Candelilla Wax in a lotion bar & Percentages

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lillybella

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Hi Everyone :razz:

Let's see if I can explain this so I understand it :lol:

Recipe for lotion bar (from swiftcraftymonkey) at
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca/2013/05/newbie-tuesday-formulating-lotion-bars.html

MANGO BUTTER LOTION BAR
28% beeswax
30% mango butter
31% oils (16% sunflower oil, 15% rice bran oil)
5% IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance or essential oil
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone

I want to make this VEGAN by using Candelilla Wax instead of the Beeswax;
So if I would use half the amount (14%) of Candelilla Wax.

What do I do with the rest of the percentages to make 100%?

When percentages are used the percentages equal the same as grams right?
Would 100 Grams equal 100%?

Thank you all! This is so embarrassing! I feel like I should know this :oops:
 
NEW LOTION BAR PROBLEM :sad:

I made a mango Lotion Bar which I have in a deodorant container. This is like silk! I can't live without it!
I used the same formula, same batch & just keep it in my shower. It is just a block. I do not keep it in anything. It was smooth & silky. All of a sudden (about a week) it is now grainy. The one in the container is still smooth & silky. I tempered all the ingredients.

This graininess is driving me :crazy:

These are the ingredients I used:

MANGO BUTTER LOTION BAR
Candillia Wax
mango butter
oils
IPM

HELP!

Lily :razz:
 
I'm thinking because of the exposure to the humidity/moisture. Just a guess though. I've never kept one in my shower so can't speak first hand.
 
I'd bet it's from the temperature changes. I have heard that tempering does nothing to avoid graininess but others say it works. I don't use mango, cocoa or shea butters anymore because of graininess.
 
I use different butters in different lotion bars and once tempered never have a problem with grainyness. If they go in the sun they do melt but I haven't noticed them being grainy when re-solidifying....I tested to see what happens. I don't usually sell them when it's really hot out as I prefer mine a bit softer to start
 
I only tested the tempered butters in lip balm. I made four recipes this summer and kept them in my night stand. Once the cool fall weather came, the three balms with mango, cocoa and/or shea went grainy. (The butters were tempered and the lip balms were placed in the fridge after I made them to further prevent graininess.) The other balm had kokum butter, which I've heard can cause graininess too. The kokum butter was not tempered and I had no graininess problem with it.

I had a purchased lip balm get grainy once the weather cooled. Alba's Coconut Cream lip balm. There is no shea, mango or cocoa butter in it, I have no idea what caused it but both tubes of coconut cream went grainy.
Ingredients
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (1), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (1), Beeswax (1), Flavor, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil (1), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil (1), Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Allantoin, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citral, Limonene, Linalool. (1) Certified Organic Ingredient
 
Believe it or not, candelilla wax can actually go grainy, and the Alba balm lists candelilla pretty high up on the ingredient list you posted. Many people use double-refined candelilla wax for that reason. TKB Trading sells it.

I use candelilla wax (and carnauba wax) in one of my balm formulas and I have pretty good success at keeping the graininess away. Two things that I am in the habit of doing are these:

1) I use ButterEZ in all my balms (from Lotioncrafter's), which helps keep the grainies away.

and

2) I temper the candelilla (and carnauba) by keeping them on the heat for 10 minutes past the time it looks like they're fully melted before I mix them with my other ingredients. When I add my other ingredients, the candelilla/carnauba will start re-solidifying a bit again, but I keep things on the heat and continue heating through until all my ingredients are completely melted and all is clear with no visible grains to be seen anywhere when I tip my melting vessel to have a look-see.

Oh, and once I pour into my tubes, I put them into the freezer immediately (not the fridge) until set, and then I put them in the fridge for 30 minutes before taking them to room temp (or else just leaving them in the fridge until needed).


IrishLass :)
 
In my lotion I used vegetable emulsifying wax, every 100 ml of water I use 8 grams of wax that's makes a thick cream but if you want more lighter just use 6 grams.
 
I tempered everything together for an hour.

I did not put in the fridge.

Isn't the IPM suppose to help with graininess?
 
I tempered everything together for an hour.

I did not put in the fridge.

Isn't the IPM suppose to help with graininess?

Not to my knowledge. I thought it only helped to eliminate the greasy feeling in one's lotions and body butters.



IrishLass :)
 
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