Bar Mold Vs Loaf Tell me your Pros and Cons. Help me Decide on A Bar Mold

[zolveria]

THanks for the measurements

I was not looking for oval mold.
Just one slab mold that can do it all. I have several molds. and after it a while it becomes cumbersome. :wink: But i love the measurement IrishLass.

I can take those to home depot. I was looking into the PVC however i like to CPOP my soap at 175 degrees so I have to normally use Silicone or my Wood Mold in the oven.

 

[skayc1]

from watching videos online, I decided that I liked the loaf better than the bars, the design shows better in the loaf molds, although I'm so wanting a slab mold to try this new swirl i saw in a video, where the colors were poured in layers in each corner, then the slab was twisted back & fourth to 'swirl' the colors.

 

[TwystedPryncess]

For CPOP--My oven only goes to 170 and I find I often have to take the soap out after 45 minutes or risk the tiny bubbles. How do you successfully CPOP at 175?

I also have some recipes that just--do--not--like--to be CPOP'd. They misbehave. I've heard any recipe can be CPOP's but that's not been my experience. They will sometimes come out 'okay' but again- these recipes overheat easy, and they are still pretty basic recipes.

I agree with everyone that a plethora of molds is always the best thing, and on top of that you will develop a style of your own. Some people prefer wood molds, you seem to prefer oval. Some prefer silicone. Go with what you prefer and stock up on THAT kind of mold, but have all of them eventually. Me? I seem to prefer small wooden molds right now. I like to make a lot of 2 and 3 pound batches as opposed to one 10-lb batch. Maybe I am soap ADD at the moment.

Each mold can offer a different technique as others have said. And for ANY mold, there is a sticky in, I think, it is the CP forum that gives a mathematical formula that teaches you how to calculate how much batter you will need to properly fill ANY of your molds--square, round, oval, crazy.

I love that post and I use the formula with the molds my BF made for me. It also helped with the wooden molds that I bought from E-bay, and it helped me figure out that those '4 lb molds' weren't 4 lb molds, but were short. the 4 lb. molds my BF made ARE 4 lb molds, and that formula helped us correctly make the molds. :clap:

 

[shunt2011]

I agree with a selection. I have many molds but have my favorites too. Some I use once in awhile others frequently. I have a couple molds that can be used as a slab or can be cut into loafs. It just depends on the mood sometimes.

 

[LBussy]

The actual inside dimensions ...

Is the 2.5" high "optimal?"

I ask because I've not really thought that the molds I have are intended to be filled as that makes a bar that's too tall, so is there a level you strive for with a bar which is intended to create a single "layer" of soap?

I don't recall ever seeing a "right size" for a bar, being told rather that "it's your soap, do what you like!" There has to be considerations for it that I don't know yet, and I'd prefer if I am going to make molds that I learn from those who came before me, rather than having to learn everything the hard way.

Last question (for this post): How do you split a slab into bars which are then cut into individual soaps?

 

[IrishLass]

Is the 2.5" high "optimal?"

I ask because I've not really thought that the molds I have are intended to be filled as that makes a bar that's too tall, so is there a level you strive for with a bar which is intended to create a single "layer" of soap?

Hi Lee!

2.5" is a very nice height for me for when my mold is in 'log mode'. I fill it up all the way to the top, and it gives me fully cured bars that fits nicely in everyone's hand (not to big/not too small, but just right).

When it is in 'slab mode', I can choose to 1) fill it up all the way to the top in order to make a double layer, which essentially takes a 4.6 lbs. batch (based on oil amount using a 33% lye solution), giving me a total of 18 bars of soap with the dimensions of 2.5" x 3 5/16" x 1.25" thick at cutting time, or....

2) I can fill the slab up only part way for a single layer, which makes 9 bars @ 2.5" x 3 5/16" x whatever thickness that strikes my fancy. My favorite thickness is 1.25", which happens to take a 2.3 lb. batch of oils @ 33% lye solution, but sometimes I fill it up a little more to get about a 1.5" thickness, which takes a 2.8 lbs. batch of oils @ 33% lye solution. I really love having the option to vary my slab thickness this way.

My other mold of this type that I bought from Dianna's Sugar Plum Sundries has all the same dimensions as the above, but the height of it is 3.5" instead of 2.5", which comes in handy for those times I want to make a double-layer batch of 18 bars in slab mode that are thicker than 1.25"; or for when I'm making log-type soaps with those high, textured tops, which I actually don't really do all that often, but it's still nice to have that option just in case. I can do log soaps of that nature in my other mold, too, only I have to adjust the height of my cover like I explained in my earlier post. With Dianna's mold, I don't have to adjust my cover's height.

Last question (for this post): How do you split a slab into bars which are then cut into individual soaps?

Ancient Irish secret! ha ha ha.

Okay, not really- this is what I do: Once my slab of soap is removed and the liners peeled away, I set the soap on my counter flat/horizontally with the longest (10") side facing towards me. Then I take my ruler and divide my 10" slab of soap into 3rds, making my notches on both the nearest-to-me-side and the farthest-from-me-side of the slab so that I can line my long kitchen knife up in the notches to slice down evenly.

Once that is done, I'm left with 3 columns of soap. Working with one column at a time, I set the column down on my counter flat/horizontally with (again) the longest side facing towards me. Then, using my ruler, I divide it into 3rds, making notches and cutting the same as I did above. Voila- 3 perfect bars of soap. Well, almost perfect- they haven't been beveled yet. Then I do the same to the other 2 columns, which gives me 9 bars total (which I then bevel).

When I make a double-layer slab, I do the exact same as above, which initially leaves me with 9 really thick bars of soap that I further cut in half horizontally to give me a total of 18 bars.

HTH!
IrishLass

 

[LBussy]

The actual inside dimensions of the total soap-pouring area

Okay I think I have it. I spent a few minutes (okay a few more than a few) modeling this. Let me know if I am correct?

Slab mode:

Bar Mode:

Bar Cuts:

Slab Cuts:

And if I understand you correctly, I could make a 3-1/2" high version of this, do all that you do with the other, and not have to prop up the lid? Any drawback to that plan?

 

[kchaystack]

Okay I think I have it. I spent a few minutes (okay a few more than a few) modeling this. Let me know if I am correct?

One thing I found when I was doing my spin swirl, I wanted the mold to be taller than 2x my individual bar height to account for any sloshing around while moving the soap. While this is more important when you spin the mold, it would help with even normal designs, at least to me

 

[IrishLass]

Wow, Lee! Impressive! I had hubby double-check your drawings against my mold's measurements, and he gives you 2 thumbs up.

As an aside, when in log-mode, I can get 8 perfect bars of soap with a 1.25" thickness (or sixteen 1.25" thick bars if fill both logs up).

And if I understand you correctly, I could make a 3-1/2" high version of this, do all that you do with the other, and not have to prop up the lid? Any drawback to that plan?

The only drawback with the taller mold that I've experienced (which is probably just peculiar to me and my preferred soaping methods) happens when I am in log mode. To explain, I rarely make log soap with textured tops (I mostly prefer having squared edges all around), and I like how the shorter 2.5" tall mold gives me the ability to pour my batches of thicker-traced batter all the way to the top so that I can then level it off with the straight edge of a knife or cake spatula to give my log soaps a perfectly flat and even top. I can't do that to my log soap in the taller mold because I don't like to pour my logs in that one all the way to the top. So, the best I can do is jiggle and bang the mold to get the top as even as I can, and then plane off any uneven-ness later if need be.

Be that as it may, though, the extra inch is still nice to have in that it allows one to have a few more handy options up their sleeve to choose from should the fancy ever strike. Besides the option of having the ability of making textured tops in log-mode without having to adjust the cover up, one also has the option of being able to have thicker bars when making a double-layer of soap in slab mode.

IrishLass

 

[LBussy]

Wow, Lee! Impressive! I had hubby double-check your drawings against my mold's measurements, and he gives you 2 thumbs up.

I had wanted to learn this tool so this was my excuse to do so. It's sort of fun to be able to "cut" up wood with abandon, although if you figure the cost of my time it's still cheaper to buy the wood.

The only drawback with the taller mold that I've experienced [...]

I'd wondered if that was not the case. I can see where a person might make a small "screed board" to drop down into it, but that may work better in my head than in reality. It also might be a good application for a "shaker table" which we'd discussed previously. A good vibration would allow soap to level out pretty quickly and also raise any entrained bubbles.

Hrm ....

 

[nebetmiw]

BTW BB has on sale the Oval silicon mold right now.

 

[LBussy]

As an aside, when in log-mode, I can get 8 perfect bars of soap with a 1.25" thickness (or sixteen 1.25" thick bars if fill both logs up).

I gave some more thought to this while drinking coffee this morning. It struck me that the design you shared results in bars that are not 3.5" wide if you use it in slab mode. As I said I monkeyed around a bit with a design and I used the following assumptions for a stab at a "universal" mold:

1. 3.5" wide is very common and might be considered a standard for design purposes
2. 2.5" high is very common and might be considered a standard for design purposes
3. A cover is a good thing to aid gelling
4. The cover should allow fancy tops which may be > 2.5" high
5. A bar of ~10" long seems more optimal for handling.
6. Having a slab mold allows one to make designs (such as swirls) not created as easily in logs.
7. Removable sides are better than non-removable

Do those seem a reasonable place to start? Are there any cases where those would prevent me from doing something one might consider essential? If those are reasonable then I came up with the following design - I'd love it if someone wanted to poke holes in it. Here's how it looks in "loaf" mode:

And here it is in "slab" mode:

It would use some small fillers to even out the slots where the dividers went.

('scuse the watermarks, I didn't notice I had that turned on till after I rendered the pics)

It has a lid, and it fits flush since the sides are 3.5" deep:

And instead of having pins and hinges, I thought it would be easier if two sides were fixed and the other two just slid in - no tools or hardware:

10.5" x 12" seems odd, but you need at least 10.5" one way to allow for three 3.5" logs being sectioned out. You need 12" the other way to allow for the dividers (1.5" total) and then three logs 3.5" wide. If you went down to two bars you could do 7.75" x 7" but that would leave you pretty short bars and I thought that would be less optimal - given the work to make the mold and/or soap is not that much greater for longer bars.

I dunno, at least that's how I got here. Am I way off base?

 

[TwystedPryncess]

I want one, regardless of what anyone else thinks.

 

[snappyllama]

That's pretty awesome, Lee. The only thing other thing I could want in a mold is a Tall/Skinny section.... maybe increasing the overall height to accommodate it and making one loaf more narrow. Oh, and dividers for when it is a slab mold. I LOVE those on my BB slab mold. As is though, I'd buy one if I was interested in making bigger batches.

 

[LBussy]

That's pretty awesome, Lee. The only thing other thing I could want in a mold is a Tall/Skinny section.... maybe increasing the overall height to accommodate it and making one loaf more narrow.

What's tall and skinny to you? These are 3.5" high x 3.5" wide. Guess I've not wanted a tall and skinny soap - or I'm not following. Either is possible.

Oh, and dividers for when it is a slab mold. I LOVE those on my BB slab mold. As is though, I'd buy one if I was interested in making bigger batches.

You mean those plastic ones? I'd read that dividers don't last in the long run, and I also figured to make a loaf splitter. Or again, I may be missing something.

 

[commoncenz]

Heck Lee, let us know when we can begin ordering!

 

[LBussy]

Heck Lee, let us know when we can begin ordering!

I would not be adverse to the idea of making more than one (if that's within forum rules) but I'm a few weeks away from being able to do so. I spent a few hours cleaning out the shop today, I have some more to do yet AND I'm going on vacation soon. Yay me! Almost two full weeks of beach house time!

 

[snappyllama]

I like the dividers like this: http://www.brambleberry.com/9-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5169.aspx I put them in after the soap is in the mold... it drags down the top design onto the sides which I think is a nice effect. It also makes un-molding salt bars incredibly easy.

The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies. It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high. So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner. If you're planning on making these molds to sell, you might consider a T&S version that would make fewer bars in a slab... since the base needed would be smaller. I think the trick there is to cut your wooden loaf dividers to a thickness that the slab is completely usable when cut into rows of standard size bars. If that makes sense...

 

[reinbeau]

The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies. It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high. So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner. If you're planning on making these molds to sell, you might consider a T&S version that would make fewer bars in a slab... since the base needed would be smaller. I think the trick there is to cut your wooden loaf dividers to a thickness that the slab is completely usable when cut into rows of standard size bars. If that makes sense...

Or it could have four sections of 'tall skinny'.

My problem with the design is when it's in slab mold, those 'inserts' might make a leaky mess and never be able to be removed. In slab mold it would have to be lined - and at that point, in slab mold, go for a silicone liner perhaps??

 

[LBussy]

I like the dividers like this: http://www.brambleberry.com/9-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5169.aspx I put them in after the soap is in the mold... it drags down the top design onto the sides which I think is a nice effect. It also makes un-molding salt bars incredibly easy.

Those dividers are UHMW and I have my doubts about their long-term viability. How long have you used yours?

The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies. It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high. So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner.

Isn't that basically making bars sideways?

My problem with the design is when it's in slab mold, those 'inserts' might make a leaky mess and never be able to be removed. In slab mold it would have to be lined - and at that point, in slab mold, go for a silicone liner perhaps??

Would you ever use a wooden mold without lining it? Not really following there. I feel pretty good about the inserts being correctly sized so there's no "divots" and even if you got some soap on them, you could pop the end with a kitchen knife. Both ends would be accessible on all of them because of the dado (groove).