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I see. I thought that it would accurately represent the actual values and not averages, since the analysis is done for each batch, presumably in a way that ensures stable results? For example if you would please take a look at the attached file (pdf) for an old (2014) certificate of analysis...

...back to the original point... I was pondering about actual sap values of oils, and I've now read on how to do it from Dunn. BUT! I never stopped to consider that I might not have to :think:. Usually its expressed on a certain range, for example 185 - 195 for apricot kernel oil. But if...

Just thought I'd throw it out there, not really sure if it makes any difference or not, more of a technicallity I guess. But if Dunn is right, then we are wrong: When it comes to liquid soap, the reaction between potassium hydroxide and citric acid doesn't technically yield potassium citrate...

Not sure if this is a typo or not, but sequestering is done AFTER dilution, you mention doing it BEFORE dilution. The function of it is to have non-soapy parts settle to the bottom or rise up, so the soap can be siphoned/decanted away from them. As for the oily part; I get it frequently on a...

I applied the huge tolerance "manually/in theory/post-test", after having done 2 tests getting similar results, to account for the crappy scale I used. The actual results were relatively tight, calculated at 73% and 78% respectively. Sadly with that battered old kitchen scale, that is about as...

Will do that! Proof is in the pudin'. Supplier says 90.9% KOH purity, I measured 65-85% with the CA test. Yes, the margin is huge, I'm not gonna pretend my current crappy scale is even close to accurate, but it's somewhere in that range. Actual measurement was 73.01%, but as I said I don't...

Notice: Don't pay too much attention to the butchering of chemistry terms and procedures I'm (probably) about to do and possibly already did with the title :mrgreen:. I'm more of an alchemist than a chemist :think:. OK, so, I've learned (so far only in theory, but soon to be tested on my...

Not saying this because he can't fight his own "battles", saying this because there seems to be a communication malfunction/misunderstanding between you two. As I understand it, he said: "Complete reliance on soap calculators for consistency of product, given the inherent fluctuations of the...

1. Been meaning to get that book for a while for that precise reason, how I wish there was an e-book! 2. Exactly. 3. Thanks, needed a second input on the idea and you are probably right. Nevertheless, I shall obtain that book and learn more.

Not necessarily asking because I want to make it more mild, just to be extra sure people don't get exposed to any excess KOH. Since we're on a Bronner's thread, this is how their label looks like, and I intend to shamelessly steal the bold bit :mrgreen:: Ingredients: bla*, bla* bla*...

How to determine how much acidifier to add in the case of a suspected KOH excess? How do pH strips indicate excess KOH? I guess if I made a certain recipe 10x times, with a pH of 10.5 every single time, and on the 11th time it's 11, I know something is up? I don't see how they can indicate...

That is indeed a find. The reviews are somewhat dodgy at times, know anything about that?

So far my search (online stores from my country) has only yielded the My Weigh 7001dx (at 60€/$65). Nothing else in the sub-100 bucks market that is calibratable, accurate to 1g and holds a half decent amount of weight (search not limited to myweigh). It definetly looks more like a cheapo...

I'll check if Myweigh is available to us EU folks! It's recommendations come from all over the place :D - every US based mushroom cultivator I know of also has one of those, heh.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good quality scale? Budget is always an issue, but reliability is key here (the soap will be for sale soon).

Very little soap in that baby :D. The first oil appears as the 19th ingredient. And yeah, the false advertising is quite profound with this one.

If you also figure out a way of comparing the cleaning efficacy between them, do document it :D. I can't think of a method beyond staining a piece of fabric and soaking/stirring equally...or perhaps intentionally getting your hands greasy with some oil and then testing how well each of them wash...

So in essence you're saying that: 1. Goold ole' fashioned soap produces surfactants. 2. Glycerin "soap" produces emulsifiers. Which are basically the same thing in terms of functionality, but differ chemically. This raises an interesting question... Could one of them, despite using the same...

Generally, if you slowly "creeped up" to the necessary amount of water for dilution, and then slowly creeped up to the ideal salt solution quantity for thickness... ...you can just add the exact same amounts next time, right off the bat, and get very similar results. Some minor deviations are...

Can liberated FFAs be transparent? Or are they always white? I ask because I'm attempting to fix a failed batch (first overly superfatted, then overly KOH-ed, now attempting to neutralize with CA), and I don't have any parameters of determining when to stop adding CA, except for the visible cue...