help me tweak my lotion recipe?

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I have a lotion recipe that is ok but I feel it needs a bit of tweaking. It always seems too waxy. I want it thick but slicker if that makes any sense.

Wate 61.31%
Stearic Acid 2.45%
E-Wax 4.6%
Oils/butters 30.66%
Germban II E .98%





I'm also trying optiphen at 1% instead of the germban and want to add in arrowroot powder.
 
I use a little more water and a little less oils/butters in mine...but I also like to add some sodium lactate to the water phase, and some cyclomethicone and dimethicone in the cool down...they add to the "glide"...might be what you're looking for.
 
You are basically making a body butter with only 61% water. That is going to be a thick, heavy product. The relatively low water content, perhaps coupled with a high % of butters (I'm guessing here), and using stearic acid as the thickener -- makes sense the result is somewhat heavy and waxy.

I'd reduce your oils and butter % so you have 65 to 70% water to lighten the texture. That will increase the glidy-ness right off the bat.

If you are using a lot of butters in the recipe, try changing the proportions of oils & butters so you have less butter and more oil.

Also look at the types of oils and butters in your recipe. Cocoa butter, for example, will add to the thickness of the product and increase the draggy skin feel. Babassu will make the texture glidy-er by comparison. Olive oil or castor is heavy and somewhat sticky; meadowfoam or jojoba will be lighter and smoother.

Stearic acid as a thickener tends to make a lotion feel more waxy -- more like cream cheese. Cetyl alcohol would give a lighter texture, more like sour cream. I wouldn't go out and buy cetyl if you don't have it; I suspect you can change the water content and tweak the oils and butters to get a nicer skin feel and still use the stearic.

Somewhat unrelated, but something to keep in mind -- My rule of thumb is to make the emulsifier about 25% of the oil phase ingredients as a first try, so this recipe could use more like 8% e-wax, not 4.6%. That said, sometimes a lower % of emulsifier works okay. If the product breaks emulsion, you'll have your answer.
 
The germban II E is for formulas that are at least 30% oils, thats why I got a different type of preservative in the hopes I can make a somewhat lighter cream.
I don't actually use much butters, I prefer to save those for my whipped body butters. I use lighter oils like avocado, almond, coconut and sunflower.
I tried using 25% e wax once, it turned into paste. I've been using 4.6% for a few months now and have never had separation. Maybe the steric has something to do with it. I would love to try cetyl alcohol but I can't find any place that sells it.

Does this look better?

water 70%
e-wax 5%
steric 2%
oils/butter 22%
preservative 1%
 
I'm not a lotion expert and someone may having a different opinion, but I really like adding glycerin to my lotions for that thick, rich, creamy, and non-waxy texture it gives my lotions. I don't need to use a lot to do the job.
Cheers!
Anna Marie
 
I'm pretty new to this too, but I add glycerine also and on my last batch I added Dimethicone at 1% and it was my best batch yet! I wrote my recipe down and now I can't find it. When I do, I'll share it if you'd like :)
 
I've been tweaking recipes from Swift crafty's blog for the ingredients I already have or could get my hands on...so this is the one I love best so far: ( dimethicone is 2% and I thought it really helped with that glide and smooth feeling I wanted)

67% water
3% glycerin
13% oils
5 % butter
3 % stearic acid
5 % ewax
1% fragrance
1% preservative
2% dimethicone

My recipe:

Water phase
13.4oz distilled water
.6oz glycerin

Oil phase
1.3oz Rice bran oil
1.3oz Almond oil
1oz Shea butter
.6 oz stearic acid
1oz ewax

Cool down
.2oz fragrance
.2oz preservative (I used germall plus)
.4oz Dimethicone

I usually use an electric hand mixer, but I still wasn't getting that really silky texture so when I added the cool down ingredients, I used my stick blender to mix and I think it really helped make it extra creamy. It's been 3 weeks and the lotion is still as smooth as when it was brand new.
 
My daughter came over today and I helped her make a batch using your recipe and OMG, its wonderful. Its so much slicker then what I usually make but still nice and thick. I'll have to make a batch for myself now, I can't thank you enough for sharing:)
 
no more than 2 % gliceryn into water phase, switch the stearic acid to cetyl alcohol for the glide. I would use less butters because they are occluding.
Stearic acid has a dry feeling on skin.....Dimethicone at 1% thats right. Instead of gliceryne I use sodium lactate or panthenol , I hope I did not mess up with names, if I did forgive me, English is my second language. I already made at least twenty lotions and body butters. Everytime I tweak it to get different results. Lot of fun :razz: I never thought that in the Fall of my life I will make my own cosmetics and soaps. Fun, fun.... newbie in soaps though:)
To every lotion or body butter I add oat protein:)
 
My daughter came over today and I helped her make a batch using your recipe and OMG, its wonderful. Its so much slicker then what I usually make but still nice and thick. I'll have to make a batch for myself now, I can't thank you enough for sharing:)


Yay!!! That makes me happy! I was very pleased with it too! Big thanks to SwiftCraftyMonkey.. She's taught me so much :)
 
I add glycerin to my oils. It makes up 7% of my oils. It's a Shea butter cream, and I've been really pleased with the addition of glycerin.
Cheers!
Anna Marie
 
You can get cetyl alcohol here:

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Cetyl-Alcohol-p28.html

Or here:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AUC0EL8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
(With free shipping for prime members)

Or here:
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/cetyl-alcohol-nf.html


But what I like even better is an emulsifier combo of BTMS and cetearyl alcohol. I also use a very low percent of IPM. I make mine fairly thick, like a cream, but still squeezable in a tube. Even that thick, it's not waxy feeling. It's very silky. Feels verrry nice!



Lotioncrafter and makingcosmetics both have their own versions. I like the makingcosmetics version better, higher percent of BTMS in the mix...
 
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