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I'm not from Turkey, I'm from the US but welcome to the forum!

Welcome! I'm sure it won't be long before you are making beautiful soaps! Remember to take pictures - we love pictures! It can come in handy if you have a problem as well, it is easier sometimes to troubleshoot if we see the soap. Have a great day.

I would agree that the coconut is a bit high for most people and that much butter will not give you maximum lather, also it is much too soon to judge the recipe. Some people like a lot of coconut oil, some can not tolerate it at all. Once it is cured you'll have a much better idea if the soap is...

If it is fat it will make soap. I believe drippings are just the fat that cooked off the meat so you should be good. I would look at it though and make sure it is clean. (no bits mixed in) and if it is a little dirty I'd just render it. Should be a quick process.

If you are going to mix your lye in the sink, you could fill it with about two to four inches of water first. Then after you mix the lye, add some ice cubes around the container to cool it faster.

First thing you are going to want to do is prepare your lye water, so it has time to cool down. If you are nervous,put your pitcher of water in the sink and add your lye. This way if there is any mishap, the spill will be contained and can be rinsed away. As for pouring, it really is not too...

Either do a HP "rebatch" or be prepared to wait a long long time to cure it out. Even then, before using a bar I would cut one in half and do a zap test to the inner most part.

You can use it, just let it cure a bit first. I don't think there is any chance that it is lye heavy, on the contrary, it is probably highly superfatted.

Definitely use picmonkey. Click here : www.picmonkey.com It is free, start by hitting edit and uploading the picture. You will have many options from adding text to cropping to changing bad exposer. Good luck. Oh I don't know if picmonkey prints the pictures for you. But you could save them to...

First thing I would do is look at the agreement you signed. What does it say about refunds? Does it say no refunds, or does it give the guidelines as to when refunds are allowed. This would decide how I would proceed. If it states no refunds will be given, then tread lightly and realize if you...

Just let it sit and cure. It will harded over time. Give it 6 weeks before using. There is a learning curve to anything you try, don't give up. Who knows, after the cure you may love this soap.

The soap is shown in this thread: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=53433

What is the base of the soap? Lard and tallow are hard oils, and should be okay with unmolding after 12 hours or so. If your base is olive or another soft oil, you may have to leave the mold in the fridge or freezer longer before trying to unmold. I've had recipes with a lot of olive oil I could...

Really the only things I could think of is wood is lighter, so if like me you cut a lot of loafs and need to move it often, it is a benefit. However you can't wet wood down without warping, which would be the benefit to metal. Other than that they both work the same way.

There are old ice cube molds that look like that made of plastic. I would check the second hand stores.

If the calculator allows I would put 150.39 if not I would use 150.4

Welcome! You'll find a wealth of information here. From how to formulate your recipes to trying out different techniques and additives. Warning, it becomes very addictive - both the forum and the soap making.

I come up with 150.39 but still wait for DeeAnna, I've been wrong before. Ah I see she replied. I think this is correct then.

Well, I can't give a comparison, I do use the bud cutter. It works great and it is easy to fix the wire if you break one (guilty). Thank goodness he includes one with the order. The bud cutter is fairly light for what it is. I imagine the metal one would be heavier if you need to move it...

Hehe, nah, get some more coffee. Koh is potassium hydroxide and I know you already know that. :grin: