de-funk de pits

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Okay, so you have different stuff than what I found from the same manufacturer. I did find some 100% pure MgOH but again, the postage is at least double that of the actual product.

From what I found 40 dollar postage for a package that costs 50 dollars, is actually pretty good. But I'm not prepared to put quite that much money into deodorant, even if that would be life time supply or something. =P

The really annoying thing in all this is that MgOH happens to be one of the few variations of hydroxides or variations of Mg salts that our environmental lab doesn't have. Almost everything else I could borrow from work but of course not that one...
 
Does anyone else find that their essential oil scent completely fades away using this recipe?
 
I don't add other waxes to my deodorant -- just babassu and mag hydroxide -- and have less residue on my clothing compared to when I was using commercial deos.

You're using cera bellina in addition to the babassu and mag hydroxide. Cera bellina, as a beeswax alternative, has a fairly high melt point. My guess is the cera bellina is the problem. I'd probably try washing in ultra hot water with plenty of detergent and see if that removes the residue.

I think your goal of getting a high melt point deo is probably the reason why you're also seeing this unintended consequence.
 
I don't add other waxes to my deodorant -- just babassu and mag hydroxide -- and have less residue on my clothing compared to when I was using commercial deos.

You're using cera bellina in addition to the babassu and mag hydroxide. Cera bellina, as a beeswax alternative, has a fairly high melt point. My guess is the cera bellina is the problem. I'd probably try washing in ultra hot water with plenty of detergent and see if that removes the residue.

I think your goal of getting a high melt point deo is probably the reason why you're also seeing this unintended consequence.

Actually this is before the cera. I was only using babassu and magnesium. I have just started using the wax because a) the double combo would be very difficult to apply and b) the double combo melted when my daughter drive from Winnipeg to Saskatoon an 8 hr drive in hot car.

I cannot was my tops in hot water as i do not want to ruin them with fading etc. I cannot understand why i seem to have this problem and others do not 😳. Not fair!
 
I'm using commercial variants of this and had the problem with one particular night shirt that is really tight. I apply deo in the morning when I'm still in my pyjamas. They are normally loose so the deo has time to absorb before I put on more fitted day clothes. And I think that is why I had build up in that particular shirt. I got rid off it by using bile soap on the stains before washing normally at 30 degrees C.
 
Like DeeAnna, I have much less residue (actually, none at all) on my clothing with the babassu/mag hydroxide deodorant. In case it matters, my method of application is rubbing the deo into my underarms like a lotion/cream.


IrishLass :)
 
I'm using commercial variants of this and had the problem with one particular night shirt that is really tight. I apply deo in the morning when I'm still in my pyjamas. They are normally loose so the deo has time to absorb before I put on more fitted day clothes. And I think that is why I had build up in that particular shirt. I got rid off it by using bile soap on the stains before washing normally at 30 degrees C.

Ummm what is bile soap?
 
Like DeeAnna, I have much less residue (actually, none at all) on my clothing with the babassu/mag hydroxide deodorant. In case it matters, my method of application is rubbing the deo into my underarms like a lotion/cream.


IrishLass :)

Hi IL yes i was following your process this whole time. I started using roll up containers because i found the deo was drying my fingers. Also, your deo stays creamy but mine was never a lotion i could apply very well. I dont think we are as hot here as your area.

Perhaps i should try applying the lotion and waiting before i dress.
 
We have it in most supermarkets in here, so you could check yours next time. I have no idea how common the stuff is else where but here it's readily available. Or seeing if you can get it with more reasonable price elsewhere. Here it costs around 10 e, I think. It's not cheap for a soap but not super expensive either.
 
What do you want the 100% coconut oil soap for -- a stain stick or a bath bar? If stain stick, then I'd use a 0% superfat so the soap performs as strongly as possible as a grease cutter. If a bath bar, I'd use more like 20% superfat. If you only superfat a 100% CO soap at 5%, it will be really harsh on the skin.

If you state the lye concentration (30%), that's all you need to say -- everyone can totally understand what you mean and re-create the recipe.

No point to also talking about 38% water and 0% water discount. My opinion -- stick to lye concentration and only lye concentration. Fugeddabout adding the 38% water and 0% water discount -- this added info is not necessary and often rather confusing.
 

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