best way to make Castile?

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jnl

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For the pros out there, what are the best ways to make Castile soap?

Should I HP it?

How much of a water discount should I do? 30% of oils (if not HP)?

Should I add salt or keep it pure?

I plan to mold it in silicone so I don't have to cut it (sometimes its way too soft and sometimes way too hard). Should I CPOP it (if not HP)? I have heard of people having problems with bubbles in silicone but I have not run into that yet...

What superfat should I use? 5%?

Should I use my Costco olive oil (not pomace) or my high end unfiltered EVOO?

I seem to get major soda ash on Castile. Should I spray the top with alcohol after pouring?

Is it better to pour at tick trace or thin?

I usually use room temp oils and warm lye water.....is there any benefit to soaping hotter for this?


Thanks!
 
Oh and I forgot my other question.....should I add ROE to keep the oils fresher over a really long cure time?
 
My year-old castile that I just adore was made with Cosco or Trader Joes OO (not EVOO). Lye conc was 34% (water as percent of oils was 25%), SF was 5%.

Adding ROE never hurts, I probably will on my next batch. And this is a funny thing, but my castille soaps scented with rosemary EO are pristine, but two of my plain bars got minor specs of DOS after a year.

I did some bars in silicone and some in loafs and both are nice. I don't see the point in doing HP or CPOP for this - whats the rush? Although I do put my molds on a heating pad if I want to ensure gel. If you're not doing any color you can pour at thick trace, but sometimes that takes forever and I get bored and pour at thin trace. I'm not sure if soaping warmer gets you much, other than a faster trace.

I cant help you with ash - I just wash it off if it bugs me. If yours are in silicone molds you can give the top a quick rinse before unmolding like that nice lady from Montreal does.
 
My Castile was made with 100% Costco Olive Oil, 6% SF and lye 33% Lye Concentration. I just let it do it's thing. Did in a silicone loaf mold. Only done it a couple times as I don't like castile and discontinuing offering it once it's all gone.
 
My year-old castile that I just adore was made with Cosco or Trader Joes OO (not EVOO). Lye conc was 34% (water as percent of oils was 25%), SF was 5%.

Adding ROE never hurts, I probably will on my next batch. And this is a funny thing, but my castille soaps scented with rosemary EO are pristine, but two of my plain bars got minor specs of DOS after a year.

I did some bars in silicone and some in loafs and both are nice. I don't see the point in doing HP or CPOP for this - whats the rush? Although I do put my molds on a heating pad if I want to ensure gel. If you're not doing any color you can pour at thick trace, but sometimes that takes forever and I get bored and pour at thin trace. I'm not sure if soaping warmer gets you much, other than a faster trace.

I cant help you with ash - I just wash it off if it bugs me. If yours are in silicone molds you can give the top a quick rinse before unmolding like that nice lady from Montreal does.

the point of CPOP would be to get an even gel instead of risking ugly partial gel. for other soaps i have made, i seem to prefer the soap when it has been gelled (especially if there are additives - additives like oatmeal and callendula get softer in gelled soap).



thanks!
 
would adding ROE be *******izing my castile? could i still say its 100% OO castile? technically it would not be, tho the % of ROE is so teeny that rounding would still put it at 100%, but i dont like to be misleading in any way. but i dont want DOS.

could ROE be an irritant to anyone?
 
would adding ROE be *******izing my castile? could i still say its 100% OO castile? technically it would not be, tho the % of ROE is so teeny that rounding would still put it at 100%, but i dont like to be misleading in any way. but i dont want DOS.

could ROE be an irritant to anyone?

I don't think so - otherwise you couldn't color or scent castille either. I've never heard of ROE being an irritant. I add ROE to all my hemp oil when I purchase it, and I know people do that to other oils as well to slow down oxidation.
 
OK

i will add ROE
and use 30% water (to oil) (less water, less shrinkage)
5% SF
CPOP for an even gel

and i might do half a batch in the unfiltered EVOO and half a batch in the OO.
ive done mini batches before (single bar of each) and the OO hardens up FAST and shrinks quite a bit and the unfiltered EVOO takes forever to harden and gets tons of soda ash (i had a super thick layer of it, like at least 1mm thick). i wish i could fast forward a year. LOL
will be interesting to compare such different olive oils. maybe they will be different, maybe there will be no discernible difference.


i have noticed in the past that CPOPing has increased my soda ash. but i have not pre-spritzed the top with alcohol before.
 

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