CP vs CPOP Castile Slime Difference

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steffamarie

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So on Tuesday, I decided to whip up a quick batch of 100% olive oil soap to put away for later. I chose a ghost swirl and CPOP'ed it to ensure my gel phase would be even. It ended up getting a little hot and rose up in the center but didn't volcano. It was very clearly in gel.

My question is...do any of you who HP or CPOP castile soap notice a difference in the slime level?? I just tested a scrap today (I know...I know...) and the lather was actually quite nice and not slimy in the least. I used refined A olive oil from Soaper's Choice with a 3% SF and just water and lye. Is it possible that the gelling helped the soap lose water faster? I used a 40% lye concentration with extra water added to about a third of the soap for my ghost swirl. Would water loss help the slime factor? I'm pleasantly surprised but a little confused!!
 
I have not see a difference in CP, HP, or CPOP Castile soap, but I am not one who is bothered by the castile slime as some others are. I rarely take notice and if I want to find it, have to really set my mind to making it happen. Others who notice it more than I, may have noticed a difference, but I don't see how the process would affect the end product of a high oleic soap.
 
Sorry if I'm threadjacking but what is CPOP?

Edit: Cold Process Oven Process...Google is my friend.
 
I have not see a difference in CP, HP, or CPOP Castile soap, but I am not one who is bothered by the castile slime as some others are. I rarely take notice and if I want to find it, have to really set my mind to making it happen. Others who notice it more than I, may have noticed a difference, but I don't see how the process would affect the end product of a high oleic soap.
I didn't think it would, and I have a batch of olive/rice bran 'castile' that I made as my first-ever soap last June. It lathers decently now, but it gave me nothing but slime for months. Yet with these scraps that are just a few days old, I'm already getting a scant but non-slimy lather. Very weird! Maybe I'll make a comparison batch without CPOPing it and try to prevent gel by sticking it in the fridge. Loved how fast I could unmold the CPOP though!! Cut it in 12 hours.
 
My fully-gelled 100% OO Castile's always produced copious slime.....even when cured as long as 5 years. I no longer make Castile's, but for what it's worth, I always made them with Costco's Kirkland-brand Pure Olive Oil, superfatted @ 5%, and used a 40% lye solution.

Here's a pic of the slime coming off of one of my fully-gelled Castile bars- it was 5-year's old when this pic was taken:

CastileSlime640IMG_3011.JPG



IrishLass :)
 
Maybe I'll make a comparison batch without CPOPing it and try to prevent gel by sticking it in the fridge.
I'd be interested in hearing about these results! For proper scientific comparison you could make another batch and CPOP only half of it, to compare against the other CP half (so all other variables are the same). Either way, looking forward to hearing your thoughts :)
 
My question is...do any of you who HP or CPOP castile soap notice a difference in the slime level?? I just tested a scrap today (I know...I know...) and the lather was actually quite nice and not slimy in the least. I used refined A olive oil from Soaper's Choice with a 3% SF and just water and lye. Is it possible that the gelling helped the soap lose water faster? I used a 40% lye concentration with extra water added to about a third of the soap for my ghost swirl. Would water loss help the slime factor? I'm pleasantly surprised but a little confused!!
I recently did both CP and HP Castile but not a true one since I used pomace, and 20% of the liquid was saturated brine.

You can see the lather of the HP one here, and within that there's a link to a post on the CP lather. There is almost no lather to speak of in the CP one, but it's only been days, but there is no slime at all in both. I also did a ghost swirl in the CP one btw..

I haven't tried CPOP as I have no oven but I'm excited to see how your ghost swirl turned out :)
 
Dawni, by definition the olive oil that goes into Castile soap only has to be olive oil. In other words, no matter what the grade, it is still going to be Castile soap. Of course you are correct that the brine is not the norm for Castile, but that doesn't mean it's not still a Castile soap. I've made a few Castiles that weren't just olive oil & lye and water. Some had fragrance added. Some had colorants added. Some had vinegar added. I may have even done with aloe juice in place of water (or thought about, not sure at the moment.) They are all still Castile as far as I'm concerned.
 
I just wanted to point out the difference in oils and liquid used, to compare the slime, or lack thereof.

There's a lot of definitions of Castile, yes? I did some research and an old definition of "traditional" Castile called for EVOO and seawater. I had neither lol but I made this anyway. And I'm still calling it Castile :p
 
So on Tuesday, I decided to whip up a quick batch of 100% olive oil soap to put away for later. I chose a ghost swirl and CPOP'ed it to ensure my gel phase would be even. It ended up getting a little hot and rose up in the center but didn't volcano. It was very clearly in gel.

My question is...do any of you who HP or CPOP castile soap notice a difference in the slime level?? I just tested a scrap today (I know...I know...) and the lather was actually quite nice and not slimy in the least. I used refined A olive oil from Soaper's Choice with a 3% SF and just water and lye. Is it possible that the gelling helped the soap lose water faster? I used a 40% lye concentration with extra water added to about a third of the soap for my ghost swirl. Would water loss help the slime factor? I'm pleasantly surprised but a little confused!!
I think it’s the olive oil that you use the is also important in avoiding slime. Oz olive oils don’t seem to get it. I use EVOO. I ensure gel too so maybe you are right about that.
If you CPOP preheat the oven to 110*F and turn it off before putting your wrapped soap in the oven. You are not trying to cook the soap just maintaining the temp the soap will naturally reach with saponification. Low SF and salt make a great Castile.
 
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