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Here's a video where Kevin Dunn, chemist and author of Scinetific Soap Making, demonstrates that if you add enough acid to soap to make it acidic, it quits being soap.

I've used their sandalwood, ocean breeze, drakar type and apple/maple/bourbon. I'm a hobbyist and i give away the soap fairly quickly after I make it so I can't speak about sticking for 6 months. So far, everyone likes the ocean breeze and the drakar. Some people like the sandalwood. No...

I've had that happen. I believe it's caused by heat in the center of the soap while the top has cooled.. Reducing the water is supposed to help. Also try insulating your soap with a towel. I haven't had a problem since I started doing that.

I like lavender. I make some straight lavender soap that my relatives and friends like. I've just done a batch of lavender/patchouli which seems promising. The one people seem to like the best is lavender/rosemary/peppermint (shamelessly stolen from a post of DeeAnna's). That one isn't too...

I must be the only one that just adds TD to my oils and stick blend it right before I pour the lye but, it works for me.

I can verify the fact that it took a few weeks for my hair to look right after I started using my soap shampoo bars but, it did come around. I had read about an adjustment period somewhere so I wasn't alarmed.

I must admit I haven't tried coloring a whole batch with cocoa. I just do swirls. I've read that it can stain things if you use too much.

Get some tape made for freezer paper. Works for me.

I'm a hobbyist so take this for what it's worth. I do use TD but. not the way most people do. I put about 1/2 teaspoon of the powder in a 32 oz batch of oil and stick blend it in before I put in the lye. That's enough to make it white enough for me. I don't notice any problems with trace...

I'm a man and I get a haircut every couple months. As others have said, you may have problems with this but, I've been using this recipe for about a year.with no problems. 20% Castor 30% CO 5% Jojoba 30% Lard 15% OO 5% superfat Add 5% of oil weight in tea tree oil at trace. In addition, I...

Thanks for the reply. I'm absolutely certain you're right about my mistake. I'm glad to know it's okay.

I made 4 batches of soap last Thursday. I let one of the batches sit at trace for a minute or so while mixed and swirled colors which I do a lot. However, when I poured it in the mold, that batch was much thicker almost chunky on the bottom of the bowl than the top. When I unmolded it and cut...

I'll chime in and say that I've used lye based shampoo bars for over a year. I do rinse thoroughly but, I don't lower the temperature. I also use a vinegar rinse (tbls vinegar, cup of water, 6 drops rosemary EO, 6 drops tea tree oil and 3 drops jojoba oil) that I put on right after I get out...

I've ordered castor oil from them and was happy with the transaction. In the quantities I order, the shipping charges are just too steep on most soap supply sites but, BA isn't too bad. I'd be very interested in scents as well especially more masculine or at least not girly scents.

Being a relatively new hobbyist soap maker, I have about 30 bars that I scented badly. I've thought about salting them out but, really I don't have much use for what I would get out of it. I have a high efficiency washer so it probably wouldn't work for laundry soap. However, I'm wondering if...

I think I've found what I need. I can get knitting canvas on Amazon. For less than 10 bucks I can get enough to cover that hardware cloth.

Thanks for the replies folks. I actually have a rather sad looking bar from my first batch sitting up there that's over a year ago. Though I haven't had the rack that long, it's been up there since I got it. Most soaps get moved off the rack to cardboard boxes after 4 to 6 weeks that might be...

I've been making soap for a little over a year and I'm stil not certain about a few things. I've been putting TD in my oils before I even dump the lye and that works fine. I've already seen opinions that say that waiting for trace to put in your overfat in CP is hooey. I've also seen a few...

I've used parchment paper to line molds for CPOP soap and it worked fine. It should work for M&P. I wouldn't use waxed paper.

As a hobbyist. I make about 2 pound batches. I've been using this one for a while. https://www.amazon.com/OXA-Smart-Powerful-Blender-Speed/dp/B076GW89V9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=OXO+immersion+blender&qid=1561517931&s=gateway&sr=8-3 I've been happy with it. I will say that if you run it...