Best option for adding scent for a beginner

[Rpod]

Well, thinking it through, it sounds like adding fragrance to a batch of soap via essential oil at least doubles the cost of the batch. Even at a pretty cheap $5-10 per 1 fl.oz., that's way more than the cost of the oil and lye going into it.

Looking at the FOs on thesage.com, they are cheaper overall and less is needed according to the calculator. Is that a general consensus, that FOs are cheaper than EOs?

 

[kchaystack]

Well, thinking it through, it sounds like adding fragrance to a batch of soap via essential oil at least doubles the cost of the batch. Even at a pretty cheap $5-10 per 1 fl.oz., that's way more than the cost of the oil and lye going into it.

Looking at the FOs on thesage.com, they are cheaper overall and less is needed according to the calculator. Is that a general consensus, that FOs are cheaper than EOs?

Yes, for the most part. They are also the only way to get some scents in your soap. Vanilla, for example, is only going to come from and FO. Vanilla extract does not survive lye exposure, and it is usually an alcohol base, which will cause acceleration.

But you are right, the FO/EO in a soap formula is the main chunk of the cost in making it.

 

[BrewerGeorge]

Litsea Cubeba (aka May Chang) is also another option for a bright, lemony scent, and it sticks fairly well.

I personally think that Litsea smells a lot more "generic citrus" than lemongrass, and it's just as cheap. Lemongrass smells like... lemongrass, like herb and citrus together. Litsea sticks quite well, too.

That's interesting, I did not realize. Is the reason because to get a good scent you need too much of the EO and that makes it expensive, or you need too much that it ruins the recipe somehow?
...

As you've seen (from posts after I quoted this one) the scent can easily equal the cost of everything else in a recipe, but IMO that scent is what makes handmade soap so interesting. Colors and pretty swirls are fun and challenging, but when you stagger into the shower on a Monday morning you won't notice them. But that scent will penetrate that foggy mind and help start your day off right.

Economy of scale makes a BIG difference when buying scents, too. Buying a single ounce of NOW brand at a brick-and-mortar store is very expensive, but 2 oz from some place like Brambleberry is often actually cheaper (before shipping). By the 7-8 oz bottles, you might be paying a quarter as much per ounce.

One last thing about "unscented soap." If you don't use an EO or an FO, the subtle scents of things like cocoa butter and coconut milk do come through slightly in finished soap, IME. They are quite subtle and may not survive a very long cure, but they're detectable (to me) for several months, and if you're only making four bars at a time.

 

[HowieRoll]

I don't sell my soaps, but I've become enough of a hobbyist that I try to source oils/EOs in small bulk from soap suppliers. For instance, the grocery store castor oil I used for my first batch cost $0.75/oz, then I found some for $0.56/oz, and then I was able to source it for $0.16/oz.

The same thing happened with EOs, and now I generally purchase from New Directions Aromatics (they have a $100 minimum order requirement). I track each batch for cost of materials, and just went back and looked at the last 5-6 batches. It looks like the EOs account from anywhere between 32-44% of the total cost of materials (oils/lye/EO/etc). So yes, definitely, EO fragrance cost can be a large portion of a soap, but if you stick with this you will likely start to look at options for fragrance sourcing that is a lot less expensive than buying small amounts at retail.

ETA: looks like BrewerGeorge was sending out a similar message while I was typing!

 

[DeeAnna]

"...Is the reason because to get a good scent you need too much of the EO and that makes it expensive, or you need too much that it ruins the recipe somehow?..."

Any additive, including EOs and FOs, can change how the soap behaves while saponifying. That's all part of learning about soaping.

There are also safety concerns about certain types of FOs and EOs -- some are not safe at higher dosages, so you need to learn about this before leaping into using fragrance of any kind. For example, any fragrance that contains eugenol (found in clove EO) will accelerate trace a lot. Clove EO can also be a skin sensitizer, so this EO is not safe to use at high dosage rates.

But generally most scents, if used in reasonable amounts, don't greatly affect the saponification process nor the soap's safety when used on the skin.

Here are some differences between FOs and EOs --

Fragrance oils are often cheaper than essential oils -- not always, but often.
FOs come in a much wider range of scents than you will get from EOs.
Some EOs come from threatened or endangered plants (Indian sandalwood for example), so it can be an ethical choice to use FOs as a substitute for these EOs.
Also "natural" isn't always better -- some people have allergic reactions to EOs, but not to FOs.

 

[dixiedragon]

Generally speaking, EOs are more expensive than FOs. There are exceptions, mostly the ones named here. Mint, lemongrass and lavender are comparable to FO prices. If you want EOs, it's generally better to order from a place that focuses on them. For example, Camden Grey has much better EO prices than Brambleberry.

 

[IrishLass]

Looking at the FOs on thesage.com, they are cheaper overall and less is needed according to the calculator. Is that a general consensus, that FOs are cheaper than EOs?

Yes, most definitely. Even many of less expensive EOs are oftentimes more expensive compared to FOs, which is (one of the reasons) why I only use FOs in my soap.

The other reason is that I only use FOs in my soap is that I personally look at EOs as precious medicines that should be used only very judiciously according to their safe usage rates. Oftentimes, the amount of EO needed in order for the scent to come through and/or last in CP is well over the safe usage rate for that particular EO. Also- when I think of how much plant material is needed to make even small amounts of EOs, I just can't in all good conscience use them in wash-off products such as soap. I do use them, but only in leave-on products according to their safe usage rates, which are usually minute amounts.


IrishLass

 

[Rpod]

Also "natural" isn't always better -- some people have allergic reactions to EOs, but not to FOs.

I'm with you!

The other reason is that I only use FOs in my soap is that I personally look at EOs as precious medicines that should be used only very judiciously according to their safe usage rates. Oftentimes, the amount of EO needed in order for the scent to come through and/or last in CP is well over the safe usage rate for that particular EO. Also- when I think of how much plant material is needed to make even small amounts of EOs, I just can't in all good conscience use them in wash-off products such as soap. I do use them, but only in leave-on products according to their safe usage rates, which are usually minute amounts.

That's an interesting take on it, I never would have thought of it that way. Thanks!

 

[Arimara]

Generally speaking, EOs are more expensive than FOs. There are exceptions, mostly the ones named here. Mint, lemongrass and lavender are comparable to FO prices. If you want EOs, it's generally better to order from a place that focuses on them. For example, Camden Grey has much better EO prices than Brambleberry.

I'm also vouching for Camden Grey. Their EOs smell great. You can also get some soaping oils from them, should you feel like trying a more exotic oil. Their prices fro Babassu was great for me.

 

[Seawolfe]

Ill be the outlier - I use almost exclusively EOs because most FO's smell odd and perfumey to me, I've only found a couple that I really like. If you order fairly large bottles of the less expensive EO's and mix your own blends you can come up with lots of options. Off the top of my head you could easily start with 6 EOs: Lavender, Rosemary, Eucalyptus, Litsea or Lemongrass, Patchouli & Peppermint. I usually get mine from Soap Making Resource, but lots of other places work too.

 

[penelopejane]

That's interesting, I did not realize. Is the reason because to get a good scent you need too much of the EO and that makes it expensive, or you need too much that it ruins the recipe somehow?

EOs can be super expensive - $100s per oz.
You generally need a little less EO then FO for a good scent.
Some EOs and some FOs don't stick in soap.
You have to be careful with any additive it might cause higher super fat, it might overheat, it might cause skin reactions, it might accelerate trace, it might slow trace, it might discolour etc!

I get a reaction to some EOs and some FOs.