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Hmmm, well it's full of soap and in the oven right now, so I think it'd make a mess if I turned it over. :) Yes, metal tabs on the bottom, like the original mold. I'll take some pics as soon as I pull it out of the oven...Still has 30 to 45 mins to go.

I cure mine just like regular bars. 6 weeks is my minimum, some feel comfortable at 4 weeks. First time I tested one it was 2 weeks old and I thought I was gonna hate it. It was real drying on the skin. Then it hit 6 weeks and it was great. I've had it described to me as, "At first I thought...

Haha, decided I couldn't wait, well and I wanted to try an experiment with tops and CPOP. yeah, that's it. all scientific, no lack of discipline on my part. :) Making my oatmeal soap in it right now, waiting for the oils to cool.

Haha, glad I could help.

Go to page 6. I built one last weekend. :) Pics and directions are posted. If you make the lengths and bottom at 22.25 inches, it will produce up to the 24lb at a time and should still fit in a regular oven.

Welcome to the forum. The coconut oil is probably what's referred to as 76F. Meaning anything lower than that temperature and the oil is solid. Above that it goes liquid. As long as the organic Coconut you have is pure Coconut oil, sure you can use it.

Yes you can use it in soap. It's a great oil for vitamins and anti oxidants. Long shelf life. And will instill the properties of Palm Oil. Only thing is, like mentioned, it will color your soap a yellow to orange, depending on how much you use.

I'm goofing off today. Sometimes it's nice to be the boss. :) Threw together a Tall and Skinny Mold out of some wood I had in the garage. Maybe it will help with the visual aspect of building one of these.

Look for this brand of Vegetable Shortening, Clover and Blanquita. Says they grown their own palm trees and produce the palm shortening themselves.

Just a thought, but maybe you should take the opposite approach. Flood her with soaps. Give her so many she finally thinks she has to start using them because they're taking up too much room in her bathroom. :)

Far from being an ugly soap Smee. Like Obsidian said, just plane the edges and it'll be a fine looking Lavender soap. I like the subtle color difference from the woad.

and taking pictures.

Ummm, maybe shoot a picture of the ingredients. haha I can't tell from the bottle. I'm thinking they have to sell vegetable shortening in South America. I'm home goofing off today, I'll see what I can find online. Or you could take the lard junkies way out. :) I'm not a unbiased opinion...

haha, no worries, questions are part of what this forum is all about. The type of water shouldn't be causing the problems. My grandma soaped with the worst sulfur water known to mankind. :) Get your new stick blender after a batch and see how it works. If the lye is good, then I'm sticking with...

(We can dance if we want to We can leave your friends behind 'Cause your friends don't dance and if they don't dance Well they're no friends of mine " Men without Hats. hahaha I love that song) music

helping, instead (of) laughing

Yeah, SoapCalc is set up to be New Soaper friendly, keeping the water high. I think there is something going on here, other than just a full water. Now if he was using more than full water, maybe the softness would be caused just by the excess water. But here's the deal, while Craig is right...

When I first started soaping again, SoapCalc was all i used, and I didn't change the defaults for a couple of months. Pretty sure the recipe he posted is using the SoapCalc defaults.Never had a soap that took longer than 24 hours to unmold. Now all I use is SoapMaker3, which defaults to a much...

You're absolutely right about longer cure times, but I'm of the mindset that while learning to soap, experimenting with unknown fragrance, etc. it's better to stick with full water. It gives you a little more play room. Once you start getting the hang of the game, start discounting the water...

possums or spiders, (so)