the Southern Soapers Group years ago about the same time as I formulated mine. Both were based on DHC's Cleansing Oil, but they are different.

I believe in giving credit where credit is due. So, if it isn't too much trouble, please start a new thread (emulsified oil cleansers?) for your experiments with Jen's formula. And definitely, link to Jen's formula on her site. I'm sure she would appreciate that.

Also, I would link back to this one and to the other SMF one in order to keep them all together. Please & TIA!

UPDATE: Link to Previous Discussion on SMF (Thanks, Irish):

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/olive-cleansing-oil-face-wash.63933/

Navigator9’s first post quoted below pretty much describes how I got started on formulating a dupe for DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil.

... Years ago, I started getting catalogs from DHC, a Japanese skin care site. They always include samples with their catalog, and one of these was their Deep Cleansing Oil. ...

When I first made this gentle facial cleanser years ago, DHC’s list of ingredients was way shorter than it is today. It’s a good thing I discovered it then because the ingredients have changed over the years, and, JMHO, NOT for the better.

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, 6.7 fl. oz. @ $28 !!!
Ingredients: Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil.

Navigator9 used Jen’s recipe at Lotion Crafter to create her Olive Cleansing Oil Face Wash. FYI: There are good B&B recipes on that site! It’s a great company to do business with -- highly recommended without reservation! Here’s a link to Lotion Crafter's formulary:

https://www.lotioncrafter.com/lotioncrafter-premium-ingredients-formulary.html

 

[beckster51]

I really don't know because I've never used "water soluble olive oil"... where do you get it? Is it expensive?

As with so many products, it varies in price from site to site. It is certainly cheaper than using DHC oil! By the way, I find DHC to be a little too "stripping" for my aged face, so I prefer an oil blend that is a bit more moisturizing. I don't usually have polysorbate 80 on hand, and I prefer not having to mix multiple ingredients to make facial cleaning oil. (Maybe I am lazy? LOL) I have used it straight up, but it is more moisturizing if you had a touch of another oil, like squalane or regular olive oil. I purchased mine from the Herbarie. I haven't bought it in a while. There are different brand names, like Olivem, but if you just google Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters you should be able to locate some. Thanks for the recipe, Zany, I may try it when I run out! I appreciate you generosity very much.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Thanks for the info, Beckster. Good to know. I actually did a scoot around the internet and there are a lot of products out there that contain WS Olive Oil. I think squalane is an excellent option, but too pricey for my pocktbook! Esp. for a wash off product.

Irish Lass also found my cleansing oil a bit drying so I'm hoping she'll put on her Mad Scientist hat and start a thread on "Emulsified Oil Cleansers" to experiment with Jen's recipe at Lotion Crafter, which is based on the DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, which is also where I started. Frugal ol' me, I always have olive oil and PS 80 on hand so I'll stick with that. It works for me, but I hope others feel free to tweak the recipe to what works for them.

 

[Clarice]

I (Dr thinks I have mild rosacea).

My sister has terrible rosacea and she swears by a mega-buck formula from Origins --Dr. Weils Mushroom

https://www.origins.com/dr-weil-mega-mushroom

I wonder if there is a way to incorporate a mushroom element into this oil cleanser

(and i recognize i am in Pre-K from a knownledge and development perspective with all this - so my thought may be complete hoo-hah!)

 

[Clarice]

Dagnabit, I screwed up yesterday when I made my calculations. The 10% PS80 batch I made yesterday is actually a 5% PS80 batch (don't know where my head was at), but at least I now know how well this stuff can clean with only 5% PS80! I'm impressed!

Instead of making a 12% batch today, I made a 10% batch, which I'm about to try out here in a few minutes.

@earlene- I use the oil cleanser on my eyes also to remove my eye make-up, and like with Obsidian, it doesn't burn me or require any flushing.


IrishLass

Hi. Love this thread. Can I confirm in your version @IrishLass you used 5% PS80 meaning that your oils were 95% and PS80 the remaining 5%?

Thank you. Should be obvious but I want to be suspenders and belt in my approach lol

 

[IrishLass]

Hi. Love this thread. Can I confirm in your version @IrishLass you used 5% PS80 meaning that your oils were 95% and PS80 the remaining 5%?

Thank you. Should be obvious but I want to be suspenders and belt in my approach lol

Yes-you are correct!


IrishLass

 

[Clarice]

OK - since one of the first things I did when I started to soap was to order a veritable sh#tload of "exotic" oils after reading 200 Tips, Techniques and Recipes for Natural Beauty (don't bother, not worth the $$$)

I decided today was the day to make a version of Zany's DCO and an evening "leave on" oil

Here's what I made:

Seven Oil Cleanser (Hey, you gotta do SOMETHING with these things!)
20% Sweet Almond Oil
10% Apricot Kernel Oil
10% Castor Oil
30% Fractionated CO
10% Evening Primrose Oil
10% Meadowfoam
10% PS80
15 drops each Geranium & Bulgarian Lavender EOs
10 drops each Santo Paolo & Frankincense EOs
10 drops T-50 Tocopherols

Will try tonight. How will it be? Who knows - if it is a flop, it will make a great massage oil!

If I could go back in time about three months I would tell myself to back away from the shopping cart and go for a walk.

HAH!

Thanks much Zany and all for your super posts and information!

 

[beckster51]

Yes-you are correct!


IrishLass

Irish Lass, Should I assume you are doing this formula by weight or volume? I am about to attempt making one with mineral oil to see how I like it since it is supposedly noncomediogenic.

 

[IrishLass]

Hi Beckster! Normally, I'm all about weighing everything on a scale, but since all the recipes for these oil cleansers are based on volume, I always start out measuring them by volume, and then once I have a recipe that I like enough to be a 'keeper", I weigh each volume measurement out on a scale for future reference.


IrishLass

 

[beckster51]

Hi Beckster! Normally, I'm all about weighing everything on a scale, but since all the recipes for these oil cleansers are based on volume, I always start out measuring them by volume, and then once I have a recipe that I like enough to be a 'keeper", I weigh each volume measurement out on a scale for future reference.


IrishLass

Thanks! This is a great approach, and one I would not have thought of without you.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I decided today was the day to make a version of Zany's DCO and an evening "leave on" oil

Since my cleansing oil is based on 50/50 Poly 80 + Oil(s), and you're using less Poly 80, you may find Irish's thread more helpful. Like you, Irish started with this one, but modified it to suit her skin. It's a good one too!:
Experimenting With Emulsified Oil Cleansers

Thanks much Zany and all for your super posts and information!

You're most welcome, Clarice.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I am about to attempt making one with mineral oil to see how I like it since it is supposedly noncomediogenic.

Hiya beckster!
Just an FIY: Mineral Oil is petroleum based and some formulators won't use it for that reason. However, it is widely available in over 50% of OTC creams and lotions, but I've never seen one with all natural co-ingredients like I prefer. I've had a little experience using it to make homemade lotion. It just doesn't seem to play nice with the other ingredients we use to make lotions and creams and such. But that's just my experience. YMMV.

My first suggestion is to try it without adding anything else to it. It may work as a facial cleanser quite well. Not sure.

My second suggestion is, take a look at other oils that might give you what you're looking for plus be more compatible with the rest of the ingredients in your formula. Here's a link:

Best Non-comedogenic Oils For The Face

My third suggestion is, check out the link to Irish's thread in Post #54 before you start experimenting. I think you'll find it very helpful.

 

[beckster51]

Hiya beckster!
Just an FIY: Mineral Oil is petroleum based and some formulators won't use it for that reason. However, it is widely available in over 50% of OTC creams and lotions, but I've never seen one with all natural co-ingredients like I prefer. I've had a little experience using it to make homemade lotion. It just doesn't seem to play nice with the other ingredients we use to make lotions and creams and such. But that's just my experience. YMMV.

My first suggestion is to try it without adding anything else to it. It may work as a facial cleanser quite well. Not sure.

My second suggestion is, take a look at other oils that might give you what you're looking for plus be more compatible with the rest of the ingredients in your formula. Here's a link:

Best Non-comedogenic Oils For The Face

My third suggestion is, check out the link to Irish's thread in Post #54 before you start experimenting. I think you'll find it very helpful.

Thanks for the information, Zany, you are always so helpful. My plan is just to start with MO and Polysorbate 80. I generally like to keep beginning formulas simple, otherwise I don't know how to evaluate what I like or don't like. I have very sensitive skin prone to breakouts, even though it is very dry. I like oil cleansing, but some oils really break me out, so I am starting with those I know are noncomediogenic. I don't have a problem with petroleum. Petroleum is a great ingredient to prevent moisture loss, and I don't think it is a problem unless it is adulterated. I have bought what I believe is a pure form, so I am going to give it a whirl. I use Aquaphor occasionally, and I have found it quite effective. I will check the link about other oils. I like meadowfoam, but it seems expensive to use for a wash off formula.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Thanks for the information, Zany, you are always so helpful.

You're welcome, Beckster.

My plan is just to start with MO and Polysorbate 80. ... I don't have a problem with petroleum. ... I use Aquaphor occasionally, and I have found it quite effective..

To keep it uber simple, I suggest you try the Poly 80 alone. You will be surprised how it cleanses but doesn't leave your face feeling tight and dry. The key is to NOT use any water until you've finished massaging your face with it. Once you apply water to rinse, it moves like concrete! LOL Keep rinsing. It creates a bit of lather that rinses clean!

I don't have a problem with MO/petroleum product either, except that it doesn't seem to work well with the usual lotion-making ingredients. When I first moved to Colorado, umpteen years ago, Vaseline Intensive Care Lotion (contains MO) saved my parched skin. That, plus taking Vitamin E. I've tried and failed to dupe that lotion.

Please start a new thread with the subject heading something like "Mineral Oil Facial Cleanser" to share you experiments with the group... rather than burying it forever in this thread. I'm really looking forward to reading about your results!

 

[Bladesmith]

So I was reading around about PS 80 as I have a lot of oil stained clothes and wanted to try it out and somehow got linked here.

My mother has been frustrated because her facial cleansing lotion had been discontinued and she has been paying exorbitant prices to pick up a few remaining bottles. She has very sensitive skin and many facial cleansers burn her face. She said she's had more luck with cleansers that are "wipe-off" as opposed to "rinse-off". A lot of the rinse-off ones she said gave her red scaley patches on her face even though she immediately follows it up with a moisturizer.

I know nothing about any of this stuff. Do you think something like this would work? I'm assuming this cleanser does need to be rinsed off?

Heres the ingredients from what she uses. It's an Estee lauder product. She's tried another one they make now and it burns her face.

Any ideas?

 

[Zany_in_CO]

She has very sensitive skin and many facial cleansers burn her face.

The two standouts on the ingredient list are CCT (Caprylic Capric Triglyceride) aka FCO (fractionated coconut oil) and olive oil which is all you need, along with the Poly 80 (similar to Glucose Stearate as it is sugar-based) which makes the oils "water soluble" and easy to rinse clean. I also have sensitive skin and this stuff feels wonderful on my face.

I'd encourage you to make up a 120 ml batch and have her try it. I think she'll like it better than the Estee Lauder product that has a few chemicals in it I would simply reject if I were considering purchasing it.

ETA: Lotion Crafter carries CCT/FCO -- you can read about it here:
https://lotioncrafter.com/products/lotioncrafter-cct-formerly-fco

 

[Bladesmith]

The two standouts on the ingredient list are CCT (Caprylic Capric Triglyceride) aka FCO (fractionated coconut oil) and olive oil which is all you need, along with the Poly 80 (similar to Glucose Stearate as it is sugar-based) which makes the oils "water soluble" and easy to rinse clean. I also have sensitive skin and this stuff feels wonderful on my face.

I'd encourage you to make up a 120 ml batch and have her try it. I think she'll like it better than the Estee Lauder product that has a few chemicals in it I would simply reject if I were considering purchasing it.

ETA: Lotion Crafter carries CCT/FCO -- you can read about it here:
https://lotioncrafter.com/products/lotioncrafter-cct-formerly-fco

Thanks Zany! I do already have some FCO from making deoderant a month or so ago so it should be an easy make. It can be pretty hard to get her to try anything new but I think I will make up a batch. If it works for her, I think she'll be happier that she doesn't have to go hunting for discontinued bottles anymore. Took me a long while to convince her to try my unscented, uncolored plain soap as most soaps she's purchased in the past has caused her to break out. Happy to say she's now using my soap. Hopefully the facial cleanser will be a similar experience!