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I know this is an older thread, but I do a whipped butter with cocoa butter, coconut oil, shea butter, and almond oil. It works very nicely for cloth. Find any whipped butter formula and insert those ingredients. HTH! And seconding no zinc or lanolin on the cloth. Good diapers are too...

Honey contains water. Honey mixed with sugar and exposed to fingers can spoil very quickly. HTH!

I use about 25% cyclo and the rest FCO, Sesame and IPM. Yup, that's the product I buy - I love Lotioncrafter!

I agree to keep this a water-free product. I make a lovely dry oil spray with cyclomethicone, FCO, IPM, and sesame oil. I spray it on damp skin after showering and it leaves me soft with glowy skin but is not greasy. The poly 80 in the bath oil recipe is used as a dispersant, to keep the oils...

Re: Body Butters with potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxi Usually sodium hydroxide in a leave-on product is there as a ph adjuster/stabilizer. I don't know if they serve any other purpose. The whippy texture of the Body Shop Butter comes from the combo of the cyclo, glycerine, and...

You can make another batch and add .3% preservative then combine the batches. That's what I do when I really don't want to toss out a batch!

Shea butter is comprised of fatty acids with different melting points, and it is known to recrystallize during cooling. Quick-cooling really helps with graininess initially, popping your balms into the fridge or freezer as soon as they're poured to prevent the crystals from forming. I use the...

Go for it. I do it all the time when working on a formula. And many people master-batch their lip balm base - make a big batch and then scoop out what they need, melt, and add flavor, etc. HTH!

I second a gentle surfactant-based shampoo bar from Get Lathered or Scenter Squared on Etsy. These are formulated with gentle surfactant blends and lots of goodies that make hair soft and shiny. Please do not use pine tar soap on your hair. Some people do like soap-based shampoo, but pine tar...

I would recommend at least a year of trials, stability testing, and APC/Challenge testing by a professional lab before you consider selling anything. One month isn't nearly enough time to see how a product will perform. I don't even sell 13 years into crafting bath and body because of the...

Natramulse (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) is sensitive to ph. It can exhibit ph drift and can become unstable in an alkaline or overly acidic environment. It is also best used with a water phase stabilizer, such as xanthan gum, and can be sensitive...

E-wax will add some thickness due to the cetearyl alcohol, though you will need cetyl alcohol or stearic acid to achieve more density than e-wax provides. E-wax is usually used at 25% of your oil phase. BTMS will thicken an emulsion considerably, due to the cetyl alcohol it contains, and it's...

Kokum will have a more crumbly texture. Illipe often has a strong soapy smell to it and will be smoother. Kokum will feel more dry to the touch. HTH!

I have worked with SCI extensively and I would suggest not melting it for this purpose. If you are looking for a powder consistency you can pulverize it in a coffee grinder (wear a mask). Melting it is a pain and could lead to a clumpy product. If you were making a bar or liquid I say melt...

I'm coming in a little late, but I make a whipped butter for my little man with shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, and olive and FCO. Very nice and a little tenacious thanks to the cocoa butter. I make him a lotion bar for his little drool-y chin with the same ingredients and beeswax...

Honey is water-soluble, not oil-soluble. Therefore it will leech out of an anhydrous mixture over time. I wonder if the charcoal and clays are what is absorbing the water to keep it suspended? Interesting. It does provide a medium for bacteria, so a preservative could possibly be a...

I think honey can be nice at 3%, but I will say that the only lotion I have ever had turn moldy had 5% honey in it. It went fast and it was well-preserved. I use glycerin and honeyquat instead. But I understand the need to experiment! :)

For oil-in-water emulsions, such as lotions, creams, and most body butters, you want to use Emulsifying Wax. It is a pre-made blend of high and low HLB emulsifiers. A combination of Beeswax and Borax has been used for centuries in water-in-oil emulsions, such as cold creams. The combination...

I love coconut oil in lotion, especially VCO! It lends excellent emollience and barrier protection, with the added bonus of thickening. 50% oil is too much for a lotion. You will need at least 12.5% emulsifier at that rate, and being that you are using solid oils this will most likely make a...

I would use the Natramulse at 8% and remove that amount from either the water or the oils. I prefer it combined with E-Wax NF for stability, but it will work fine on its own at 8%. It will make a thicker, more draggy cream. HTH!