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3 in 3 days and now back to normal work lol. I will play with salt next then move to milk... unless I change my mind lol

Thx for the response & info. What I don't like about the cavities is they don't make perfect rectangles. The side bow in or out. Atleast the ones I got from Amazon do that.

Is it normal for the bars to be tacky at 24 when you unmold and bevel? The feeling is like chocolate chips starting to melt in your hand. Had to use paper towel to rub down the potato peeler.

I know I'm supposed to let standard soap cure for 4-6 weeks and 6+ weeks on ZNSC. Is that the amount of time they need to cure before I test or can I test sooner and the final cured soap be similar? (I forgot to add the baking soda to the salt water... hopefully that doesn't mess them up)

Awesome roadmap. I had written them off, but after reading this I'm interested again.

Batch 2 will be unmolded tomorrow afternoon (call it mango sadness) and batch 3 will be unmolded in the next several days. For batch 3 I tried a version of @Zany_in_CO no slime Castile recipe with 85% OO, 10% CO, 5% castor, salt water+lye+sorbitol White mica to lighten the base and then purple...

@Zany_in_CO Do you think this recipe could be used if the salt and baking soda was mixed with fresh goat milk before freezing and then used to make Goat Soap? (Assuming it freezes)

In case anyone here isn't in my other thread. Batch one at 24 hrs

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Batch one at 24 hrs

Lesson from batch 2: Don't do your colors and start swirling and then remember you didn't add your FO yet.

I'm in-between the 2 nap to 1 nap stage. He was supposed to sleep for his second time for 2 hours, but he cut it short at 30min. I had to use his first nap to cut grass. Having a farm and only nap times to do weeks of projects and chores can be daunting yet the moment I run out of stuff to do...

Made first batch yesterday, forgot clear eye protection so opted for sun glasses which kind of made it hard to see lol. Anyways, I turned the stove eye a little too high when melting the oil so I ended up with with 170° oils and lye solution. I put both in the fridge to get them down to 120°...

In the video I'm referring to it wasn't frozen milk with lye like I'm doing, but 50% water in lye and 50% milk in oils. I understand what you are saying I disagree with you. I could just Google some stuff, watch a few videos and go for it. I joined a forum for a reason and it wasn't to have...

goats milk useless in salt bars 6+ months to cure Extra FO 100% salt ....that's just seems like too much to even pursue since my business is selling GMS. What is your purpose for going through that? Are you able to get better roi because less people sell them?

It's been suggested by another in the forum in regards to GMS recipes and in atleast one of Ellen's videos I've watched she used cane sugar in her GMS. I'm just trying to soak in information from various sources.

1oz of FO for 500g of oil puts the Fragrance at 50 according to the calculator

2. I'm starting with individual bar molds for my small batches 3. That makes sense

I read that salt bars use anywhere from 50%-100% of total oil weight so to confirm, you are recommending I use 35% salt? I purchased Ocean Water FO for it which says it accelerates trace slightly. When creating the salt bar recipe I was going for something different, more of a hybrid salt bar...

That is correct, it will be my 5th batch. I'm starting from simple to and getting progressively more difficult with each batch.