Aloe gel

[ElaineJones]

I am still fairly new to soapmaking, but I learn something new with each batch. In my last 2 batches I used aloe vera gel (bottled and cold) in place of water. Both are curing now, so I'm waiting to see how they turned out.

So I'm just curious how you experienced soapmakers feel about using the aloe. Does it really make a difference in the final product? Is it responsible for the yellowish color? How about the holes? Does it change the curing time?

Thanks in advance.

 

[lsg]

I like to include aloe juice in some of my soap and have even pureed an aloe leaf to add to the soap.

 

[earlene]

I am still fairly new to soapmaking, but I learn something new with each batch. In my last 2 batches I used aloe vera gel (bottled and cold) in place of water. Both are curing now, so I'm waiting to see how they turned out.

So I'm just curious how you experienced soapmakers feel about using the aloe. Does it really make a difference in the final product? Is it responsible for the yellowish color? How about the holes? Does it change the curing time?

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 31528View attachment 31529

Aloe juice won't affect the curing time and in my experience does not produce bubbles any more than any other liquid. Bubbles are a by-product of one's stick blending method. Unless you mean the holes in the soap, and that's a by-product of pouring the soap batter while it is very thick. As for contributing a yellow hue to the soap, I don't recall that it did when I used it regularly, although perhaps it could and I just didn't really notice.

To prevent bubbles while stick blending, be sure to 'burp' the SB bell under the bottom of the oils before you turn it on. One way to do that is to tilt the bell to the side as you slowly slide it under the surface of the oils/batter to allow for any air to release before you turn it on. Also avoid stick blending excessively or vigorously as that can also increase bubbles. You don't want your soap batter looking like the tops of pancakes when they are ready to turn over.

To avoid large holes or air pockets in your soap, mix your soap to a lighter trace and pour sooner. To avoid getting to a thick trace, be sparing with your use of the SB. A couple of pulses of the SB, then just stir with it turned off, will get you where you want to go with your batter and give you more time for coloring and swirling. If you mix real thick, you end up scooping and plopping the batter into the mold and that creates air pockets.

You can tap or pound the mold on the counter top to help remove some air bubbles or settle some of the batter into those air pockets, but it doesn't always get rid of them all, and can require some vigorous and noisy 'tapping' of the mold and you do run the risk of spash back, even with very thick soap.