Beer soap too many bubbles

[penelopejane]

Thanks for sharing the recipe. Mine was with 63% soft oils because I'm obsessed with moisturising soaps. 50% canola, 21%CO, 10.5% soybean. I think it needs a 15-20% water discount.

If you want a soap that doesn’t make your skin feel dry omit the coconut.

What is 15% water discount?

 

[Nanditasr]

Thanks. Yes, I have made a couple of non-CO soaps -- I don't mind the lack of lather, but my friends do. That's why I try to boost the conditioning by way of soft oils; I don't want to exceed the 5% superfat.

I use SoapCalc for my calculation. In it, there is the default option of "Water as % of Oils". I generally go with this, but I almost always reduce the prescribed water quantity by about 10% -- this is what I meant by water discount. However, with a lot of soft oils, I guess I should reduce it even more, because the soap will then be easier to unmould within 24-36 hours.

 

[DeeAnna]

I harp on this a lot ... here I am harping again -- Using "water as % of oils" to calculate the water weight makes it difficult to have consistent reliable recipes. This setting calculates water based on the fat, which doesn't make any sense from a chemistry point of view. Instead, calculate water based on the alkali (NaOH) by using either lye concentration or water:lye ratio. Then you can ignore this "water discount" and "full water" stuff. You'll have better results.

 

[shunt2011]

Thanks for sharing the recipe. Mine was with 63% soft oils because I'm obsessed with moisturising soaps. 50% canola, 21%CO, 10.5% soybean. I think it needs a 15-20% water discount.
View attachment 29104

I hope you are using HO Canola and soybean. Otherwise, your recipe has DOS written all over it. also, with 21% CO, it may be overly cleansing for many people. I don't mind it myself. Soap does not moisturize. It can not strip all the natural oils off the skin though. I don't use either oils in my soap but some do but at much lower percentages.

 

[Nanditasr]

I hope you are using HO Canola and soybean. Otherwise, your recipe has DOS written all over it. also, with 21% CO, it may be overly cleansing for many people. I don't mind it myself. Soap does not moisturize. It can not strip all the natural oils off the skin though. I don't use either oils in my soap but some do but at much lower percentages.

Nope, I'm using regular canola. The recipe was inspired by this one: http://lizardladysoapinfo.blogspot.in/2014/06/so-you-want-to-make-bar-of-shampoo.html.
I put it badly; when I said moisturising, I meant "not drying". I find the 100% CO soap with 10% SF too drying for me.

 

[shunt2011]

Then you will likely find this too drying as well. I do 100% with a 20% SF and it's great. I would watch your soaps for DOS. Both Soybean and Canola are famous for it. There are a lot of very bad recipes out there on the internet.

 

[Nanditasr]

Then you will likely find this too drying as well. I do 100% with a 20% SF and it's great. I would watch your soaps for DOS. Both Soybean and Canola are famous for it. There are a lot of very bad recipes out there on the internet.

Oops! Anyway, in the worst case, I guess I'll have to convert it to some kind of laundry soap. Or I'll gift them away quickly and tell people to use them up soon!

 

[shunt2011]

Oops! Anyway, in the worst case, I guess I'll have to convert it to some kind of laundry soap. Or I'll gift them away quickly and tell people to use them up soon!

Would not make good laundry soap. Too high SF and not enough Coconut.

 

[Nanditasr]

Would not make good laundry soap. Too high SF and not enough Coconut.

Would not make good laundry soap because of high SF, I agree. But because of low CO? I hear that many people successfully make a 100% lard or tallow soap for laundry?
BTW, I checked -- I made a soleseife with 20% CO and 80% soft oils a month ago -- no DOS there, but that may be because of the preservative properties of salt. Shall keep an eye on this beer soap batch -- if no DOS in three more weeks, I have an occasion to gift it all away (which is what I anyway do).

 

[shunt2011]

Using lard/Tallow or CO are totally different than using soybean or canola. Also, DOS can take time to show up. You are free to do with them as you like. It's just a warning that it may happen. Especially if not stored properly. Those two particular oils are the most prone if not HO. So, I would just make whomever you give them to aware that it could happen.

 

[Nanditasr]

Using lard/Tallow or CO are totally different than using soybean or canola. Also, DOS can take time to show up. ... So, I would just make whomever you give them to aware that it could happen.

Thanks; I'll bear that in mind and keep checking (and warn the recipients). I'm planning to give it to some 40 participants at a workshop I'm attending (the workshop has nothing to do with soapmaking).
BTW, do spots of DOS (not the entire bar being afflicted by DOS) smell or feel bad, or can they cause breakouts? Say, I give the month-old soap with just tiny specks of DOS. If they use it within 2-4 weeks of that, will it be unpleasant in any way to use?
If not unpleasant, I can just ask them to use it soon. If it may be repulsive in any way, I'd better make a new batch today!

 

[shunt2011]

It can encompass just spots or much of the bar. It does get a bit sticky and a rancid smell. I've only had DOS twice and it appeared at about 6 weeks to 4 months or so. If it shows any DOS I wouldn't give it to anyone. I tossed mine.

 

[Nanditasr]

It can encompass just spots or much of the bar. It does get a bit sticky and a rancid smell. I've only had DOS twice and it appeared at about 6 weeks to 4 months or so. If it shows any DOS I wouldn't give it to anyone. I tossed mine.

Thanks. Maybe I should make a standby batch. My soap is light ochre in colour, so I probably will not even be able to detect DOS on it.