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Yes I do too.

Zero or 1% your lye SF amount on the lye calc, but calculate the amount you would want based as usual on the oils amount, so base oils and 5% SF you would weigh that amount out of your chosen SF oil and add after the soap is fully gelled and tests no zap.

It would indeed be far easier to work with in HP as everything would stay at a heat level high enough to keep the BW from solidifying, but it would not change the outcome so if you did not think it made any difference to the final soap that would be the same with HP. I think everybody's idea of...

I like bees wax in some soap recipe's but I have never gone beyond 2%, it does tend to cut the lather down but not at a low percentage. Stearic wax also works very well without the cut in lather but you have the problem of instant saponification which in CP could be a nightmare. I would not use...

I could not agree more! I love Tellervo, clean, clear, simple and relaxing, she actually inspires me where almost all others do not.

It would be good to hear your views on performance of Citric Acid and / or Sodium Gluconate as opposed to EDTA, lather /scum/ DOS etc. when you get around to giving them a go.

I started making soap 21 years ago because the soap I bought from shops whether it was really good expensive stuff or not just made me itch and dry to a point of depression. I found a handmade soap in a department store which I tried and found it so nice to use, no itching! then the journey of...

I like to use Sodium Gluconate as a chelator, I do have Sodium Citrate and both are available online here in the UK as is Citric Acid, but with the first two you dont have to work out how much extra lye to use, its just add your percentage to the lye water and voila! works well as chelators...

I used to do it directly on the stove top but recently started using a bain marie set up, cover top of bowl which is on a saucepan with hot water, saucepan on stove top very low heat as you might for chocolate, and cover soap bowl with plastic film. Walk away and do other things for a short...

Sorry for late reply. I am in the UK and available here from a company, however you may find it on Amazon or Ebay.

Dont forget about Soduim Gluconate as a chelator, I find it far more effective than S. Citrate.

No mine has never re solidified up again, my100% CO does tend to come out more watery than I would like, with some clever tweaking around I have managed to get something agreeable with all KoH but in general not. By adding the NaOH it gives me a nice consistency, and this is only for my own use...

I do like NaOH in my LS but it is very dependant on the oils used, no one size fits all, certain oils LS especially with an appreciable amount of OO just do not need any extra oomph to be a nice consistency after dilution once you get the proportions right, but some do, particularly high or 100%...

IFRA and EU safety assessments are two different things but do kind of cross paths as the safety assessors are guided by IFRA. I think IFRA takes which components in an EO/FO and gives the guide line on its maximum safety level. The EU safety assessment tends to blanket a maximum of 3% on any...

Of course here in the UK we are governed by the safety assessment which usually limits as far as I am aware most EO/FO to a maximum of 3%. But I have noticed a distinct different in the lasting power within HP as opposed to CP. Definitely not too much information, your method makes total sense...

In my experience the aroma does stay a little better in HP than CP, probably something to do with the lye reaction as the EO/FO is coming into contact directly with lye, but I have no idea if there is science behind this theory. But having said that I would never use more than 3% in either process.

Certainly not here in the UK and I doubt in the EU either.

Its really not perfectly skin safe, only recommended at 0.5% maximum. Its can burn like hell and it was withdrawn from pharmacies as a cure for tooth ache when many people seriously burned their gums. Even at low percentages it can irritate the intimate body parts. I LOVE the aroma of clove and...

I dont bevel as I mostly use cavity moulds and I dont sell so not a big deal, but there are occasions when a log would be easier to mould up for certain reasons. When I first saw IrishLass technique I immediately bought one of those Japanese routers from Lees Valley, but can I get it to do what...

I totally echo what DeeAnnna said. And I cant tell you how many pH meters I have lined up to shoot!