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cherylr

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I have a recipe from a book how do I know for sure which to go with since
they are all different. Help!
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Recipe from a book

12 oz. Coconut oil
12 oz. Sunflower oil
8 oz. Palm oil
5 oz. lye
14 oz. distilled water
3 tbs. dried calendula petals
2 tsp. clary sage oil
2 tsp. Marjoram oil
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Bram berry Calc
Same recipe as above
Told me to use 4.504 Lye
Liquid 10.56
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Another Calculator used
Same recipe as above

Lye 4.58
8 to 12 oz. Liquid
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I ran the recipe through SoapCalc with an 8% superfat and got 4.55 oz of lye and 12.16 oz of water. I use SoapCalc all of the time with no problems.
 
Did you use the same SF and water/lye percentage? Since the sap value of oils is usually given in a range, a little bit one way or the other is okay.

I use soapcalc.net as my calculator.
 
What book did the recipe come from? The recipe 'as is' comes out with a zero superfat on SoapCalc. That's not good. For safety sake you'll want to use at least a 5% superfat, which will bring your lye amount to 4.7 oz instead of 5 oz.

The 'as is' water amount is also very high (even higher than what is considered a 'full water' amount). The most I would use is 12.16 oz instead of the 14 oz. mentioned. If you use 14 oz, your soap is liable to warp when curing.


IrishLass :)
 
This recipe

I got this out of the book Handmade Soap Book by Melinda Coss. Thanks for the replies back I am really new at making soap. I just don't want to waste money!
 
Hello!

I have the exact same book at home and did try out the recipe you've posted when I first started. Luckily it turned out OK for me but I fully support the concerns raised by others on this thread about the 0% superfat and I won't be using that recipe again. I just wish I had known it at the time! I have also heard other concerns. I don't have the book in front of me right now but here's some comments from one of the reviews on amazon UK:

"Firstly, within the first few pages, there is a section where she has a highlighted section of the 10 main points to remember, one of which is to always ADD THE WATER TO THE CAUSTIC SODA, rather than the reverse!!! Luckily, she does explain elsewhere that in fact the reverse is true, but still, a beginner (as I was) could just go to that section to refresh their memory as to which way the two should be combined with disasterous results.

Secondly, she translates the measurements of essential oils from teaspoons/tablespoons into grams (that might be mls - I've given the book back to the library) completely wrongly. (It's o.k. if you follow the teaspoons/ tablespoons measures).

Thirdly, the amount of Sodium Hydroxide in some of the recipes is wrong - e.g. in one recipe (I haven't checked them all), it is 25% TOO MUCH!

Fourthly, she uses 'vegetable oil' and 'vegetable shortening' in many of the recipes; if you don't know what type of oil or shortening you are using you cannot accurately calculate the amount of Sodium Hydroxide to use. On realising this, and with a fridge half full of Cookeen, I contacted them only to be informed that their product does not include either Soya or Palm oil, and that they would not in any case disclose the recipe.

Fourthly, you will never be able to legally sell that soap in the U.k., because you will not be able to accurately declare the ingredients.

Fifthly, she does not warn of the dangers to your project of using the wrong water - she suggests that bottled water is o.k. All bottled waters are not equal, and some have a lot of minerals in them which will destroy your batch. I find distilled water gives reliable predictable results; not so bottled water.

Fifthly, many of the recipes are just not good recipes (even where the amount of Sodium Hydroxide is correct); a major factor being that they will be so hard that they will fracture on cutting, and be almost impossible to actually cut a decent bar from; and many will also be very drying.

Sixthly, there is no reference to EU regulations, and the book gives the impression that it is o.k. to just sell soap you have made, without spending longer on paperwork than making soap :(

Seventhly, she doesn't really discuss the gel phase (where the soap is left to 'cook' in the mould); in my experience small batches have much more difficulty getting hot, and the edges and corners will not make good soap. I appreciate that small batches of a pound or two, which is where the book is focused, are just what the beginner wants and needs, but more explanation of this, and some extra measures (e.g. heating the moulds, ensuring that they are wrapped/insulated really quickly and even put in a luke warm oven) would have been helpful."

It's a nice book for ideas etc. and looks lovely but I would be wary of using the recipes. Her second book, Natural Soap, is much better.
 
Thank you erniemay for posting your detailed review. :D I do not have the book in question, but I am sure glad that I don't, now that I've read your review! :shock: Thank you for highlighting for us all (especially those new to the craft) such a prime example of some of the dangerous/faulty soapmaking info that lurks out there, and for underlining why it's so important to run every recipe through a soap calculator, and to also check things out on the forums. There's safety and much up-to-date info to be found in the wisdom of the many talented and seasoned soapmakers on the forums, as opposed to a book that is limited to a single author whose knowledge may be faulty, sketchy, or outdated.



IrishLass :)
 
On realising this, and with a fridge half full of Cookeen, I contacted them only to be informed that their product does not include either Soya or Palm oil, and that they would not in any case disclose the recipe.

Maybe you could have asked for just the saponification number of the product ...
 
IrishLass said:
Thank you erniemay for posting your detailed review. :D I do not have the book in question, but I am sure glad that I don't, now that I've read your review! :shock: Thank you for highlighting for us all (especially those new to the craft) such a prime example of some of the dangerous/faulty soapmaking info that lurks out there, and for underlining why it's so important to run every recipe through a soap calculator, and to also check things out on the forums. There's safety and much up-to-date info to be found in the wisdom of the many talented and seasoned soapmakers on the forums, as opposed to a book that is limited to a single author whose knowledge may be faulty, sketchy, or outdated.



IrishLass :)

I think it was a review read on Amazon...
 
Yes, it was one on amazon UK - not mine alas! Although having read the book I do agree with the points raised which is why I posted it.

I have never tried using shortening actually - there are so many other amazing oils to try first.

If it is helpful, after realising the shortfalls of the recipe in the book, I adjusted it to have a 7% superfat and to fit my mould (745g of oils) in case I wanted to use it again. I got:

coconut oil: 250g
sunflower oil: 310g
palm oil: 185g
lye: 105g
Clary sage: 15g
Marjoram: 15g
Water: 210g

I've never gotten round to using this adjusted recipe so I'm not sure how it would turn out compared to the original.

As I mentioned earlier, her second book is much better (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Natural-Soap-Me ... 225&sr=8-4) with all the recipes super fatted. Although the SF is a bit low for me personally as they are usually only 3%-5%.

Both books are nice for inspiration and information about oils, additives and essential oils and they are very pretty.
 
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