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That is exactly what I did. Mix just to emulsion, separate off the cell batter, scent the base and pour it in the slab. Then I colored the cell batter, left it unfragranced and poured the cells. I did not CPOP the cells - but in hindsight I should have. It tool a week for them to harden up...

There are also other fatty acids that are not listed: caproic, caprylic, capric for example.

According to the help page - http://soapcalc.net/info/helptext.asp Fatty Acids The approximate percentage of each fatty acid in the oil.

Follow the method in those threads. Cloudy does not mean unusable. And when you dilute it might clear up in a day or 2 after setting and the particulates settle out.

Ok, first a nit picky thing. Lye is the solution of an alkali and liquid used to make soap. So might have a few drops of lye, but not particles. I know most soapers refer to NaOH and KOH (there are other alkali substances that can be used to make soap - but they are not a commonly seen...

That is an old scam - it was probably some java script or flash code to play the sounds and make you worry. If you are running decent antivirus and malware detection software, then you are fine (and if anyone is not - you shouldn't be on the internet at all). You did not execute any programs...

You are welcome. I agree just pouring the top layer is really cool. It is a fairly easy way of getting an intricate design - especially if you have a fast moving FO. You just pour a base with the naughty FO - not color or anything, and then come back with a smaller batch of scented soap and...

No problem Saponista. Take care of your family first. I think the was a bit ambitious for my first challenge, but I love the technique. It really seems easy to me, I think many of the swirls are much more difficult than this.

If I want a light lotion I do not use stearic acid as my thickener. Even at 3% it makes it too think. I use Cetyl Alcohol as my thickener. You can get is pretty cheap on amazon.

I think you are really overthinking this. A few things to point out - coconut oil soap is really hard. The hardness does not really determine the longevity of a bar - but how soluble the soap is. The lauric and myristic salts formed in CO soap are very soluble. See my comment above and...

It's time! Please post at least one picture of one bar of your entry. Any info you wish to share regarding method, colorants, FO/EO is always appreciated. No comments please, just entries. If you wish to comment, please use the other thread.

I'm not Dixie, but yes, anywhere from 30 - 33% lye is good.

O.o I'm a very fat gay man with short dirty blonde hair and a beard/goatee depending on how lazy I've been about trimming . KC stands for Kansas City, where I lived for almost 20 years and really consider it home. Haystack is a nickname I've had since high school.

Or you can search the forum for dual lye castille

I really like the look of these - much better than adding more plastic to landfills. https://www.sks-bottle.com/-p3-PaperboardLipBalmTubes.html

Here is a post by DeeAnna on how to check and see if your sunflower oil is high oleic or not. You want to use the HO sunflower, not the regular stuff http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showpost.php?p=557399&postcount=5 ETA - Also her post about it from her website...

Have you looked at a lye calculator online? Soapcalc.net or Soapee.com It depends on the oils you use and the amounts of those oils.

You can look at various solid perfume recipes or mix the fo with some fractionated coconut oil.

I love that design. I have seen the YouTube video for them and might try making one soon

Well the V2 has a new bed coating that plastic adheres to well. If you use glass you have to coat it with glue stick or hair spray to get the plastic to stick. Some people have complained about badly warped beds, but I have not had a problem with mine - its just sometimes a glob of plastic...