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Thanks. I added the honey to the oils after they melted. Probably 150-ish in temp. That’s why I figured the honey would dissolve. I stick blended the oils as well. Maybe not long enough? I also think I should have combined oil and lye at a cooler temp? More like 80F? Thanks

First attempt at making a honey soap. 1tsp/lb added to the oils after melted using a double boiler. Used a stick blender to incorporate and then combined lye and oils at 90F. All oils were purchased within a few weeks. The fragrance oil is brambleberry Palo Santo &Mahogany. Since it is a honey...

So I guess I’m still a little confused as to water discounting with beer/milk if it’s 100% of the water portion. Can you do it? I know low soaping temps and freezing after pouring keeps the sugars from scalding. So just cover with plastic and all should be well?

So ash only happens during the initial setting up not during curing? I’m on the south east part of the state.

I put the molds in the freezer due to being scared of the sugars.

I made a Guinness beer soap this last weekend and it’s got soda ash. I combined the oils and lye/beer at 85F. The beer was frozen. This was the recipe. Water discounts are supposed to help this? Can you discount 100% beer/milk recipes? Thanks.

I tried using a brambleberry shave soap recipe that is palm oil, coconut oil, olive oil and adding a tablespoon of bentonite clay after trace. I’ve only made a few batches of soap and they turned out good. This batch I mixed to medium trace and then added the bentonite. It accelerated so fast I...

So I tried putting 4.69 ounces of lye in 9.38 ounces of water and it only heated to 168. I assume chuck it then?

Thanks for the reply

I’m new to this soap making. I was going to get into it years ago and bought supplies to do it but never did. I ordered lye from the soap barn I believe. It’s probably been at least 10 years ago. It’s been stored in its original package and in a tote in one of my outbuildings that’s dark and...