Adding water to HP mashed potatoes so it pours into my mold ?

[Gaspar Navarrete]

[newbie] Adding water to HP mashed potatoes so it pours into my mold ?

Hello everyone,

After my hot-process castile soap gelled, the soap had the texture and viscocity of mashed potatoes. I could not pour it into the mold, I had to scoop it out and mash it down into my mold.

Next time when I get the mashed potatoes again, can I pour some distilled water on it to make the batter thinner so I can pour it instead of scoop it ?

I imagine this will extend the curing time :neutral:

Thanks

 

[lsg]

I wouldn't add too much water or you will have mush. Some people add sodium lactate to their HP to make a smoother pour.

 

[Obsidian]

HP is supposed to have that consistency. If you use too much water, not only will it take longer to dry but your bars can warp or shrink. 2% sodium lactate will make it a bit more fluid but it will still have to be glopped into the mold.
If you want pourable soap, you should try CP.

 

[Gaspar Navarrete]

How much water can I put in roughly ? (as a percent of total weight)

The reason why I ask is that the top of my castile soap loaf looked uneven and also looked like compacted mashed potatoes. I was hoping to make HP bars that were smooth on all sides.

 

[Susie]

You are simply not going to get smooth HP bars. It is the nature of the beast. If you want smooth tops, you need to do CP. If you feel you simply must rush gel, do CPOP. But there is not much benefit to it, as you still have to cure the soap.

 

[AustinStraight]

Unfortunately, you'll never get smooth HP bars... I like to line my mold with parchment paper and push the parchment paper down onto the top of the mold to flatten it a bit, but it still has a slightly bumpy look to it. If you want really smooth bars with minimal trimming, you'll have to do cold process and pour your soap into the mold at a light trace (when it's almost like gravy).

 

[soap_rat]

It's worth getting the sodium lactate, it makes an amazing difference. I have read that other people add some sugar and that helps with fluidity. I don't know the amount, I would just google something like "HP soap fluid sugar site:soapmakingforum.com"

also, check out this thread, especially page two with the photo:
http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=41504

 

[MagicalMysterySoap]

My hp soaps turn out really smooth and this is what I do to help. My water and lye ratio is 3:1. I also set the crock pot on low and let it cook 1/3 of the way and then turn it off. The rest of the heat will cook it. I never stir it till the very end when I add my superfat and eos/fos.

 

[Obsidian]

I've added a extra ounce or two of water if it seems like the HP is too thick or dry but the sodium lactate is what really helped. My HP is usually fairly smooth except for the tops. I do really prefer to CPOP my soap now though, much easier then HP and my bars look better.

 

[Gaspar Navarrete]

Okay, looks like CP is the way to go if I want smooth bars.

What about adding a superfatting oil after the HP cook ? When the batter is like mashed potatoes, isn't it hard to thoroughly mix in a superfatting oil with a stick-blender or with a spatula ? If the oil isn't thoroughly mixed and uniformly distributed throughout the batter, you might have some caustic pockets in your soap. CP seems to be the better choice for superfatting as well.

I have so much to learn about soapmaking ...:Kitten Love:

 

[FlybyStardancer]

You'd be surprised how well things can get mixed in to HP soap batter! Especially if you're adding superfat, and then FO/EO. I wouldn't use a stick blender, though. The stuff's too thick.

 

[Obsidian]

Actually, HP is the way to go if you want a certain oil/butter for superfat. If you aren't concerned with what oil remains for SF, then CP works just fine. I do CP with a SF of 8%, sometimes higher since I have such dry skin.
If you don't get the SF oil mixed into the HP, you will just have oily spots. You don't add the SF until after the cook and by then, the lye is all used up so you can't have caustic spots.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Adding an oil after the cook - you should have a slight SF worked in to the soap before adding the extra oil, just to be safe so there are no caustic areas even before you add the specific super fat. As it is liquid, it will mix in really well you'll find. Spatula is fine, no need to blend it again.

Smooth HP tops - now there is a goal. I get all sorts of wierd shapes on the top of mine, I have to say. Must try harder - but I like the idea of using paper to help smooth it down.

 

[Tienne]

I've only ever made one HP (but several rebatches) and to get the top flat, after moulding, I cover the top with some glad wrap and then I smooth down the soap through that as much as I can with a spatula. I use SL in all my soaps and the tops come out pretty flat and smooth that way. (Not flat enough to my liking, but better than chunky.) Since then, I have had made a piece of wood that fits exactly inside the mould with a little handle on top, so that next time I have to rebatch (HP is not my cup of tea), I can use that "lid" to push the soap down evenly on the whole surface to get it even flatter, still with some glad wrap in between of course.

Here's the one and only HP I have ever made. It's beveled, but not planed or trimmed in any way. (The white attempt at marbling is just some TD oil I mixed in just prior to moulding.)

 

[MagicalMysterySoap]

I've only ever made one HP (but several rebatches) and to get the top flat, after moulding, I cover the top with some glad wrap and then I smooth down the soap through that as much as I can with a spatula. I use SL in all my soaps and the tops come out pretty flat and smooth that way. (Not flat enough to my liking, but better than chunky.) Since then, I have had made a piece of wood that fits exactly inside the mould with a little handle on top, so that next time I have to rebatch (HP is not my cup of tea), I can use that "lid" to push the soap down evenly on the whole surface to get it even flatter, still with some glad wrap in between of course.

Here's the one and only HP I have ever made. It's beveled, but not planed or trimmed in any way. (The white attempt at marbling is just some TD oil I mixed in just prior to moulding.)

Your hp soap turned out really pretty

For people not liking the bumpy tops another solution is to cut it off or get a vertical soap mold like Pringles can, pic pipe, downspouts, or buy BB's vertical soap mold (or make one yourself if you know how).

 

[Tienne]

Oh, thank you for saying that, MagicalMysterySoap, but I think it's a little "meh". It IS fairly flat and smooth though. SL and glad wrap are really helpful.

 

[dixiedragon]

I am by no means an HP expert (I've only made 3 HP batches). What I do is raise my water from 38% to 40% in soap cal. It makes the soap a bit more fluid, more like applesauce than mashed potatoes. after I glop it in the mold, I use my silicone spatula to smooth the top. It doesn't have that perfect smoothness that CP can have when you pour, but it's also not chunky and rough.

I've never used sodium lactate, but I plan to try it someday.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

...........I've never used sodium lactate, but I plan to try it someday.

it changes it a lot! Makes it look and feel so odd compared to non-SL HP

 

[jenfrat]

I used to use a piece of cardboard wrapped in freezer paper to flatten my tops when I did CPHP.

 

[Gaspar Navarrete]

Why not just add an extra pint or cup or so of water to the mix ? Is the possible warping or shrinking of the bars, the principal reason why we have to wait for the mixture to have a certain thickness (ie come to trace) before we can start cooking it (or molding it, in the case of CP). Couldn't we just cook a liquid ?

What I do is raise my water from 38% to 40% in soap cal

I assume that means just adding 2% more water by weight to your mix, dixiedragon.

Adding an oil after the cook - you should have a slight SF worked in to the soap before adding the extra oil, just to be safe

Efficacious Gentleman, I assume that means that you do a lye discount at the beginning of the process, AND you do a % superfat as well at the end ? An interesting idea.