Ah, I see ... thank you for explaining a bit more -- I appreciate that. You are coming from a lotion making background, and that makes a difference in my answer to you. When you make SOAP, it's important to look at the properties of the SOAP, not the oil from which the soap is made. They can be hugely different, and coconut oil is a prime example of this.
Coconut oil is lovely on the skin and hair, but on the other hand, coconut oil (CO) soap is a very strong, even harsh cleanser. A little CO is good in soap ... a lot is not so good. And that is especially true for soap made for sensitive, injured, or delicate skin.
Most people strive to create soap recipes with a balance between the three basic groups of fats normally used for soap -- (1) fats that make a cleansing soap with large fluffy bubbles (coconut oil, palm kernel oil, etc) with (2) fats that make a soap with dense creamy lather and a long-lived bar (palm (not palm kernel, just palm), lard, tallow, etc) with (3) still more fats that create a mild, gentle soap (olive, avocado, and the other liquid oils).
You are going to see exceptions to this general approach, and some of those exceptions are successful soap too (100% olive oil soap comes to mind). Even so, looking for that happy balance is a good way to get started making good soap.
The names (cleansing, bubbly, etc) for the soap properties in SoapCalc can be a bit misleading. Here is a post I wrote awhile back that you might find helpful:
http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showpost.php?p=383997&postcount=17
Do not expect the color or odor of your tea to survive exposure to lye (sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or both). I know people use tea in their soap, but if you have the opinion that tea provides benefits to the skin (antioxidants, astringent, or whatever), you're better off using it in a leave-on product like your lotion.